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Quarantine Methods v. Non-Swimming Items (1 Viewer)

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Tenny

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In general we all know the RIGHT way to introduce our fish into our systems. We know we should quarantine them where we can treat them from the beginning before we introduce them to our aquariums. Some do this the right way @Reefahholic has a great thread explaining his process (with copper) on it and I have used it for quick references many times. We know the various methods (copper, ttm), etc. Some of us just choose to risk it.

What I've read is basically you want to have a seperate system running and place the item in for 75 (or till they molt) and then introduce them into the main display. They say you want to do it for any inverts and corals. The reason for 75 days is there is a 75 day version of ich that can live in the tomont stage without any hosts. After 75 days have passed without finding a host it will die off. If an invert molts, it will dislodge any tomonts on its shell and can be safely moved in. The tomont can also be on algae or even corals too thus they need the same treatment.

I've also read the day counter doesn't start with each new item added. So you can add corals at different times and you can pull them out after they have reached their "75th" day.

So who follows these types of rules? I know in the past I've done coral revive for corals then plopped them into the systems. For Inverts I would just try and "wash" them as best as possible with tank water and then pluck them in also. With my current tank I left it without fish in it for about two months before I got the first fish in there after the clean up crew. Wasn't on purpose was just too busy with life during that time.

I have a 12g cube with an AI Prime and I'm thinking of making it my QT tank for the inverts / corals.

References:
Coral and Invertebrate Quarantine Procedures - Petcha
How to Quarantine Coral and Inverts
 

Rio1969

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Right now I have some snails a copy of urchin and 3 corals in a QT tank since the end of November. I plan to add them to the DT next month.
 
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It’s good to QT anything wet. That 72 day fallow period originated from an old “cold water” study which then turned into a 76 day fallow period as a “worse case scenario.”

I QT all fish. I don’t QT coral because I’ll just take my chances on ICH or Flat worms. I do dip the heck out of my coral, but the dip doesn’t kill everything.

Honestly...with temps in the high 70’s or low 80’s...ICH should be gone within 35 days EASY- without a host. If I have to go fallow again...it’s gonna be 35 days for me. I’ll turn my temp to 80 and 35 days is going to be it for me.

If you wanna absolutely take the least risky route.

- QT everything wet for 76 days
- QT all fish and coral then move to a separate system and observe until you’re absolutely sure they’re clean.

I just don’t have the patience or the space for multiple systems. However...when it comes to fish I’ll always QT and prophylactically treat every fish that enters my DT.
 
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Tenny

Tenny

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It’s good to QT anything wet. That 72 day fallow period originated from an old “cold water” study which then turned into a 76 day fallow period as a “worse case scenario.”

I QT all fish. I don’t QT coral because I’ll just take my chances on ICH or Flat worms. I do dip the heck out of my coral, but the dip doesn’t kill everything.

Honestly...with temps in the high 70’s or low 80’s...ICH should be gone within 35 days EASY- without a host. If I have to go fallow again...it’s gonna be 35 days for me. I’ll turn my temp to 80 and 35 days is going to be it for me.

If you wanna absolutely take the least risky route.

- QT everything wet for 76 days
- QT all fish and coral then move to a separate system and observe until you’re absolutely sure they’re clean.

I just don’t have the patience or the space for multiple systems. However...when it comes to fish I’ll always QT and prophylactically treat every fish that enters my DT.
Good to know about the 75 day being from a cold water study!

I have decided to turn the 12g cube into a coral / invert qt tank. It already has some corals so it looks good. I am thinking about adding a few of the more interesting inverts so that they can keep the tank "entertaining" along with the corals that are coming and going into it. I added some more corals the other day from a member here. I'm sure they are safe but I need to get into the "rhythm" of just doing that regardless of where it comes from. The AI Prime HD is more than enough for most corals out there given how small of a tank it is.
 
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