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Magnesium deficiency or something else causing my issues (1 Viewer)

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Sorry this is a bit long, but I figured I should give the full rundown on my setup to make it easier to help diagnose the source of my issues so I can get this thing in line.

So my sw tank (40G) is still relatively young, going on 3.5 months old now. So far everything has been going well aside form my battling pesky algae/cyano issues. all my livestock is doing well and corals do seem happy and healthy but have been seeing some loss of color intensity. My issues thus far have been repeat mini diatom outbreaks anytime I mess with the sand bed (caribsea live sand 2.5" deep) and reoccurring cyano development. The diatom bloom starts on the bed in the area I disturbed, then jumps to the rock and will last for 3-5 days then fade out. The cyano starts as spots on the rock then starts spreading but never covers everything in a mat like appearance like the first bloom that covered the majority of the bed and was treated with ChemiClean. I also have lime green algae that is on all the light facing rock that only my tuxedo is able to get off.

For maintenance and normal running I do weekly 10% water changes and run my crappy light (saving for a AI Hydra) for 8 hours a day with 2 additional hours of moon light. Filtration is a 306 canister with the BioHome Ultimate (used this stuff on my FW tanks and have always had great success with it) on the bottom two trays and the top loaded with poly-filter, Chemi-Pure Elite, and Purigen. Water flow in my tank is fairly high with the filter wave maker producing a combined 700 GPH with plenty of surface agitation. I dose with seachem reef complete, trace, lugol's iodine, and Kent Alk buffer. My levels are very stable with no unusual swings.

PH: 8.0-8.1
Salinity: 1.021-23
Alk: 216
Cal: 420-440
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: .05
Phos: 0

I had not been testing for Magnesium at this point and my LFS doesn't normally test for it and when asked they stated their test kit for it was out. So I got a Salifert MG test kit and got a reading of 450. I ran the test two more times just to be sure I did it right and got the same reading.

I went to the LFS and talked to the owner about it and he said that it is fine and that every few years the reef community picks a new hot button and the current one is Magnesium. He stated that for decades no one knew about or tested for magnesium and that as long as my calcium and alkalinity were stable (which they have been) then I did not have an issue there. He said that my main issue is with my sand bed being too deep and is becoming anaerobic because I am not cleaning the bed it is causing an organic build up that is leading to my algal blooms. He also said that the rock and my filter media being highly porous sintered glass will handle the anaerobic bacteria and the bed is best to be aerobic and my regular water changes will keep the nitrate levels in check. His recommendation was to increase iodine, remove about 1/2 the sand bed over the next few weeks so it can be vacuumed and blast the rock with my powerhead prior to water changes to get all the detritus in the water column and let it settle on the bed prior to cleaning.

So I'm conflicted all the research I have done for months prior to and since converting to salt all tell me that magnesium levels should be around 1350. But I have contrary information from a highly experienced reefer that's pointing me in a different direction. I obviously want to attack the source of the problems instead of treating the symptoms.

Who's right? Are my issues the result of a high organic buildup that's leading to the reoccurring blooms or my having a possible Magnesium deficiency? Of a combination of both?

Thanks in advance
 

webster1234

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...Triton test... find out where everything is before you start changing anything...Do one, establish a base line, and move from there. Otherwise you are just throwing darts. Trial and error will take you forever, and in the end, you won't know what you did to fix it because the small changes you make aren't noticed for several weeks at best.
 
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Id test it with a different kit. Take it a sample of it to an LFS or maybe a MARSHian near you can test it. I know its a new kit and all but 450 does not sound very likely to be your real Magnesium level.
 

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Don't do anything but water changes for the moment can you post some pics of your problem, might help. Keeping magnesium high use to help with bryopsis, but you said nothing of that. Other than that 1200 should be sufficient.
 
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I did pick up a bottle of Kent Magnesium last night and dosed it this morning. I'll recheck it this evening to see if it has come up. Also it seems my Alk is a tad high at 216 (11.23). Other than water changes what other safe ways can I lower it down from 11 to 8-9? I have looked around but most of the ways I have found are for FW or say to do large frequent W/C's and give it time.

Steveb - Awesome information there. Thank you.

Webster1234 - Good point. I'll test the source water tonight to see where it's at and make adjustments to it if needed.

Fish Keeper82 - I just got the Salifert kit and ran the test several times to verify the results. My LFS I normally go to currently doesn't have a Mg test. I'll have to check with a couple others I go to and see if they can test my sample and kit against theirs.
 
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PSXerholic

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Hey,
feel I need to chime in here quick.

Too bad to hear that a LFS is telling you this stuff...........:-(

Get to 1350 to 1400 and you are good with your setup.
I personally use the red sea pro MG test, however.

1. Get down to Dennis at FJW and ask for a free sample of water for you to test MG.
If your letting him know the results, he will likely do not charge for the water, lol.
So tackle the MG

2. Also it seems that you have insufficient nutrients.
To avoid a blow up of this thread, I can strongly recommend to read up "Andre's Reef Guide - Coral Colorization Part#1" to cover the low nutrient system issues you have or will have trouble with.
This will support and may cure your algae/cyano issues as well will bring bacterial ALK consumption up.

3. You dose Lugols Iodine, stop that!
If you feel the need for Iodine, then use very small amounts of Iodide e.g Kent for now.
However, do not dose Iodine directly, only the unoxidated form, which is Iodide.
Big mistake people do is dosing Iodide/Iodine without measuring it.
So if not measured, hands off ;-)

4. ALK will need to be consumed more as soon the MG level is balanced. Give it then a few days or a week and it will drop slowly into nice levels as soon calcification in the tank starts.


Hope that info will find use ;-)

-Andre
 
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PSXerholic,

Thank you you the information. Despite what the proprietor of the LFS I usually go to I did start dosing Mg. I will try to swing by and see Dennis this Saturday. His shop is around the corner from me and I may bring a small sample of my water and test kit in to see if he can help me with it.

As for the Lugol's, I wasn't dosing much. The type I have been using is a 5% solution with 2.5 mg iodine and 3.75 mg potassium iodide per drop. I am measuring 4 drops into a cup then draw it into a medical dosing pipette to verify it is .25 ml and add it to the tank. But your saying stop that, then I'll do that until I get everything else under control then look at other iodine dosing options.

And I will definitely look at the guide as any and all help for this is greatly appreciated.
 

PSXerholic

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PSXerholic,

Thank you you the information. Despite what the proprietor of the LFS I usually go to I did start dosing Mg. I will try to swing by and see Dennis this Saturday. His shop is around the corner from me and I may bring a small sample of my water and test kit in to see if he can help me with it.

As for the Lugol's, I wasn't dosing much. The type I have been using is a 5% solution with 2.5 mg iodine and 3.75 mg potassium iodide per drop. I am measuring 4 drops into a cup then draw it into a medical dosing pipette to verify it is .25 ml and add it to the tank. But your saying stop that, then I'll do that until I get everything else under control then look at other iodine dosing options.

And I will definitely look at the guide as any and all help for this is greatly appreciated.

NP, do that and good luck with the fix ;-)

Iodine you just avoid, except as a dip as a rule of thumb. Can cause bleaching so rule this simply out for now.
Iodide in very small amounts only if you have tested, with a Red Sea Iodide test (which is the easiest I test so far I used, hint).
I use 4 drops similar like your mix on a 250G system daily.


-Andre
 
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So I have an update on my tank progress.

It appears that I was mis-reading the final reading on the Mg from the test kit due to an error in adding the final reagent. My correct Mg level when I first started testing was between 850 and 950. I now have it up to 1100 after a week of dosing. I also found two new coraline colonies have started growing on the back glass as soon as it hit 1000. I'm excited for this as it's the first signs of it in the tank. I also had a big spike in nitrates and a small phosphate spike after a week of Mg dosing. I went from 0 nitrate and phosphates to 30 nitrate and 10 phosphate that I'm not sure what could have caused it, but I assume it is from some sort of algal die off. This prompted me to do a 50% water change and I removed about 1/3 of the top layer of sand after blasting all the rock work with a powerhead to get all the detrius out and let it settle on the bed. I also did a full tear down and clean of the filter and added phosguard to assist with the possible silicate spike with the sand removal. Calcium and Alk are a tad high for my liking So i'm not going to dose kalk for now until those start to come down. Everything looks happy and I have really good polyp extension despite all the work to the tank this weekend.

So it looks like I'm on the right track.
 
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