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Big Rick

Big Rick

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You don't HAVE to but suppose your very first fish comes in with velvet or ich. Now your tank is infected and every subsequent fish you add will get infected. So you have to wait approx 60-90 days for the parasites to die off. I forget the exact length but its available online.

Its always a gamble regardless of the source of your animals.

QT can be as simple as a 20g with hang on filter and a small heater.
Got it..... What's the recommended amount of time for them to be in a QT?
 

steveb

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Usually 30 days. If you observe something then start treating it.

i.e. If you need to treat for ich or velvet you can use copper. You would ramp it up to therapeutic dose. IF you use copper you CANNOT use an ammonia binder in the qt tank - it will kill the fish.

I like to keep hob filter pads in the sump of one of my existing systems for when I need them, then I just pull use and throw away when done (never re-use).
 

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@Steve: I just set my QTs last night. (2 x 20gal tanks with HOB and heater. I also added ammonia pads).

If the plan is to do TTM, after the fourth and last transfer, that would be roughly 12 days. Do I have to keep the fish an additional 15 days in observation for a total of 30 days or can I move them to DT after those 12 days?

Last, I got some bio bricks instead of the filter pads (Dang.. those throw away pads would have been great). I assume no parasites would host in it as it would a pad, correct? Therefore I don't need to bleach them during my QT period? Or should I just keep those bricks in my DT's sump and get some pads instead that I can easily throw away?
 

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@Steve: I just set my QTs last night. (2 x 20gal tanks with HOB and heater. I also added ammonia pads).

If the plan is to do TTM, after the fourth and last transfer, that would be roughly 12 days. Do I have to keep the fish an additional 15 days in observation for a total of 30 days or can I move them to DT after those 12 days?

Last, I got some bio bricks instead of the filter pads (Dang.. those throw away pads would have been great). I assume no parasites would host in it as it would a pad, correct? Therefore I don't need to bleach them during my QT period? Or should I just keep those bricks in my DT's sump and get some pads instead that I can easily throw away?
I would just to observe and to make sure nothing slipped through.

bio bricks... hmmm definitely let them dry out/bleach. I would be very hesitant about re-using but that is me. I like the pads... they are relatively cheap, can be thrown away if I use chemicals etc.

Really with ttm your going to be changing tanks/water often enough that ammonia may not be an issue.
 

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Thanks ITreefer, I planed on using a bottle of Biospira. I have not heard about using pad/floss from an established tank. That's a good tip but unfortunately that is not something I have access to.
You're on my side of town, I will gladly give you one of my used filter pads and a scoop of sand to help the cycle out. Pm me if you're interested.
 

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Just FYI, I have gotten infected fish from divers den. I know they say their fish are QT'd but I would strongly refute that. So I'm glad I QT'd their QT'd fish.
 

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Would I have to QT the 1st fish that I plan to keep? Please correct me if I am way off with my thinking. I assumed that because they are no other fish in the tank, there would be no other fish that would be in danger of greeting sick. Once I have had those fish for a month or 2, then I would consider adding additional fish.
What everyone else said. Always QT in a separate tank. It's easy to clean out a 10g tank if it gets infested with parasites. The only thing you can do if they get in your display tank is wait......and wait......for at least 90 days with no fish. Plus, if you treat your display tank with copper, it will get in your rock and sand, and you can't ever have coral after that. Glass bare bottom QT is the only way to go. You can build an adequate QT setup for less than $50 bucks.
 

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Would these work OK for these purposes? I am sure there has to be smaller ones and larger quatity, but can't seem to find it now.

Pads 1
Pads 2

*EDIT*
Found these as well. Would a single bio-ball of these do the trick for a 20gal tank? I can keep the rest in my DT sump and use one for each QT tank. If I need to use a new bio-ball for each tank and throw-away / replace with a new one for each water/tank change during the TTM process, these seems like a better option?
 
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Big Rick

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Thanks for all the replies! I will be setting up a 20 gallon QT. I've ordered a HOB filter, heater, thermometer, and I already have an extra wave pump. I will be getting a 20 gallon tank tomorrow.

Any tips for setting it up from scratch as I do not currently have an established tank? Are there certain meds that I should get in advance, just to be prepared?
 
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I'm checking out the "Quarantine Method" thread also in this forum and I'm getting some good information there.
 

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Would these work OK for these purposes? I am sure there has to be smaller ones and larger quatity, but can't seem to find it now.

Pads 1
Pads 2

*EDIT*
Found these as well. Would a single bio-ball of these do the trick for a 20gal tank? I can keep the rest in my DT sump and use one for each QT tank. If I need to use a new bio-ball for each tank and throw-away / replace with a new one for each water/tank change during the TTM process, these seems like a better option?

You really don' t need the filter during TTM. That would be more for post TTM observation or if your doing a copper or chloroquine phosphate type treatment.

I use a couple of 5g buckets, an air stone and I think they are 20w fixed temp heaters. Most of the fish I have done that with are smaller.

I have a couple of 20g buckets and 50w heaters as well for larger fish.
 
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