OP
OP
Thanks guys, the process is slow but worth it! If anyone goes down this path I'll be happy to help with my knowledge.
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Waterbox 130.4 Tank Journal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tenny
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OP
OP
Progress has been made!
April 13, 2020 will be 76 days and I can add some of my corals back into the tank. Some have been in my Invert QT tank for weeks / months.... so those can move in earlier (as there has never been a fish in there). The old tank will be ran fallow with only the top filled with water. Most of the equipment I have I want to keep. So over the next few days I'll be migrating the stuff to the new tank and bleaching the wet equipment.
Summary of today:
Moved Corals into rubbermaid bin
Moved rocks w/o coral into another rubbermaid bin (to be bleached)
Moved all fish into 40g QT
Removed Sand as best as possible (there's still more...)
Moved tank (put on felt tips, and slid across house)
Added fresh salt water
Added corals
Added more fresh Salt Water
I broke a few of my hard corals... duh. I couldn't get two of the anemone's off probably the only rocks I want to keep in the other tank... duh. Hope to get them off in the next few days. Fish overall seem happy. At first they weren't very happy but at this point they seem to be swimming around well. Hope to do some scaping tonight and get water in the new tank this weekend.
40g was taller than I expected...
CBB is confused at what's going on:
Found these all over the rocks, I assume a sponge?
Right after the fish got moved... (yes the small filter is on the wrong side because the 40g was too tall... )
Sorting rocks (there's still more in the tank)
Tank is so barron...
All coral back into the tank.
Overall most of the stuff seems happy considering what it just went through:
April 13, 2020 will be 76 days and I can add some of my corals back into the tank. Some have been in my Invert QT tank for weeks / months.... so those can move in earlier (as there has never been a fish in there). The old tank will be ran fallow with only the top filled with water. Most of the equipment I have I want to keep. So over the next few days I'll be migrating the stuff to the new tank and bleaching the wet equipment.
Summary of today:
Moved Corals into rubbermaid bin
Moved rocks w/o coral into another rubbermaid bin (to be bleached)
Moved all fish into 40g QT
Removed Sand as best as possible (there's still more...)
Moved tank (put on felt tips, and slid across house)
Added fresh salt water
Added corals
Added more fresh Salt Water
I broke a few of my hard corals... duh. I couldn't get two of the anemone's off probably the only rocks I want to keep in the other tank... duh. Hope to get them off in the next few days. Fish overall seem happy. At first they weren't very happy but at this point they seem to be swimming around well. Hope to do some scaping tonight and get water in the new tank this weekend.
40g was taller than I expected...
CBB is confused at what's going on:
Found these all over the rocks, I assume a sponge?
Right after the fish got moved... (yes the small filter is on the wrong side because the 40g was too tall... )
Sorting rocks (there's still more in the tank)
Tank is so barron...
All coral back into the tank.
Overall most of the stuff seems happy considering what it just went through:
OP
OP
Generally happy-enough fish. The only fish that isn't really swimming much is the puffer.
RobertP
Guest
Looks great. Never mention the scratches again and no one will see them.
OP
OP
Slowly making progress. Just life continues and I can only get to this when I have time. I have most of the electronics under the tank mounted. I have a few small USB cables ordered which arrive today to connect the two EB832's and Apex Classic together.
My 3D printers thermistor started giving irregular values so I had to shut it down while I was printing stuff for the tank. Got a replacement one in and working on Sunday and have been printing most of the day.
Dose Holder:
Probe Holder (The big holes are threaded (temp / ph ) so that a M5 screw can be thumb tightened on it. On the far right there's a small (2.5mm) hole that is for a titanium grounding probe (I've had stuff short before and kill off many things):
Then within the sump waterbox made a ATO water spot... which I don't like. I am going to turn that into a refugium. To help regulate the water flow and prevent the chaeto from all floating everywhere I am building a little weir that sits on top... Made a sizing test one:
My thought process is that it gets clogged, the water can still go over the top of it without "leaving the sump". So I'll give it a try. It'll go around all the interior walls of the sump. Some will flow back into the skimmer chamber while some will flow directly into the return pump.
This will get water from a manifold on the return pump.
My 3D printers thermistor started giving irregular values so I had to shut it down while I was printing stuff for the tank. Got a replacement one in and working on Sunday and have been printing most of the day.
Dose Holder:
Probe Holder (The big holes are threaded (temp / ph ) so that a M5 screw can be thumb tightened on it. On the far right there's a small (2.5mm) hole that is for a titanium grounding probe (I've had stuff short before and kill off many things):
Then within the sump waterbox made a ATO water spot... which I don't like. I am going to turn that into a refugium. To help regulate the water flow and prevent the chaeto from all floating everywhere I am building a little weir that sits on top... Made a sizing test one:
My thought process is that it gets clogged, the water can still go over the top of it without "leaving the sump". So I'll give it a try. It'll go around all the interior walls of the sump. Some will flow back into the skimmer chamber while some will flow directly into the return pump.
This will get water from a manifold on the return pump.
TriggerFan
Guest
FYI - You know those cables to connect the EB832 to your Apex are NOT USB cables right?
They are proprietary cables. Neptune systems say using USB cables will damage the products and will void your warranty.
They are proprietary cables. Neptune systems say using USB cables will damage the products and will void your warranty.
RobertP
Guest
Yeah the more I use Neptune stuff the more it pisses me off. It wouldn't have taken any extra programming for them to use standard USB cables and just told people they were not true usb ports. Sorry I am carrying neptune baggage...and I am pretty sure my DOS has a bad motor and is out of warranty....
OP
OP
Thanks for the tip I actually did not know that and have been plugging them in with generic usb cables for years. Who in their right mind would make it appear by all means USB and not be compatible.
From what I have read online it's more of an issue at long lengths that can cause problems. Long USB cables tend to have repeaters and thus where the problem stems from. Since these are only 1-1.5 feet I doubt that'll be a problem. All my stuff is out of warranty anyways... they actually can't fix classic's anymore they said. They don't have the components for most of the issues.
Maybe this will be my excuse for the new Apex if this breaks.
OP
OP
Moved the tank this morning before work.
Barely fits in this area, but that's why I wanted a tank this size. I could have had another 4" deeper tank and been flush but this is probably enough. I like the overall size and it fits there very nicely.
The only issue is to the left of the tank is the gas line for the fireplace. So I bought another key from Home Depot and bent it.
Now I can still control the fireplace gas. (I actually run it a lot, fireplaces feels like home to me...)
Barely fits in this area, but that's why I wanted a tank this size. I could have had another 4" deeper tank and been flush but this is probably enough. I like the overall size and it fits there very nicely.
The only issue is to the left of the tank is the gas line for the fireplace. So I bought another key from Home Depot and bent it.
Now I can still control the fireplace gas. (I actually run it a lot, fireplaces feels like home to me...)
OP
OP
I started aquascaping, but honestly feeling I will go very light this time. The last few tanks have been over-full of rocks and thus the fish don't have as much area to swim. So I may go really light, and then buy a few of those marine pure blocks to put in the tank as they "supposedly" can replace a lot of live rock with how porous they are.
I am going to run an island design though, keep the anemone's on the right side of the tank, on their own island and hope they don't cross...
I am going to run an island design though, keep the anemone's on the right side of the tank, on their own island and hope they don't cross...
Best decision I made was running less rock and islands. If I could do it over I would have the rock work only go 1/4 to 1/2 height of tank.
OP
OP
Are you running blocks like marine pure or anything?
Nope, Prob like 40-70 lbs of live rock total and refugium. I would be surprised if it was over that. Problem with mine is I made them to tall. If I had to do it over it would be shorter, bare bottom, and I would prob make a bridge across the two main sections.
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OP
OP
So progress has been made...
On tuesday I went on a buying spree. Bought a bag of Chaeto w/ Pods from PodYourReef. I may buy more pods from them, but I am worried about the potential to bring in diseases, esp since I am going through so much effort to ensure the tank is disease free. That's currently in my Coral / Invert QT tank which has zero diseases. Has never had Aiptasia and has never had fish. The only thing I've ever put in the tank without going through CoralRX or something along those lines. Since its supposed to be "clean".
Bought two "blocks" of Marine pure, and one "Plate". I bought way more than needed... as you'll see I went really light on the live rock.
Working on my order of peppermint shrimp for my old tank that is going fallow to help hopefully solve the Aiptasia problem. In the end I have a CBB that is super aggressive at eating (he eats from my hands) that'll go in the tank so even if Aiptasia does make it in, I hope he'll destroy it.
Now to what everyone wants to see...
Cycle started with seeding it with about 10 Marine Pure balls that were in the Invert QT. Will start testing for Ammonia / Nitrite today.
ToDo:
-Screen Top Build
-Acrylic / PolyCarb Lid cut and designed
-Bigger heater (250w isn't keeping temp above 76. Planning on a 300w titanium from BRS then keep the 250 as a backup in the tank).
-Build VOSS Dose Containers
-Hook up ATO / doser
On tuesday I went on a buying spree. Bought a bag of Chaeto w/ Pods from PodYourReef. I may buy more pods from them, but I am worried about the potential to bring in diseases, esp since I am going through so much effort to ensure the tank is disease free. That's currently in my Coral / Invert QT tank which has zero diseases. Has never had Aiptasia and has never had fish. The only thing I've ever put in the tank without going through CoralRX or something along those lines. Since its supposed to be "clean".
Bought two "blocks" of Marine pure, and one "Plate". I bought way more than needed... as you'll see I went really light on the live rock.
Working on my order of peppermint shrimp for my old tank that is going fallow to help hopefully solve the Aiptasia problem. In the end I have a CBB that is super aggressive at eating (he eats from my hands) that'll go in the tank so even if Aiptasia does make it in, I hope he'll destroy it.
Now to what everyone wants to see...
Cycle started with seeding it with about 10 Marine Pure balls that were in the Invert QT. Will start testing for Ammonia / Nitrite today.
ToDo:
-Screen Top Build
-Acrylic / PolyCarb Lid cut and designed
-Bigger heater (250w isn't keeping temp above 76. Planning on a 300w titanium from BRS then keep the 250 as a backup in the tank).
-Build VOSS Dose Containers
-Hook up ATO / doser
Looking good, I like the amount of rock and lay out.
OP
OP
Yesterday:
-Built Screen Top frame (had to design a 3d printed reversed corner). Need to add the screen to it.
-Added a valve on the air-line for skimmer (been reading about how to tune them properly).
Today
-Added the Marine Pure Blocks (2) and Plate (1).
-Hooked up ATO & half of the doser. Still need new containers that will fit the area in the stand.
-Tested Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate 0/0/0. I put in a full cube of frozen mysis on Tuesday and yesterday. I am wondering if there's enough bacteria on the 10 or so Marine Pure sphere's that it isn't going through a cycle?
-Built Screen Top frame (had to design a 3d printed reversed corner). Need to add the screen to it.
-Added a valve on the air-line for skimmer (been reading about how to tune them properly).
Today
-Added the Marine Pure Blocks (2) and Plate (1).
-Hooked up ATO & half of the doser. Still need new containers that will fit the area in the stand.
-Tested Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate 0/0/0. I put in a full cube of frozen mysis on Tuesday and yesterday. I am wondering if there's enough bacteria on the 10 or so Marine Pure sphere's that it isn't going through a cycle?
OP
OP
So it's been a busy few days.
On Tuesday
Water Tests:
Sunday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Monday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Wednesday: 0.25 Ammonia (or whatever the lowest level on the chart is) / 0 Nitrite
Thursday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Since I added those biospheres to help with the cycle I am assuming it is "cycled". I moved two anemone's from the Old DT (16 days QT process for anemone's per: Humblefish's post). Although I am a little hesitant about the 16 day period being 100% safe.
My thought process is let's say the ich is in the Tomonts stage, and then it hatches and is a free swimmer. At this point the anemone can "absorb" it. While rinsing the anemone is probably going to remove them, there's still a chance it doesn't remove every free swimmer and thus when you introduce the anemone to the new tank those free-swimmers can get out and into the water of the new tank. Since the old DT had Ich we can assume that there was ich in the tomonts stage and if it's hatching all the time, then there is likely still Ich in the free-swimming stage even with a 16 day fishless environment.
So instead of moving the two clownfish into that tank today, I am going to just keep the two anemone's in there for 48 hours without any fish so that if there is any chance of a Ich in the free swimming stage of it's lifecycle it won't have the opportunity to attach to any fish and it will die off. I think that's the safest plan to ensure there's no Ich. I've heard this time frame is 12-18 hours and 48. So I figure 48 is the safer choice.
On Tuesday
- Received order from Saltybottomreefcompany of 20 peppermint shrimp
- These went into the old Display Tank, and over the first night all the Aiptasia I was aware of was eaten by them.
- I am feeding a very small amount, to keep them alive but hopefully they continue to hunt Anastasia until April when the fallow period is complete.
- Drove up to see @Cody and picked up my Jason Fox order... and moved it into the Coral / Invert QT tank.
- On the way back I stopped at OLA and picked up a Golden Dwarf Angel and put him into the Fish QT tank.
- He's eating, but being picked up by the maroon clown.
Water Tests:
Sunday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Monday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Wednesday: 0.25 Ammonia (or whatever the lowest level on the chart is) / 0 Nitrite
Thursday: 0 Ammonia / 0 Nitrite
Since I added those biospheres to help with the cycle I am assuming it is "cycled". I moved two anemone's from the Old DT (16 days QT process for anemone's per: Humblefish's post). Although I am a little hesitant about the 16 day period being 100% safe.
My thought process is let's say the ich is in the Tomonts stage, and then it hatches and is a free swimmer. At this point the anemone can "absorb" it. While rinsing the anemone is probably going to remove them, there's still a chance it doesn't remove every free swimmer and thus when you introduce the anemone to the new tank those free-swimmers can get out and into the water of the new tank. Since the old DT had Ich we can assume that there was ich in the tomonts stage and if it's hatching all the time, then there is likely still Ich in the free-swimming stage even with a 16 day fishless environment.
So instead of moving the two clownfish into that tank today, I am going to just keep the two anemone's in there for 48 hours without any fish so that if there is any chance of a Ich in the free swimming stage of it's lifecycle it won't have the opportunity to attach to any fish and it will die off. I think that's the safest plan to ensure there's no Ich. I've heard this time frame is 12-18 hours and 48. So I figure 48 is the safer choice.
Dang thats a lot of peps.
OP
OP
Free shipping
Plus I wanted to make sure they did the job.
ITreefer
Supporting Member
Let me know if they need a new foraging ground when they're done in your tank...Free shipping
