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MH seems dim? (1 Viewer)

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Andrewr2488

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I recently purchased a used MH/HQI fixture that has a 150w 14k Phoenix bulb, not sure of the age of the bulb but I threw the light on my tank and it seems somewhat dim. Could this be a sign that the bulb should be replaced, or could it be the ballast under driving the bulb?
 
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It really depends on multiple factors.
First, do you know how many hours the lamp/ballast have on them?
Second, What condition is the reflector in?
Is the reflector clean or does it have any haze build up on it?
What type of light did you have prior to this? T5HO, LED, or Hybrid?
How deep is the tank? The 150W is only rated for 18" deep tanks.
How high above the water line is it mounted? You can

Also our eyes are a really poor at determining brightness of a specific color range. The only real way to tell if the lamp or ballast is aged and needs replacement is to get a par meter and test your old light, the new light and then replace the bulb and test again. If the bulb has 3-4K hours on it then you can figure you have lost up to 20% or more total output of the fixture.
 

Clownfish Chris

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It really depends on multiple factors.
First, do you know how many hours the lamp/ballast have on them?
Second, What condition is the reflector in?
Is the reflector clean or does it have any haze build up on it?
What type of light did you have prior to this? T5HO, LED, or Hybrid?
How deep is the tank? The 150W is only rated for 18" deep tanks.
How high above the water line is it mounted? You can

Also our eyes are a really poor at determining brightness of a specific color range. The only real way to tell if the lamp or ballast is aged and needs replacement is to get a par meter and test your old light, the new light and then replace the bulb and test again. If the bulb has 3-4K hours on it then you can figure you have lost up to 20% or more total output of the fixture.
This.

FYI, Marsh has several par meters for its members to check out.
 

Paul Buie

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If you keep the MH fixture change the bulb. Buy a Phoenix to replace it. They are probably the best double ended. They do need to be replaced every year.....you can look on the labeling of the ballast, but I'm pretty sure the lights and ballast are a pair...
 
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Andrewr2488

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Bought it used so I can't say how old the fixture is, Bulb also has unknown amount of time. Is it normal for it to make a buzzing sound and flicker when first firing up the MH? Wondering if the ballast is the issue. Reflector doesn't seem to be very dirty, 16" deep tank with light about 5"above the water. Had a chinese black box LED (galaxy hydro full spectrum) running at about 40% whites/full spectrum and 80% blue/uv which was suspending about 7" above the water. I'm not sure if the LED just seemed much brighter than the MH, But I can say that the MH is more powerful because I've had to drastically decrease my photoperiod to acclimate and still some SPS are bleaching the tips, I've reduced even more to decrease damage to corals.

ClownfishChris
I'm not living in the Houston area at the moment, But do make frequent visits. Using a Marsh PAR meter is not likely.

Paul Buie
It has a Phoenix 14k in it at the moment, once I am finished acclimating the tank to the light, then I will replace the phoenix 14k in it with a new one, I don't want to damage corals anymore than what I already have.. I'm just not sure how old this one is thats in it currently.
 
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First thing know when dealing with lighting, just because a particular light seems brighter doesn't mean it is better or that it is producing the right color for the given job it's being used for. As I stated before our eyes are really poor at determining brightness in specific color ranges. The Galaxy light spectrum has a lot more reds and yellows in it than the MH does. The Phoenix lamp when new has a significantly higher output in the sub 400nm to 450nm ranges than the Galaxy, however as the bulb ages its lux output will drop and color will shift some bringing in more of the yellow and reds. Zooxanthellae with chlorophyll b (what's in most corals) respond the most positively to light in the 410/30nm to 453nm range. Zooxanthellae with chlorophyll a respond best to light in the 640-650nm range commonly found in most types of algae. The Phoenix 14K bulb like most high quality reef lighting is engineered to maximize color output for chlorophyll b. That is why atinic marine lighting is used, but we humans prefer much softer colors in the 4-7k or daylight range and that is where most of a light's perceived brightness comes from. Chlorophyll b will not make much use of the warmer colors, so light output in that range is more for our benefit than the corals. The Phoenix 14k lamp having most of its light output set in the 400-500nm range and a small spike in the 640nm range will not appear as bright to us especially when comparing it to the Galaxy due to it producing far more light int he lower range than the Phoenix, but that doesn't mean it's not producing a ton of PAR especially at shallow depths. The fact that your sps corals are bleaching at the tips is likely proof of that. The other cause for the bleaching could be just to the sudden change in the color spectrum that stressed the corals a little bit. If anything I would replace the bulb, only because you don't know the run-time hour count on it, and if possible raise it up another inch or two for a few weeks and then slowly lower it back down.

As for the buzzing and flicker, yes that's normal. MH lights make noise, especially in fixtures with older bulbs and ballasts. The buzzing sound when first powering on is typically the capacitors heating up and/or coil whine. The flicker is usually caused by the arc in the arc discharge tube swirling around as the quartz glass heats up. This can take up to 90 seconds or more depending on the ballast and bulb to reach full power and normal operating temp. If you have access to some welding goggles you can watch it swirl around the tube, it's kinda neat.
 
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Andrewr2488

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I replaced the Phoenix with a new Phoenix 14k and the color output is much more crisp white color with a blue tinge to it, compared to a washed out white that I was getting before. Bad news though is that my timer malfunctioned while I was out of town and my MH stayed on for 4 days straight, burning most of my corals to death.. I lost about 70% of my corals.. I'm planning a renovation for the tank this fall. I'll probably be switching everything over to either a 40b and run a couple Kessils on it. I'm really wanting a tank with a sump again instead of an AIO. The light is giving good results on the corals that did survive the 4 days of constant lighting..
 
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