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What size should my new tank build be? (1 Viewer)

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I’d really love a 120. It’s a perfect tank for me. I’ve had a 105/G which is very close. After this recent 75/G build I hated the height. The 105/G was only 21” tall as well. They were great for getting my hands into the tank, but delivering the flow properly was very difficult. 24” tall is perfect to work in and deliver flow.

I could also work with the 24” tall 90/G cube. I really don’t need length. I just want the 24” depth and 24” height.

Yeah the 21" depth is a little shallow to work with. That extra 3" can make all the difference in flow dynamics and scape options. It sounds like either the 120g or the 90 cube is going to be your best bet. The other question is how large of a sump do you want? With the 90g the sump options are going to be rather limited to about 20" and are all fairly cramped so return pump, heater, and skimmer options will be limited to what would fit in them. One thing I learned with having a smaller sump is how much of a pain in the butt they can be. I have to move the skimmer to swat out the filter sock, the heater is always in the way, and have to hunt to find short thin profile models that will fit. Then there's the return pump section. It is dreadfully tiny, so finding a DC pump large enough for the flow wanted/needed is also challenging and limits what can be used. Having a 48" stand, allows for a much larger sump with more room for equipment. Even though you are going minimalistic, you still want to start off with that you want instead of what will fit, as well as have the option available to add components later if you choose.

If you decide to go with the 90, another option is have a nice custom stand made that is wider and made to support it on one side or in the middle. This would allow for a larger sump vastly increasing equipment options, and a place to display other stuff if you choose.
 
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What about a 180

I broke the last one I had. They are nice tanks, but at this stage in my life it’s a little too much for my budget.

The bigger the tank, the more lights, bigger skimmer, more salt, bigger reactor, more media for everything, more apex outlets needed, more heaters, more sand, bigger RO/DI unit, bigger top off reservoir, and the list goes on and on. You can see how it really does get more expensive the bigger you go.
 
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Yeah the 21" depth is a little shallow to work with. That extra 3" can make all the difference in flow dynamics and scape options. It sounds like either the 120g or the 90 cube is going to be your best bet. The other question is how large of a sump do you want? With the 90g the sump options are going to be rather limited to about 20" and are all fairly cramped so return pump, heater, and skimmer options will be limited to what would fit in them. One thing I learned with having a smaller sump is how much of a pain in the butt they can be. I have to move the skimmer to swat out the filter sock, the heater is always in the way, and have to hunt to find short thin profile models that will fit. Then there's the return pump section. It is dreadfully tiny, so finding a DC pump large enough for the flow wanted/needed is also challenging and limits what can be used. Having a 48" stand, allows for a much larger sump with more room for equipment. Even though you are going minimalistic, you still want to start off with that you want instead of what will fit, as well as have the option available to add components later if you choose.

If you decide to go with the 90, another option is have a nice custom stand made that is wider and made to support it on one side or in the middle. This would allow for a larger sump vastly increasing equipment options, and a place to display other stuff if you choose.

The problem I ran into with the 75/G was it was so narrow (18”). I knew this beforehand but just figured I’d deal with it and make it work. That wasn’t the only issue. The other was the 20” height. It was rimless so you gotta run the water at minimal 2” from top of tank. When you try to deliver the flow you can’t put the powerheads high and aim them down like you can with 24” tank. So they were either blasting the corals with too much direct flow or I had to turn them down. Removing the sand helped because I was able to put a few on the back wall and let them rip. One blowing across the bottom, but the one up high was blowing into the frag rack. It was not functional any way you look at it.

24” is a good height because it does kill your armpits yet it’s deep enough to deliver flow properly.

If you do a 21” height...I would be a good idea to go with more depth like 24-36”.

I think the new tank is gonna either be the 90/G or 120/G. I know the 90/G will be cheaper for me.

90/G 36x24x24 almost a nice Cube.

120/G I’d go with the perfect and classic 48x24x24.

Either way I’m going dry rock and taking my time with the aquascape. I’m gonna do my best to avoid Vermetid’s.

I’m only putting acropora live tissue into the system that is scrubbed first. No water from previous tanks. No torch corals. No anything that Vermetid’s are commonly found on. If a Acro has any dead skeleton it will be cut off. No frag plugs. No anything. No macro.
 

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Tall cylindrical tank with sps branching from the center and lps and clams at the bottom would be cool. So like the tanks with no edges that they use to house sharks.
 

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lol don't you still have that very nice 48x24 stand? so 48x24x24 gives you the 120. i also like the depth (width) of 24". like i said the 24" tall was just tall enough for me not to be able to reach the bottom. the additional advantage of the more shallow 18" is that your par will be higher at the bottom allowing a more balanced top to bottom par. As far as flow patterns, there should be no noticablke difference between 24" and 18". its not like anyone is going to claim "oh.. you don't get a good flow pattern with an 18" depth" if they did, they better be a hydrofluid dynamics engineer to back up nonsense claims they read on the internet somewhere.
 
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lol don't you still have that very nice 48x24 stand? so 48x24x24 gives you the 120. i also like the depth (width) of 24". like i said the 24" tall was just tall enough for me not to be able to reach the bottom. the additional advantage of the more shallow 18" is that your par will be higher at the bottom allowing a more balanced top to bottom par. As far as flow patterns, there should be no noticablke difference between 24" and 18". its not like anyone is going to claim "oh.. you don't get a good flow pattern with an 18" depth" if they did, they better be a hydrofluid dynamics engineer to back up nonsense claims they read on the internet somewhere.

I did enjoy putting my hands in the tank at 20-21”. It was quite nice!

I do still have the stand, but it’s built for a standard 75/G. So...I can easily add on to the back with a few 4x4’s or 2x6’s to make it 24”. I wouldn’t even finished the sides since it will be up against a wall.

So maybe the 120/G would make more sense. I’d save at least $500 to $1500 not having to build the stand or buy one.
 
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This should do it. I have a few other things. Cody...what am I missing?? :geek: :hat:

This isn't exactly what I would get, but gives a good estimate of price. I'd likely run a DX18 hybrid fixture with T5's and some LED's. Maybe G5's in there or something similar.

Tank $700

Plumbing $300

Deltec 600ix $599

Ecotech MP40 QD X2 = $733

GEO CR818 Calcium Reactor $745

Kamoer feed pump $299.99

Kamoer replacement tube $6

Kamoer replacement head $45

ApexEL Controller 499.95

PM1 Module $84.95

Lab Grade DJ pH probe $74.95

Hanna Alk DKH meter $49.95

Hanna ULR reagents X2 $18

GHL 2.1 SA pump $469.90

Radion G5 X2 $1,679.98

Radion G5 mounts X2 $207.90

ESV Carbon 15oz $13.99

ARM CaRx media X2 $45.98

30 lbs Marco Rock $89.70

E-Marco 400 Mortar $42.00

Bob Smith IC Gel X2 $13.98

Nyos Nitrate test $24.99

Red Sea Mag Test $34.99

Red Sea Cal Test $34.99

Synergy Reef overflow $192.05

Synergy Reef 10/G ATO Reservoir $199.98

BRS 6 stage Deluxe RODI $299.99

Cepex 1.5” ball valve X2 $89.98

44/G Brute X2 $89.94

3/4" Loc-Line X2 and 1.5" bulkheads X3 $68.34



GRAND TOTAL: ***$7,753.48****
 
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GRAND TOTAL: ***$7,753.48****

I don't get it - in a post above you said "can't afford it at this point in my life" and then you come up with budget of $7k.

:confused2: :confused2: :confused2:

You don't need a sump/skimmer/calcium reactor IMO - and your tank will be in a much smaller scale.

 
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I don't get it - in a post above you said "can't afford it at this point in my life" and then you come up with budget of $7k.

:confused2: :confused2: :confused2:

You don't need a sump/skimmer/calcium reactor IMO - and your tank will be in a much smaller scale.



I can’t afford it! At least not all at once.

I’ll have to work overtime and save all my bonuses and maybe use some income tax money. It’s gonna be a little bit, but I’m super impatient.
 
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