It’s getting there (1 Viewer)

[freeswimmingfish]

My tank is settling in. I’ve added a few frags and a piece of live rock I needed. My nitrates have come down to about 5-10ppm.
I’m still in need of more frags!

A coworker was pruning his tank and gave me a nice big piece of something that I can’t remember the name? I have it resting on the sand bed acclimating for now. It’s about 8” around and at least 8” high!
Who can guess what this is for me?

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[Reefahholic]

My tank is settling in. I’ve added a few frags and a piece of live rock I needed. My nitrates have come down to about 5-10ppm.
I’m still in need of more frags!

A coworker was pruning his tank and gave me a nice big piece of something that I can’t remember the name? I have it resting on the sand bed acclimating for now. It’s about 8” around and at least 8” high!
Who can guess what this is for me?

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Hollywood Stunner Chalice! When they get a light green. NO3 is low!

 

[freeswimmingfish]

I think he called it velvet? Does that sound right?


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[freeswimmingfish]

Hollywood Stunner Chalice! When they get a light green. NO3 is low!

Shouldn’t I be trying to get as close to zero nitrates as possible?


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[Reefahholic]

Shouldn’t I be trying to get as close to zero nitrates as possible?


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NO! Leaving a tank at zero nitrates will only cause problems like STN and RTN. The tank needs some NO3 to thrive. So do anemones!

They also need some phosphates!

I like to shoot for a PO4 of 0.05-0.09. Anything under 0.3 and I feel ok with it, but prefer lower numbers for color. Likewise with NO3...if you get down to "zero".... your SPS will likely begin to fade out and starve over time. Most hardcore SPS/Acropora junkies will keep NO3 from about 3-10 ppm. Take WWC and Sanjay Yoshi for example. Both run their systems with over 20 ppm NO3. Mature tanks will handle these higher numbers a lot better. Corals don't brown out like they typically would in a younger system running the same numbers.

The only time zero numbers are acceptable IMO... is if you know for sure there's NO3 and PO4 in the system, because the colors and corals are telling you so, but you might be testing at zero. This is usually because of two reasons. A refugium is with a lot of macro algae or a tank full of thriving corals. Both will use the available NO3 and PO4 in the water column and basically give you zero numbers or a some would say...inaccurate readings. If macro's and coral are thriving....there is no doubt available NO3 and PO4.

 

[steveb]

my latest favorite target #'s are NO3 ≈5 ppm and PO4 ≈0.1 ppm or a little less.

 

[Reefahholic]

my latest favorite target #'s are NO3 ≈5 ppm and PO4 ≈0.1 ppm or a little less.

Yeah, those sound good to me too. Every system is different and some systems do better at higher numbers and some like lower numbers. Most people are chasing colors.

This video might help you @freeswimmingfish

 

[freeswimmingfish]

Wow, thanks for the great info!
Guess I’m good. I’ll test again tonight to verify


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[steveb]

I shoot for those, definitely don’t chase them. Mostly because I have gotten lazy and only test once a month. If the sps look light I give them a squirt of sea chem phosphate and a squirt of sodium nitrate.


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[Reefahholic]

I shoot for those, definitely don’t chase them. Mostly because I have gotten lazy and only test once a month. If the sps look light I give them a squirt of sea chem phosphate and a squirt of sodium nitrate.


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Exactly, you'll know after you have certain corals for awhile. I have several "indicator corals" I like to buy when I see them. I know when they look good and when they are lacking nutrients.

 

[Cody]

The reason that corals need nitrates and phosphates is because they rely on photosynthesis, just the same as algae, which requires those two compounds to produce energy. They can also eat, which is what those polyps are for. The polyps are trying to catch free floating particles in the water column. However, the bulk of their energy comes from photosynthesis.

The levels that everyone is recommending is a happy medium between enough nutrients for the corals, but not enough for algae to take control.

 

[Reefahholic]

The reason that corals need nitrates and phosphates is because they rely on photosynthesis, just the same as algae, which requires those two compounds to produce energy. They can also eat, which is what those polyps are for. The polyps are trying to catch free floating particles in the water column. However, the bulk of their energy comes from photosynthesis.

The levels that everyone is recommending is a happy medium between enough nutrients for the corals, but not enough for algae to take control.

That's the delicate dance we all do in the first year and sometimes after. LOL

 

[Reefahholic]

That's why I have a fuge running now and snails roaming my rocks. The fuge is out competing the algae in the tank and the snails and tangs are on payroll. Just feed them real light for the first 6 months.