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Zoas in Trouble, Please Make Suggestions

webster1234

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Sometimes it helps to put a zip tie around the base of the bulb so that it doesn't blow off when you squeeze it hard.
 

mitchell77546

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Pulling them out and giving them a light brushing works really good. I had some that were closed for almost a week and that’s what I did. They opened up in 24 hrs after I brushed them.


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PicassoClown

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I agree about the pest thing, I bet there’s something eating them with the amount of regression you’re seeing.

For the algae, I’d do an H202 dip. I like 1:1 tank water to H202 for 1 minute but you can do 1:2 for 5 minutes etc. I do the dip, then brush lightly with a toothbrush or spoolie (eyebrow/eyelash brush, usually disposable). I like the spoolies because they’re disposable, pretty stiff so they’re good for brushing the plug, and small enough to get into the space between the zoas and the plug. I actually did the H202 dip on a new zoa just because I saw some bubble algae on the plug (I am NOT going through that again) and a bunch of zoa bugs came out (like small brown specks). I dipped again last week and no zoa bugs so I guess the dip killed them all?

I would dip the plugs just to remove the possibility of tiny zoa pests and to take care of the algae. I like dipping in a clear container on a white surface, all the pests are clearly visible at the bottom of the cup if they fall off.
 

SCUBAFreaky

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For the algae, I’d do an H202 dip. I like 1:1 tank water to H202 for 1 minute but you can do 1:2 for 5 minutes etc.
Clarification question, for the 5 minute dip, you used 2 parts tank water to 1 part peroxide?

I actually did the H202 dip on a new zoa just because I saw some bubble algae on the plug (I am NOT going through that again) and a bunch of zoa bugs came out (like small brown specks). I dipped again last week and no zoa bugs so I guess the dip killed them all?
Just curious, when you did the 2nd dip, it was also in peroxide and not just a coral dip?
 

Cody

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My thought would be zoa eating nudibranch or Astrenia Starfish! I had the same issue not too long ago. I started looking at my tank a few hrs after lights out with a red flashlight and spotted several or these nuisance starfish cupped over the top of my zoas like little mushroom caps Took about a week of manually removing them, but things bounced back quickly.
I remember setting up your calcium reactor and you saying you had removed maybe hundreds. I had never heard of those starfish eating zoas.
 

Cody

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It seems like you’ve done ICP tests. Out of curiosity, what was your iodine?
 

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I had never heard of those starfish eating zoas.
I'm with you, I've never heard of those starfish eating Zoas either. I'm hoping I'll find something else eating my zoas tonight!

It seems like you’ve done ICP tests. Out of curiosity, what was your iodine?
Iodine was 46 microgram/L (ppb). Triton says the target should be 60 ppb.
 

Cody

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I'm with you, I've never heard of those starfish eating Zoas either. I'm hoping I'll find something else eating my zoas tonight!


Iodine was 46 microgram/L (ppb). Triton says the target should be 60 ppb.
I had a two hour conversation this evening/morning with a fellow reefer. I recorded the whole thing and it might be published if I can figure out to do so. We touched on the issue you’re dealing with. Long story short, sometimes coral do things that we can’t predict and then they don’t. If only the corals could talk.
 

SCUBAFreaky

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Here’s the thread I usually refer to when I need to dip something :) Coral Dip Guide
Posting here for my own reference...

From Silent on R2R:
Peroxide 3% - Algae, 1:1 sw to H2O2 with zoas and some LPS for 1 minute, or 10:1 for 5 minutes, or 20:1 for 10 minutes. I have dipped the entire plug up to the base of sps in straight H2O2 to remove algae without ill effects. Peroxide dipping is highly debated. Start slow and use in a manner you are comfortable using it.​
 

PicassoClown

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Following, keep this one going I’m keeping almost nothing but zoas.


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Me too, I have at least 75 varieties at this point. If anything should ever happen to them like what’s happening to scuba’s I’d really love to know how to help them! I hope we figure out what’s going on here, it hurts to see zoas not doing well :(
 

sneezebeetle

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I'm with you, I've never heard of those starfish eating Zoas either. I'm hoping I'll find something else eating my zoas tonight!


Iodine was 46 microgram/L (ppb). Triton says the target should be 60 ppb.
Iodine is very important for zoa growth. If your Iodine is below the optimal reference range, that may also be a key part of the puzzle.
 

mitchell77546

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Iodine is very important for zoa growth. If your Iodine is below the optimal reference range, that may also be a key part of the puzzle.
I have read that as well. I can’t imagine trying to dose for it. I was looking into the process you have to be very careful from what I understand PPB (parts per billion) is an extremely small amount


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webster1234

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I agree with Deanna. Iodine is very important. It is hard to test for which makes it a pain. If you decide to dose iodine, my advice is this:
1. Pick a brand and STICK WITH IT!!!! I have crunched the numbers on several different products (I have a chemistry degree), Salifert, Brightwell, Two Little Fishies, etc. I can tell you this, they all have DIFFERENT concentrations. So 1 mL if Salifert iodine is different than 1 mL of Brightwell.
2. I chose Brightwell Iodide because as far as concentration goes, it gives you the most bang for the buck. It has twice the concentration of the Salifert product (the one I tested) and Salifert was almost twice as expensive.
3. If you follow Brightwell's dosing instructions on the bottle, I found it to be pretty accurate, at least for what my tank needed.

I would recommend dosing it according to instructions and following up with an ICP test in about 4 weeks to make sure you aren't overdosing. Because as stated above, too much can kill your corals.
 

SCUBAFreaky

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Any heavy metals (copper) reported on your ICP?

What fish do you have in the tank?
Copper read zero from the ICP.

Fish stock:

2 Ocellaris Clownfish
2 Three Stripe Damselfish
Tomini Tang
Red Stripe Angelfish
Melanurus Wrasse
Spotted Mandarin
2 Scissortail Dartfish
Neon Goby
 

SCUBAFreaky

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I agree with Deanna. Iodine is very important. It is hard to test for which makes it a pain. If you decide to dose iodine, my advice is this:
1. Pick a brand and STICK WITH IT!!!! I have crunched the numbers on several different products (I have a chemistry degree), Salifert, Brightwell, Two Little Fishies, etc. I can tell you this, they all have DIFFERENT concentrations. So 1 mL if Salifert iodine is different than 1 mL of Brightwell.
2. I chose Brightwell Iodide because as far as concentration goes, it gives you the most bang for the buck. It has twice the concentration of the Salifert product (the one I tested) and Salifert was almost twice as expensive.
3. If you follow Brightwell's dosing instructions on the bottle, I found it to be pretty accurate, at least for what my tank needed.

I would recommend dosing it according to instructions and following up with an ICP test in about 4 weeks to make sure you aren't overdosing. Because as stated above, too much can kill your corals.
This is awesome feedback!! So I have ZERO sense at all if 46 ppb is actually low or not and could be the cause of my problems. It would be awesome if this is really the issue. I just Amazon'd Brightwell's Iodion. It will be here to tomorrow.

I'm really surprised that I have any trace elements that are low with all of the water changes I've been doing. I've also dosed Brightwell's Replenish a couple of times. I didn't see any improvement so I haven't stuck with it. Maybe that's been a mistake.
 
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