Auto Shut Off valve on an RO/Drinking system? (1 Viewer)

[zeek]

Hey guys,

I am trying to set-up an ATO reservoir container and the instructions that came with my newly purchased auto-top off shut off valve are not very forthcoming, the instructions that I found on bulkreefsupply say and I quote:

"The blue line leaves the RO membrane as fully filtered water, goes into the "in" on the bottom of the valve and leaves through the "out "on the bottom. This is your filtered water that goes to DI resin or to a storage tank.

The red line leaves the last carbon block, enters the "in" on the top of the valve, leaves through the "out" on the top of the valve and enters the RO membrane"

So my RO membrane is T'd off right before the line enters the RO to a tank for drinking water storage, this has to be shut off when the RO is opened or it back preassures water trough the RO membrane, so I'm completely confused as to where IM supposed to place the new shut-off valve I feel that If I hook it up this way the drinking water presurized tank will be shut off and won't be filled up automatically like its supposed to, right? GOD im so confused...

Any help will be appreciated, thanks!

 

[DGTG]

Check valve between storage tank and auto shut-off valve

D

 

[DGTG]

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...L3tVRX7BEr7l3rdAw&sig2=PBBE2DMM0AIdxqBe-xb85Q

Here is the BRS video, if it's easier.

 

[zeek]

Thanks man but my system already has this aso valve/check valve because of the drinking water part of it. It shut's it off for when the drinking water tank is full. Adding the second aso valve that's confusing the crap out of me, not sure its possible come to think of it

 

[zeek]

Im finding out it's not as easy as it could be lol It would be cheaper to get a separate water drinking filter lol. thanks for the help but im hanging the hat on this one.

 

[DGTG]

Sounds like our systems are similar (dual use). Why another ASO?

Ill stand by my original statement-----if my memory serves correctly, It was only necessary to add a second check valve (and I think it is after the resivoir Tee and B4 the DI). I'll go look, if ya like

 

[zeek]

Sounds like our systems are similar (dual use). Why another ASO?

Ill stand by my original statement-----if my memory serves correctly, It was only necessary to add a second check valve (and I think it is after the resivoir Tee and B4 the DI). I'll go look, if ya like

The reason I wanted another ASO is because if I run it that way, then either reservoir be it the drinking water one or the tanks top off would shut off said valve and if one of the tanks isn't full then im stuck without water somewhere. So I figured I could just add another ASO at the end of the RO to shut it off there but I'm just not capable of figuring it out, the valve uses 4 connections, 2 in and 2 out and I am just clueless as to where the second set would go.

I got the water general rd106 dual use, reef/drinking system. So you got two ASO's in it for each reservoir? if you got it working properly, then yes please if you would check it out, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Mtaswt]

I've got the drinking water part on mine as well and I only have ONE aso. I don't think that you need two?

 

[TiAg]

I love BRS but their RO/DI instructions suck in a giant manner. I still have a part sitting here that I have no idea what it's for.

 

[DGTG]

Ok, I checked mine. It only uses 1 ASO, and a check valve.....and a couple 1/4" JG tees and 1/4"----1/4 turn shut-off valves.

There is a TEE cut in on the outlet line of the RO membrane (that line would normally go to the DI cartridge) instead it goes through the ASO first, then on to the tee.

Here we go; Three sides to a tee.......One side of the tee is the "inlet" to the tee, it comes from the RO membrane, after going through the Low side of the ASO. The other sides of the tee goes (1) out to a pressure tank and final side outlet (2) goes to a check valve allowing flow to the DI.....and then to the DI (and then to a 1/4 turn shut-off valve and then the float valve in my mixing station). I have a tee cut into the pressure tank line that goes to a 1/4 turn shut-off valve then my RO spout.

The check valve between the tee and DI resin is so as not to allow the DI to backwash into the drinking water/pressure tank supply.

The other in/out on the ASO valve is your main water going in. (if I remember right, the main water into the unit is ran through 1 side, and may be labeled as "high".......the RO/DI line runs through the "low" side).


SO.......clear as mud huh?
Trying to help....don't give up on it, you'll get there

 

[fire123]

I have the Water General RD-106.
I used to have the Drinking Water Reservoir hooked up but I removed it due to contamination and the fact that it causes back pressure that either uses up your RO membrane quicker or causes it to not work as well. (It works due to the difference in pressure up stream and down stream)
Right now for drinking water, I'll make it and store into a plastic container of my own that I can clean or replace any way I choose.

I can look and see how it works if you tell me you still want the container hooked up.
You can also post in BuckEye Field supply forum and Russ is very good at helping.

 

[zeek]

I have the Water General RD-106.
I used to have the Drinking Water Reservoir hooked up but I removed it due to contamination and the fact that it causes back pressure that either uses up your RO membrane quicker or causes it to not work as well. (It works due to the difference in pressure up stream and down stream)
Right now for drinking water, I'll make it and store into a plastic container of my own that I can clean or replace any way I choose.

I can look and see how it works if you tell me you still want the container hooked up.
You can also post in BuckEye Field supply forum and Russ is very good at helping.

So you have my system, isn't that why the Check valve that DGTG is talking about? (I bolded it out on the quote below)

Ok, I checked mine. It only uses 1 ASO, and a check valve.....and a couple 1/4" JG tees and 1/4"----1/4 turn shut-off valves.

There is a TEE cut in on the outlet line of the RO membrane (that line would normally go to the DI cartridge) instead it goes through the ASO first, then on to the tee.

Here we go; Three sides to a tee.......One side of the tee is the "inlet" to the tee, it comes from the RO membrane, after going through the Low side of the ASO. The other sides of the tee goes (1) out to a pressure tank and final side outlet (2) goes to a check valve allowing flow to the DI.....and then to the DI (and then to a 1/4 turn shut-off valve and then the float valve in my mixing station). I have a tee cut into the pressure tank line that goes to a 1/4 turn shut-off valve then my RO spout.

The check valve between the tee and DI resin is so as not to allow the DI to backwash into the drinking water/pressure tank supply.

The other in/out on the ASO valve is your main water going in. (if I remember right, the main water into the unit is ran through 1 side, and may be labeled as "high".......the RO/DI line runs through the "low" side).


SO.......clear as mud huh?
Trying to help....don't give up on it, you'll get there

yeah as mud lmao. Ok so here is what I am thinking, if this is already a drinking/reef system shouldn't it already be hooked up this way? I see a T, im working on getting the wife to "clean" up under the sink, you know how that can go. I can't get in there and see it, im starting to wish I had mounted it in a more accessible place...

SO here is what I am thinking... yah I know COOKING in here...

The way it's currently set-up, it already has an aso valve and the way the water general instructions told me to set it up I have an on/off valve on the tip of the RO and at the pressurized water container, sooooo it should already be set-up for this right? the instructions themselves say when making RO simply turn off the pressurized tank and open the RO into your container...when done shut off RO and re-open pressurized tank for drinking water access... so the difference between the already there RO valve and the "float valve"?

You got it! one requires my fat butt to get up and turn it while the other shuts itself!

Main reason I wanted this it's because I don't find it as entertaining to sit there and watch water drip for hours to fill my 5gal container and I always leave and forget and come back to a started to flood floor and a Po'd wife lmao.

SOOO am I thinking this right? that should be ok right? just change the valve for the float switch and still manually turn my pressurized tank on and off? I fear I may have been overthinking this one and I really feel like a fool now... LOL

 

[DGTG]

I don't think you are over-thinking it at all. You just want to better understand how it works, and make sure it will work like it is supposed to.

I do not have the same brand/model as you. I overlooked that you were looking for info on that specific unit, although it should operate similar to what is stated above. My apologies. Fire123 should be able to give you specifics in regards to that exact unit, however there should be a way you can get what you want......without having to turn valves off -n- on.

I plumbed mine up to use the pressurized tank for either DI (top off water OR making saltwater), or drinking (not ran through DI). That way it only tanks 23 minutes to fill my 5gallon top-off jug. If the pressure tank is empty....takes a little over an hour.

 

[DGTG]

Fire123 is correct, hit up Russ in the BFS area. He's a pro and really can put you in the right direction (he helped me with mine)

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

This may help:

Russ

 

[fire123]

The calvary is here.