Best heater? (1 Viewer)

[mittens]

What is the ‘best’ heater to use for dt?

 

[PorpoiseHork]

Having tried everything from off brand cheap Chinese to name brand top end titanium heaters I have come to the conclusion that there really isn't a "best" heater. Any heater can/will fail at any time. Brand makes no difference here. Your better off running 2-3 smaller known reliable heaters off a very reliable temperature controller. Something like the Bayite Controller is my go to controller. Intended for brewing it allows down to 1/10 F of accuracy and will easily handle 1100w of power draw as well as handle both heating and cooling. The probe is stainless and only requires minimal adjustment/calibration. The Inkbirds while OK tend to lose calibration after a few months and I ended up having to adjust them again and again to keep them accurate. The Bayite at most I have only had to adjust it by 3/10F to recalibrate it. A word of advice if you do decide to get one is set the heating threshold to at least 2/10F. If you set it to 1/10F you will regularly hear the relay clicking on/off/on/off when it hits the set temp. Once you have it set to the desired temps set the heaters to just above that incase it fails to shut off, but in the 5 years of running this controller that has never happened to me.


I have used these for Saltwater, reptile enclosures, egg incubators, and a cold water axolotl tank all with perfect results.

 

[Reefahholic]

I don’t think there’s a best heater either, but I find more old school reefers or guru’s still using Eheim Jager’s.

 

[R-BallJunkie]

this sucker is a bit spendy....after a years time, seems to be holding up fine. Not the ultimate test of longevity. I dont run my heaters submerged, rather up to the top, right below the electrical cord.
Most titanium bodied heaters would serve you fine....i always but the controller behind the controller just for redundancy..and to be fancy, two temp sensors.....seems to be working fine for me.

Shop | Innovative Marine Products






Shop | Innovative Marine Products

 

[Tenny]

BRS Titanium Heater (needs controller of course, I use my Apex, many suggest using Inkbird or other alternative as the switching on / off will wear out the relay, and replacing an inkbird is cheaper than replacing Apex).

Shop | Innovative Marine Products

I would suggest moving one temp probe to the DT. I did it just like you before, and while on a trip my return pump failed (really it was a wall outlet). So the sump was at temp just fine, but the DT wasn't at temp and I had no idea of any issues until my pet sitter (who was also a reef enthusiast) noticed it and was able to "jiggle" my outlet back to working.

Still at that point I realized the importance of having a temp probe in the DT. Now days I think Apex would notify us and everything, but still for safety I keep a temp probe in the overflow just so that I have a little bit extra security.

 

[Tangs]

I only use Wallmart 100 watt cheepos. I can keep my 125 between 77 and 82 year round using just 3 100 watt heaters. 90 percent of the time it is between 78 and 80. It is cus my aquarium is insulated on its sides..back and top for most of the year while keeping my house in the what I call comfortable mid 60s to mid 70s year round. It can go lower or higher when I take off somewhere. Ya

 

[R-BallJunkie]

I would suggest moving one temp probe to the DT.

Hmm, great suggestion. let me see if it will reach!

 

[BigRick]

Hmm, great suggestion. let me see if it will reach!

I run mine in the overflow. There is a difference when outside Temps change dramatically like they are now.

 

[mittens]

Update to thread. Two cobalt titaniums failed on me. One exploded and released the uglies inside of it. The other one’s internal temp controller failed and the heater stayed on, resulting in and overheated tank.
Now I see why cobalt is discontinued.

Aqueon pro- cheap and internal temp control pretty spot on, give or take a degree, which is fine by me. Con- one exploded and released its uglies.
Aqueon is out of the question.

Anyone have experience with BRS titaniums?

 

[BigRick]

Update to thread. Two cobalt titaniums failed on me. One exploded and released the uglies inside of it. The other one’s internal temp controller failed and the heater stayed on, resulting in and overheated tank.
Now I see why cobalt is discontinued.

Aqueon pro- cheap and internal temp control pretty spot on, give or take a degree, which is fine by me. Con- one exploded and released its uglies.
Aqueon is out of the question.

Anyone have experience with BRS titaniums?

I use the brs titaniums on controllers then apex

 

[mittens]

I use the brs titaniums on controllers then apex

How long did they last?

 

[Cody]

I’ve been using dual 500w fennix heaters on both systems for years and no issue (total of four heaters). I control them via their own thermostat and then the apex as well. The secondary kicks on two degrees below where the first kicks on in case it needs the extra power or the first fails.

 

[BigRick]

How long did they last?

I've had them for atleast 3 yrs now.

 

[soymilk]

I use the brs titaniums on controllers then apex

wait you let the apex control the heater? do you worry about the heaters wearing out the apex energy bar relays?

I have mines to an temp controller, then to the apex. for double redundancy

 

[soymilk]

im using the brs titanium 300w heaters. so far so good. but only been running for 2-3 months.

 

[Team Turtle]

I used to swear by the jager heaters...used them for years but after one shorted and fried two fish in q.t. went to the brs titanium and have not looked back...ink bird controller for 8 months now and no issues... i let it swing between 76-78 with the alarm set at 80.

 

[mittens]

I’ve been using dual 500w fennix heaters on both systems for years and no issue (total of four heaters). I control them via their own thermostat and then the apex as well. The secondary kicks on two degrees below where the first kicks on in case it needs the extra power or the first fails.

I loved my finnex 500s for my big tank but sadly those don’t fit under my 50 gal cubes.

 

[mittens]

wait you let the apex control the heater? do you worry about the heaters wearing out the apex energy bar relays?

I have mines to an temp controller, then to the apex. for double redundancy

I used my apex to control my little cubes heaters. No wear or tear after 3 yrs or so

 

[soymilk]

Until it gets stuck on

Why risk damaging the energy bar, just have a cheapo ink bird do the switching

 

[BigRick]

I have mines to an temp controller, then to the apex. for double redundancy

That's what I said .. I use brs titanium ON CONTROLLERS (specifically inkbird and hygger) then Apex.....

Must be a Democrat vs Republican thing even though secretly we on the same side