DI Resin (1 Viewer)

[RR-MAN]

What DI Resin do you use?

So for the first time ever I decided to give the BRS color changing DI resin a try. I changed all the filters on 6/28 and a week ago I was getting a reading of 10 tds. I produced only 30 gallons a week for top off, zero water changes since 6/28 so no big volume of water was produced (yes I do have a log sheet ) . I feel like the buckeye di membranes are more superior. I would change the DI resin less often.

I have a 6 stage, 1 prefilter, 2 carbon, 2 DI, RO membrane). I have not done any serious testing but I guess I have to.

 

[gregg]

I have the brs color changing and seem to get good results, I make a ton of water and only need to change the resin about every 4-6 months. Really depends on your water quality you begin with. Some time I’ll notice it jump up to 2tds but then the next day it’s back down to 0

 

[steveb]

same here.. I make 60g a week for top off and and every two weeks I make an additional 75g on average. I change my di resin approx. every 4 months.

I run: MUD feed water -> .5µ sedmiment -> chloraguard ->chloraguard->booster pump-> 2x150gpd ro membranes-> cation di -> anion di -> mixed bed di resin -> finish water

I will say I think my resin was lasting longer when I ran two mixed bed resins vs. the current config.

 

[RR-MAN]

same here.. I make 60g a week for top off and and every two weeks I make an additional 75g on average. I change my di resin approx. every 4 months.

I run: mud water -> .5µ sedmiment -> chloraguard ->chloraguard->booster pump-> 2x150gpd ro membranes-> cation di -> anion di -> mixed bed di resin -> finish water

I will say I think my resin was lasting longer when I ran two mixed bed resins vs. the current config.

I also need to go back to .5 micron for sediment-this is the first time I used 1 micron.

 

[PorpoiseHork]

same here.. I make 60g a week for top off and and every two weeks I make an additional 75g on average. I change my di resin approx. every 4 months.

I run: mud water -> .5µ sedmiment -> chloraguard ->chloraguard->booster pump-> 2x150gpd ro membranes-> cation di -> anion di -> mixed bed di resin -> finish water

I will say I think my resin was lasting longer when I ran two mixed bed resins vs. the current config.

My setup is fairly similar to yours. I don't have a booster pump on mine yet and I am running two mixed bed DI chambers. So far I am about 5 months in on mine producing about 50g a week for the tanks and drinking with mine and the first DI chamber resin is just starting to change color. TSD going in is running about 150ppm and reads 0 on the outlet. I do plan on adding a booster when I add a large capacity mixed bed canister, and switch the two smaller ones to single type.

 

[webster1234]

The life of your DI resin is directly proportional to the rejection rate of your RO membrane. If your RO membrane is rejecting 98% of the TDS, then there is very little work for your DI resin to do, making it last longer.

If your rejection rate is 94%, like the membranes from BRS, then you will burn through DI resin a lot faster because it is having to remove the TDS that isn't rejected by your membrane.

Chlorine is the biggest destroyer of RO membranes, therefore, it is very important to make sure your carbon block is good and doing its job. I change my carbon every time I change my sediment filter since measuring for chlorine is a pain.

If you don't know how to calculate the rejection rate of your membrane, let me know.

 

[Ostentum]

One thing to consider also. I had a jump in tds once after about running 60gallons due to channeling in the DI chamber. I didn’t pack it tight enough so high tds water was getting through

 

[RR-MAN]

The life of your DI resin is directly proportional to the rejection rate of your RO membrane. If your RO membrane is rejecting 98% of the TDS, then there is very little work for your DI resin to do, making it last longer.

If your rejection rate is 94%, like the membranes from BRS, then you will burn through DI resin a lot faster because it is having to remove the TDS that isn't rejected by your membrane.

Chlorine is the biggest destroyer of RO membranes, therefore, it is very important to make sure your carbon block is good and doing its job. I change my carbon every time I change my sediment filter since measuring for chlorine is a pain.

If you don't know how to calculate the rejection rate of your membrane, let me know.

Thanks James -such valuable information.
I change sediment/carbon/DI all together twice a year but now it seems like I have to do it three times a year - well also bigger tank now versus my previous 200/g tank.

One thing to consider also. I had a jump in tds once after about running 60gallons due to channeling in the DI chamber. I didn’t pack it tight enough so high tds water was getting through

oh heck no I'm not dealing with loose DI resin Jason.

 

[Reefahholic]

I use BRS color changing too.

I dont change mine for at least 6 months, there’s a trick to that.

I used to burn through DI resin like crazy...UNTIL.....I routed the first 2 minutes of water down the drain.

On the initial start up...my TDS reads up to near 150 and even 200 sometimes. So I wired my TDS meter to where it could see the number
before and after I switched the small ball valve.

When I start up...I route the high TDS creep down the drain for about 1-2 minutes. Then, after the number gets to under 5...I switch my water back through the filters. It normally runs at 3 on the IN and of course ZERO on the out.

I take a video later.

 

[RR-MAN]

I use BRS color changing too.

I dont change mine for at least 6 months, there’s a trick to that.

I used to burn through DI resin like crazy...UNTIL.....I routed the first 2 minutes of water down the drain.

On the initial start up...my TDS reads up to near 150 and even 200 sometimes. So I wired my TDS meter to where it could see the number
before and after I switched the small ball valve.

When I start up...I route the high TDS creep down the drain for about 1-2 minutes. Then, after the number gets to under 5...I switch my water back through the filters. It normally runs at 3 on the IN and of course ZERO on the out.

I take a video later.

I have the Vertex Puratek unit and it’s equipped with auto flush-but the problem is it flushes for 10-15 seconds. If I have to re-route tubes not sure how?

 

[Reefahholic]

I can come help you or Webster. We both live by you.

 

[Bigfishy]

I use BRS color changing too.

I dont change mine for at least 6 months, there’s a trick to that.

I used to burn through DI resin like crazy...UNTIL.....I routed the first 2 minutes of water down the drain.

On the initial start up...my TDS reads up to near 150 and even 200 sometimes. So I wired my TDS meter to where it could see the number
before and after I switched the small ball valve.

When I start up...I route the high TDS creep down the drain for about 1-2 minutes. Then, after the number gets to under 5...I switch my water back through the filters. It normally runs at 3 on the IN and of course ZERO on the out.

I take a video later.

Yea you need to run for a bit to flush the TDS creep. Also if you have you system setup to where it turns on when the float valve drops you will burn through DI as night amounts of TDSis sent through on each short burst. The is why avast marine works make a barrel tender.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Reefahholic]

I'm gonna shoot a quick video when i get off work. You see how high mine gets. If I didn't send that down the drain...I'd burn through DI resin like every 1-2 months. Way too expensive.

 

[steveb]

I have the Vertex Puratek unit and it’s equipped with auto flush-but the problem is it flushes for 10-15 seconds. If I have to re-route tubes not sure how?

I have an auto flush valve on my RO membranes as well. I do dump some RO water manually via a 3 way valve after the 1st flush on starting the system as it is a bit higher TDS than normal but after that I do not. I have to make water tonight. I will try and catch it right after the flush valve opens and closes after running a while to check the TDS.

 

[Reefahholic]

I have an auto flush valve on my RO membranes as well. I do dump some RO water manually via a 3 way valve after the 1st flush on starting the system as it is a bit higher TDS than normal but after that I do not. I have to make water tonight. I will try and catch it right after the flush valve opens and closes after running a while to check the TDS.

Yeah, I use a 3-way too.

 

[RR-MAN]

I have the brs color changing and seem to get good results, I make a ton of water and only need to change the resin about every 4-6 months. Really depends on your water quality you begin with. Some time I’ll notice it jump up to 2tds but then the next day it’s back down to 0

Good point - We have city water (Pearland) no M.U.D.

 

[steveb]

MUD 249
Hardness 2016 26.2

 

[Reefahholic]

This video was was inspired by RR-MAN, but he’s a seasoned reefer. So I basically geared it towards newer reefers. I did wanna show how mine jumps up on start up as well. I recently flushed the membrane really well so it didn’t hit 150, but it normally gets wayyy up there.

[youtube]2I4hfoJox6o[/youtube]

 

[RR-MAN]

Great video J!!! Hilarious [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] earlier today I was watching full metal jacket [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


I like the simplicity of your ro di-I got wires/tubes up the wazoo the way my unit came

 

[Reefahholic]

I love that show!

Yeah your unit has a lot going on there. The only other things I’d add would be the upgrade kit or booster pump if needed. For a 75/G I doubt I’ll need to.

We need to get yours running right though.

Great video J!!! Hilarious [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] earlier today I was watching full metal jacket [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


I like the simplicity of your ro di-I got wires/tubes up the wazoo the way my unit came