OP
- Thread Starter
- #121
The question is....should I do a Front or Side mount under the stand?
-
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New Rimless 75/G build!
- Thread starter Reefahholic
- Start date
OP
- Thread Starter
- #124
I was gonna do a side mount (because it’s so easy), but figured I’d like to see the dosers head on when I open the stand doors. The mounts came out pretty slick...and of course WHITE!
I’ll get some pictures up soon or a video.
I’ll get some pictures up soon or a video.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #125
The GHL will go on the Right Mount. It’s shipping direct from the factory so it won’t be here till the 20th.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #128
I normally like to dose into the return, but this sump already has built in connections (in the baffle area). So the GHL will feed into those 4 and the DP4 will probably be routed over to the return side as well.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #129
Thx man!
You’re very talented this looks awesome!
The GHL will go on the Right Mount. It’s shipping direct from the factory so it won’t be here till the 20th.
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Wow super clean.
The GHL will go on the Right Mount. It’s shipping direct from the factory so it won’t be here till the 20th.
Since you are going for a clean look enclose the back of the stand-you can cut some slots for air circulation
OP
- Thread Starter
- #132
Thx man...Not very talented, but just very OCD.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #133
I thought about it.....the curtains kill the clean look. I kinda wanted to leave it open in case I put some equipment inside. I had everything rust the last time I closed my stand up. All the screws and anything metal were rusting.Wow super clean.
Since you are going for a clean look enclose the back of the stand-you can cut some slots for air circulation
Maybe I could close it up, cut some vent holes, and run a small fan inside there.??
OP
- Thread Starter
- #134
Dosing tubing I’m using if anybody is interested:
Tygon® XL-60 Tubing
Designed specifically for use in peristaltic pump applications, Tygon® pump tubing maintains a pump life of over 500 hours. With a durometer hardness of Shore A60, it is extremely flexible and exhibits superior flex life, reducing downtime due to pump tubing failure.
Tygon® XL-60 Tubing
Designed specifically for use in peristaltic pump applications, Tygon® pump tubing maintains a pump life of over 500 hours. With a durometer hardness of Shore A60, it is extremely flexible and exhibits superior flex life, reducing downtime due to pump tubing failure.
- Low extractables
- Extremely flexible & exhibits superior flex life
- Alternative to PVC & silicone
- UV, ozone & oxygen resistant
- Excellent chemical resistance to a wide range of fluids, including acids & bases
- Durometer hardness (shore A): 60
- Temperature range: -87°F to 250°F
- Meets FDA & NSF 51 standards
- EU Regulation 10/2011 compliant
- Sold in full rolls of 50' only
OP
- Thread Starter
- #136
I haven't ever. There's been a few times where I know I should have. I try to spread the load. On this tank...I have power on both sides that just happened to be from different wires.
If you only have one outlet and there's not another outlet close enough....run an extension cord from the closest outlet to the tank. You could run an EB8 or American DJ off that. Just make sure the extension cord is legit and the proper gauge and grounded.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #137
On the Right side I have:
XP Aqua ATO
Sump LED
Wave maker
Wave maker
Heater
Return pump
GHL doser
On the Left side:
ATI powermodule
Wave maker
Wave maker
Heater
DP4 doser
XP Aqua ATO
Sump LED
Wave maker
Wave maker
Heater
Return pump
GHL doser
On the Left side:
ATI powermodule
Wave maker
Wave maker
Heater
DP4 doser
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For 100 dollars you can have a 25 amp drop done. Which to me is piece of mind for what we have in our tanks.
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OP
- Thread Starter
- #139
If I buy or build a house, I’ll definitely be running extra wires or outlets.
OP
- Thread Starter
- #140
-System update-
Tank is about 3 months tonight. All is going well and I feel like we’re on track and ahead of schedule. I’ve had a few issues, but nothing unexpected and nothing that couldn’t be handled. Don’t let the picture fool you though. I’m very proactive when it comes to tank husbandry. As always I like to clean all glass panels and I like bright white sand-beds. Wink Wink. The rock in the tank is quite aged. It’s about 10 years old and came from the Gulf of Mexico. I cured it for weeks before it went into the tank. Boy was it funky too. Did several water changes before it went in and had Siporax (about 4 months old) in the holding tank with it. I fed the tank to keep Bacteria populations up. So there’s some biodiversity in the system, but I’m adding more critters shortly- that will help even more. Need to pick up some pods, worms, snails, mini stars, crabs, etc. It’s far from sterile I promise. I just got the PO4 down from 0.4 to 0.05 ppm. You probably would never think that by looking at the picture unless I told you. Nitrates are still 12+ ppm. I believe I have control of them now. One thing I can say is that LR handles a new tank setup so much better than dry rock. The biggest difference I’ve observed is that you do not get all the brown crud in the overflow box, on the powerheads, etc. The LR just absorbs all the “new tank syndrome” issues that you would normally have. I did think I could grow harder Acro’s from about the 2nd week, but they still STN’nd. The tank was just too young. Acro’s never do well for me until the 6 month plus mark. Of course... all the easier Birdsnest, Stylopora, Chalice, do ok though. They’re not basing out much yet, but they will soon. I expect the tank to start doing better in the next few months and I’ll slowly add more coral.
Here’s a few test logs so you guys can see how the NO3 & PO4 numbers were in the last 3 months.
Current parameters are:
ALK: 9.9 (will be targeting 8.5 as I switch salts)
CAL: 450
MAG: 1440
NO3 12+ (Not sure exactly how high. The corals got very dark. I’m guessing 20-50 ppm. I accidentally turned the NO3 dosing head on for 9 days before I caught it) Eeeeeekkkk...
PO4: 0.05
pH: 8.2-8.3 (lights on) 8.1 (lights off)
SG: 1.026
Fuge: Reverse light cycle (opposite from display light)
Skimmer: None
GFO: None
Carbon: 1/2 cup per 50/G (in filter sock)
LaCI: Dosed as needed. I don’t like PO4 over 0.3 ppm. Target: 0.05-0.09 ppm
Tank is about 3 months tonight. All is going well and I feel like we’re on track and ahead of schedule. I’ve had a few issues, but nothing unexpected and nothing that couldn’t be handled. Don’t let the picture fool you though. I’m very proactive when it comes to tank husbandry. As always I like to clean all glass panels and I like bright white sand-beds. Wink Wink. The rock in the tank is quite aged. It’s about 10 years old and came from the Gulf of Mexico. I cured it for weeks before it went into the tank. Boy was it funky too. Did several water changes before it went in and had Siporax (about 4 months old) in the holding tank with it. I fed the tank to keep Bacteria populations up. So there’s some biodiversity in the system, but I’m adding more critters shortly- that will help even more. Need to pick up some pods, worms, snails, mini stars, crabs, etc. It’s far from sterile I promise. I just got the PO4 down from 0.4 to 0.05 ppm. You probably would never think that by looking at the picture unless I told you. Nitrates are still 12+ ppm. I believe I have control of them now. One thing I can say is that LR handles a new tank setup so much better than dry rock. The biggest difference I’ve observed is that you do not get all the brown crud in the overflow box, on the powerheads, etc. The LR just absorbs all the “new tank syndrome” issues that you would normally have. I did think I could grow harder Acro’s from about the 2nd week, but they still STN’nd. The tank was just too young. Acro’s never do well for me until the 6 month plus mark. Of course... all the easier Birdsnest, Stylopora, Chalice, do ok though. They’re not basing out much yet, but they will soon. I expect the tank to start doing better in the next few months and I’ll slowly add more coral.
Here’s a few test logs so you guys can see how the NO3 & PO4 numbers were in the last 3 months.
Current parameters are:
ALK: 9.9 (will be targeting 8.5 as I switch salts)
CAL: 450
MAG: 1440
NO3 12+ (Not sure exactly how high. The corals got very dark. I’m guessing 20-50 ppm. I accidentally turned the NO3 dosing head on for 9 days before I caught it) Eeeeeekkkk...
PO4: 0.05
pH: 8.2-8.3 (lights on) 8.1 (lights off)
SG: 1.026
Fuge: Reverse light cycle (opposite from display light)
Skimmer: None
GFO: None
Carbon: 1/2 cup per 50/G (in filter sock)
LaCI: Dosed as needed. I don’t like PO4 over 0.3 ppm. Target: 0.05-0.09 ppm
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