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mittens

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Office lost power and now I’m still without water. Cant make rodi even if I wanted to... Can’t boil water if you don’t have any...
 

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second_decimal

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Sorry about no pressure. Did you locate some?
Also, I’m loving the set up. Can you elaborate a little?
 
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Sorry about no pressure. Did you locate some?
Also, I’m loving the set up. Can you elaborate a little?

Elaborate on the set up?


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second_decimal

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Lol just curious how are you running your filtration setup. What are the 2 pressure reading canisters? Presumable the 2 canidters next to the RO Unit are DI.
 
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Lol just curious how are you running your filtration setup. What are the 2 pressure reading canisters? Presumable the 2 canidters next to the RO Unit are DI.

Gotcha. I use the smallest micro sizes for all of my filters. First two canisters house sediment filters. I have 2 gauges to monitor pressure for each sediment. If pressure drops I know to change each filter. Thats overkill and just satisfies my OCD. I use 0.35 micro for 1st sediment and 0.2 micron zetazorb sediment. When I notice the first sediment is getting kinda brown I toss that I replace it with a new 0.35 micro (it’s the cheapest thing to replace). The zetazorb is a bit pricier but can be reused ~3times. All you do is rinse it off at the sink and put it back in. When I see pressure drop I replace both at the same time. Next are 2 carbon filters 0.5 micro carbon followed by 1 micron high capacity chloramine block (HC are always more pricey but they are more effective and last much longer). I’ll be adding 1 or 2 more HC chloramine filters due to aftermath boil warning (Houston is one of the cities that uses chloramine). Then I have 2 mega max DI (I forget why these are special, all I know is Daniel at Spectrapure explained it to me once), then a HC silica buster DI and lastly 2 Enduro DI (these are basically HC DI, in case I somehow don’t monitor my TDS meters. I have 3 TDS monitors. One after my Carbon blocks (helps me to know that I’ve flushed my new blocks appropriately when I change filters, also it tells me how ugly the water is coming through). Second TDS meter is after my 2 first DI filters (the work horses of the DI) stage. Those mega max DI can be interchanged 2-3 times before I need to replace them (you can calculate when it’s time based on TDS reading and TDS reading out). This saves you a lot of $ because you can extend the life of the DI. HC silica buster takes out whatever silica that sneaks past all the previous stages. The last two enduro’s are just super strong DI to filter out whatever gets through all the previous filters (OCD here again). I test chlorine/chloramine with test strips every now and then (no color indicating to show obvious use like that of DI). If given the option for color changing filter I always use those just to add another layer of security. I also have a water softener before water hits my RODI. That takes out a lot of TDS so my incoming water is cleaner than the norm. This is all great but when it’s time to change filters it takes me a good 3 hours to flush all my filters properly l, which is a PIA. Biggest perk is my OCD has peace of mine (alter ego) and if something goes weird in my tanks I can rule out water quality. I also don’t have to change my filters often. So there... lol


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Do you need all this? Probably not.. I have a back up 7 stage RODi from BRS that I use in case of malfunction with my Spectrapure RODI. I haven’t noticed any problems coming from this one.


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second_decimal

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She has a pressure or permeate pump so way more pressure than city water. Probably 100psi? just a guess.
 
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I assume that you have an RO membrane after the carbons and before the DI? What rating (gpd) do you use?

Yes the membrane part was straight forward, membrane lol. I don’t believe they sell the unit as a GPH unit. Mine just specified that it makes 100gpd or more. So I guess 100gpd.. with the booster and 80psi that’s pretty accurate.
 
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She has a pressure or permeate pump so way more pressure than city water. Probably 100psi? just a guess.

I have 80psi. I believe anything more isn’t good for the unit.


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second_decimal

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So that’s
1. 0.35 Pleated
2. 0.2 Zeta
3 Carbon Block
4 Carbon Block
5. RO
6. Chloramine block
7. Mega DI A
8. Mega DI B
9. Silica Buster
10. Enduro DI A
11. Enduro DI B

Did get that right? That’s a lot of stages. Also, as a side question, why would one prefer a carbon block vs straight GAC?

I don’t think it’s a problem. They can handle higher pressure than that. A permeate pump puts out 100psi
 
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So that’s
1. 0.35 Pleated
2. 0.2 Zeta
3 Carbon Block
4 Carbon Block
5. RO
6. Chloramine block
7. Mega DI A
8. Mega DI B
9. Silica Buster
10. Enduro DI A
11. Enduro DI B

Did get that right? That’s a lot of stages. Also, as a side question, why would one prefer a carbon block vs straight GAC?

I don’t think it’s a problem. They can handle higher pressure than that. A permeate pump puts out 100psi

4. Chloramine
I will probably add a 3rd canister for chloramine before membrane. BRS has a ‘Chloramine monster’ that will allow me to never worry about chlorine, which is again overkill. I’m most concerned with carbon stage because it’s the easiest to overlook. There’s no way to see the depletion visually, which means you need to look at that TDS meter regularly. I don’t rely on just the TDS meter for carbon stage, I have to use chlorine strips every now and then.
Carbon blocks- I get to choose which are high capacity, microns, and chloramine. Idk if you can do that with GAC. Never used it.


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4. Chloramine
I will probably add a 3rd canister for chloramine before membrane. BRS has a ‘Chloramine monster’ that will allow me to never worry about chlorine, which is again overkill. I’m most concerned with carbon stage because it’s the easiest to overlook. There’s no way to see the depletion visually, which means you need to look at that TDS meter regularly. I don’t rely on just the TDS meter for carbon stage, I have to use chlorine strips every now and then.
Carbon blocks- I get to choose which are high capacity, microns, and chloramine. Idk if you can do that with GAC. Never used it.


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The carbon(s) always go before the membrane since, in addition to it being toxic to our tank inhabitants, chlorine will significantly shorten the life of the membrane (as will sediment). Some of the carbon/chloramine blocks I’ve used say they are GAC, while others don’t specify. I suspect that the size of the media and the way it is packed in is what makes it a “block” as opposed to, say, a refillable GAC canister. In any case, it sounds like you’ve got a good system :)
 

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@mittens, I did a bit of googling and found this BRS video that speaks directly to the carbon- chlorine- chloramine question. Granted, they are demonstrating a BRS product, but watching the entire video (11 minutes or so) provides a lot of good info about the chemicals that can help each person individualize their system.
* I am in no way expressing an opinion on the product, just posting for the information and educational value. This is part 2.
.

If you want to watch part 1 (unnecessary imo), here’s that link...
 

Erin

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Wow, the Chloramine Monster is $270, and replacement filters are $160! While it says it can last 75,000 gallons (19,000 gallons of filtered RO), I think after watching the videos, using 2 of the 1 micron carbon blocks ($17 each and net of about 3500 gallons using just 1) is the way I’ll go.
Now I need to dig out my box of replacement filters and see if I’ve already got any ;) )
 

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