-
Welcome back Guest!MARSH is a private reefing group. Comments and suggestions are encouraged, but please keep them positive and constructive. Negative threads, posts, or attacks will be removed from view and reviewed by the staff. Continually disruptive, argumentative, or flagrant rule breakers may be suspended or banned.
Boiling Rock - Hair Algae (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mikezoch
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Users who are viewing this thread
cstewart79
Supporting Member
I would not do this, I would take off as much algae as possible then place in a trash can with salt water and leave the lid and starve it from light.
Ophiura
Guest
I have to agree...I wouldn't boil it. Might as well start with DIY cement rock at that point. It seems a pity to do though I guess desperation can get there.
Hair algae needs light and nutrients, both of which you can control in other ways. I would swish it around in saltwater and take a pump with a hose to blow out any holes in the rock. Scrub it with a toothbrush to get the algae off, then into clean salt water in a trash can with circulation and no light.
Hair algae needs light and nutrients, both of which you can control in other ways. I would swish it around in saltwater and take a pump with a hose to blow out any holes in the rock. Scrub it with a toothbrush to get the algae off, then into clean salt water in a trash can with circulation and no light.
I've actually boiled my live rocks and started from scratch. i scrubbed it like crazy and I basically let it boil for a 5 minutes and it turned green and white. So now its dead rock. i let it sit in circulatede saltwater for 2 weeks and it turned back to color. It's in my tank now cycling. The best way is take the advice above and really figure out why you have hair algae.
Thanks for the suggestions. Although I asked my question after I started boiling them - should I have an issue in the future I will take this advice.
The rock I boiled were like cousin It. I got the rocks from another Marsh member who had disassembled their tank. All told I boiled about 40 lbs of the 150lbs I have in my tank.
I was afraid that if I allowed it to go on much longer it might spread.
My PO4 is less than .03 using a new Salifert test kit and my NO4 is below 30ppm. The algae was still growing due to the NO4 and my lights being on longer than they should (really have to get a timer).
I can say this boiled rocks aren't pretty, but neither is a cousin It rock.
The rock I boiled were like cousin It. I got the rocks from another Marsh member who had disassembled their tank. All told I boiled about 40 lbs of the 150lbs I have in my tank.
I was afraid that if I allowed it to go on much longer it might spread.
My PO4 is less than .03 using a new Salifert test kit and my NO4 is below 30ppm. The algae was still growing due to the NO4 and my lights being on longer than they should (really have to get a timer).
I can say this boiled rocks aren't pretty, but neither is a cousin It rock.
galvezsurfer33
Guest
i let a rock with majanos sit out in the sun for a week (still out there)
Isn't that like PBITAWA?
Not sure I want white rocks, all I really wanted to do is rid the tank of the hair algae.
How long are you soaking in bleach? What concentration are you using? Why bleach? Aren't you concerned with bleach in your tank when it comes time to introduce the rock to your tank?
The rocks will be come live rock soon enough.
Not sure I want white rocks, all I really wanted to do is rid the tank of the hair algae.
How long are you soaking in bleach? What concentration are you using? Why bleach? Aren't you concerned with bleach in your tank when it comes time to introduce the rock to your tank?
The rocks will be come live rock soon enough.
I didnt necessarily "want" white rocks, but i dont want any algae either..
been soaking since saturday night, so 2 days of soaking in a tub of FW an bleach.
dont know what concentration, didnt really measure lol.. its enough but not alot if that makes a sense (somewhere in between a pinch and a handful if you were baking a cake )
why bleach? because i heard ajax doesnt work
No I am not concerned that it will be re-introduced.. my tank is weeks/months away from being ready so it will be plenty of time..
I will soak in FW and dechlorinator for 2 days changing water out this time and then stick them in my shed to dry for a few days. once they are dry , i will put them in a large tank with saltwater and let them start cooking in my garage.
been soaking since saturday night, so 2 days of soaking in a tub of FW an bleach.
dont know what concentration, didnt really measure lol.. its enough but not alot if that makes a sense (somewhere in between a pinch and a handful if you were baking a cake
)why bleach? because i heard ajax doesnt work
No I am not concerned that it will be re-introduced.. my tank is weeks/months away from being ready so it will be plenty of time..
I will soak in FW and dechlorinator for 2 days changing water out this time and then stick them in my shed to dry for a few days. once they are dry , i will put them in a large tank with saltwater and let them start cooking in my garage.
i've heard about the bleach but didn't know how long it would take to get all the bleach back off since its in the pores. Since i've boiled my rocks 2 weeks ago..it got some color back and isn't green. a little white and brownish.
G
Guest
The trick to bleach is to let them airate for more then 24hours after using bleach. Giving ampable time for the bleach to evaporate. I used to do this all the time for my job when we used fake rock/plants. Works like a charm.
G
Guest
Ohh and of course you want to run a FW rinse over the bleached rock after its sat out to evaporate.
chriskb3
Guest
I would recommend "cooking" your rock first (It's a phrase, not with heat). All this basically means is that you let the rock sit in a covered tub (no light) of saltwater with a powerhead. Every couple of weeks, you do a complete water change, you will see all the gunk from the rock sitting at the bottom of the tub. After a couple of months, you come out with very clean LIVE rock that will not grow more algae.
What this basically does is, allows the bacteria within the rock to consume all the detrius and phosphates which is causing the algae growth in the first place.
If you need clean rock, faster, I would go with the bleaching route. You are left with clean PO4-less rock because the chlorine eliminates the phosphates. Chlorine evaporates very well, so as long as you rinse the rock and let it air dry for a while, it should be fine to use.
What this basically does is, allows the bacteria within the rock to consume all the detrius and phosphates which is causing the algae growth in the first place.
If you need clean rock, faster, I would go with the bleaching route. You are left with clean PO4-less rock because the chlorine eliminates the phosphates. Chlorine evaporates very well, so as long as you rinse the rock and let it air dry for a while, it should be fine to use.
ie:
^after 48hrs soaking in bleach and FW. rocks were covered in hair algae and bubble algae and smelled nice
I can see why someone who has NO liverock at all wouldnt want to do this , but for me this isnt an issue.. I just wanted a clean slate and I am in no rush but I dont have months for it die off
^after 48hrs soaking in bleach and FW. rocks were covered in hair algae and bubble algae and smelled nice
I can see why someone who has NO liverock at all wouldnt want to do this , but for me this isnt an issue.. I just wanted a clean slate and I am in no rush but I dont have months for it die off
hogie
Guest
ROCK
Hope this help.
Aquaria
An unsightly, green alga that herbivores dislike to eat.
© Heather Allan
Apr 17, 2008
Information and tips for eradication of the nuisance algae Bryopsis, indicating high levels of dissolved nutrients in the aquarium.
Bryopsis - What Is It?
Bryopsis is a common nuisance alga that can overgrow corals and other desirable algae by outcompeting with them for nutrients. It is generally dark green, coming from the Chlorophyta division, and can be either spiky or filamentous. It is a sure sign of high levels of nitrates, though often, the nitrates are not detectable because they are being uptaken by the Bryopsis itself. Therefore, if you do have detectable levels, think how much more would be released should the alga go sexual, that is, to re-release the nutrients into the tank. To the inexperienced eye, Bryopsis can even resemble some kind of urchin. It is not generally known to produce allelopathogens, but this is up for debate amongst some experts. In any case, it is not recommended to increase your bio-load at this point for obvious reasons.
Little Palm Trees in the Reef
The most common characteristic of this alga is the fernlike fronds resembling feathers, and it is therefore hard to distinguish it from some species of Caulerpa or Derbesia. However, in either case, the treatment for eradication is the same. The easiest way to tell it apart from other algae is testing to see how difficult it is to physically remove. Bryopsis tends to burrow deeply into a rock crevice where it can feed off nutrient-rich detritus, and so, it will take a little strength to pluck out.
What's Eating You?
Most herbivores will not eat this alga. In a mature tank, Bryopsis can take over, smothering all stationary life forms. Some tangs, such as those from the Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus families may keep it in control, but because the pest can be embedded in the rock quite deeply, it can come right back. If you have a large tank, a Naso tang would also enjoy eating it. Other fish known to be willing to try this alga are: the lawnmower or algae blenny and the bi-colour blenny. However, the aquarist’s preferred method of natural removal seems to be with Diadema urchins, Elysia Nudibranches, and even common pincushion urchins. Emerald Mithrax and some hermit crabs can also help do battle, but depending on the size of your outbreak, you may need many of them. For example, the Tridachia Crispa (Sea Lettuce Slug) is a specialist feeder of Bryopsis but it will most assuredly die once the outbreak has been contained. Therefore, you have a responsibility to these animals to ensure them a new home with enough to eat.
Trendy Magnesium Solution
Some reports of a Bryopsis bloom mysteriously correct themselves over time and in fact, may disappear altogether where water quality is kept in good standing. This may go a ways in understanding why some people are insisting in the latest trend of elevating the levels of magnesium from the normal range (1,280 ppm) to 1,500 – 1,600 ppm. Most aquarists who have tried this method feel it is the fastest and least detrimental way to correct the dilemma. The theory behind this is that the magnesium stops the photosynthetic processes in the Bryopsis, but does this without affecting other desirable macros and life in the reef. There are some, though, that suspect the elevated levels of magnesium can kill desirable invertebrates, so as with most things in reef keeping, slow is best. Also, ask yourself, would you rather chance losing some snails or some corals?
The pH Solution
A similar method to try is while aggressively protein skimming, elevate your pH to a steady 8.5 for three weeks. It would seem that low ph/alkalinity ratios seem to aggravate an outbreak.
Ads by Google
Jet Powered Pool Brush
Best Swimming Pool and Sidewalk Brush at any price on sale $19.95
www.PoolWand.ComCrystal Clear Pond Water
Use Crystal Green Water Treatment Removes Green Algae Fast!
www.pondclearproducts.com
Freeze Them Off
Finally, there is the simple method of removing affected rocks from the tank and placing them in the freezer for forty-eight hours or more. This is an understandable nuisance and may not even be possible if aqua-structure or coral life will not allow. The process will burst the cellular structure of the alga, thereby killing it. At this point, it would be advisable to brush off/manually remove any remaining visible pieces before returning the piece to the display.
Read more: http://fish.suite101.com/article.cfm/bryopsis_a_common_pest_in_aquaria#ixzz0UgkpbcBL
Hope this help.
Aquaria
An unsightly, green alga that herbivores dislike to eat.
© Heather Allan
Apr 17, 2008
Information and tips for eradication of the nuisance algae Bryopsis, indicating high levels of dissolved nutrients in the aquarium.
Bryopsis - What Is It?
Bryopsis is a common nuisance alga that can overgrow corals and other desirable algae by outcompeting with them for nutrients. It is generally dark green, coming from the Chlorophyta division, and can be either spiky or filamentous. It is a sure sign of high levels of nitrates, though often, the nitrates are not detectable because they are being uptaken by the Bryopsis itself. Therefore, if you do have detectable levels, think how much more would be released should the alga go sexual, that is, to re-release the nutrients into the tank. To the inexperienced eye, Bryopsis can even resemble some kind of urchin. It is not generally known to produce allelopathogens, but this is up for debate amongst some experts. In any case, it is not recommended to increase your bio-load at this point for obvious reasons.
Little Palm Trees in the Reef
The most common characteristic of this alga is the fernlike fronds resembling feathers, and it is therefore hard to distinguish it from some species of Caulerpa or Derbesia. However, in either case, the treatment for eradication is the same. The easiest way to tell it apart from other algae is testing to see how difficult it is to physically remove. Bryopsis tends to burrow deeply into a rock crevice where it can feed off nutrient-rich detritus, and so, it will take a little strength to pluck out.
What's Eating You?
Most herbivores will not eat this alga. In a mature tank, Bryopsis can take over, smothering all stationary life forms. Some tangs, such as those from the Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus families may keep it in control, but because the pest can be embedded in the rock quite deeply, it can come right back. If you have a large tank, a Naso tang would also enjoy eating it. Other fish known to be willing to try this alga are: the lawnmower or algae blenny and the bi-colour blenny. However, the aquarist’s preferred method of natural removal seems to be with Diadema urchins, Elysia Nudibranches, and even common pincushion urchins. Emerald Mithrax and some hermit crabs can also help do battle, but depending on the size of your outbreak, you may need many of them. For example, the Tridachia Crispa (Sea Lettuce Slug) is a specialist feeder of Bryopsis but it will most assuredly die once the outbreak has been contained. Therefore, you have a responsibility to these animals to ensure them a new home with enough to eat.
Trendy Magnesium Solution
Some reports of a Bryopsis bloom mysteriously correct themselves over time and in fact, may disappear altogether where water quality is kept in good standing. This may go a ways in understanding why some people are insisting in the latest trend of elevating the levels of magnesium from the normal range (1,280 ppm) to 1,500 – 1,600 ppm. Most aquarists who have tried this method feel it is the fastest and least detrimental way to correct the dilemma. The theory behind this is that the magnesium stops the photosynthetic processes in the Bryopsis, but does this without affecting other desirable macros and life in the reef. There are some, though, that suspect the elevated levels of magnesium can kill desirable invertebrates, so as with most things in reef keeping, slow is best. Also, ask yourself, would you rather chance losing some snails or some corals?
The pH Solution
A similar method to try is while aggressively protein skimming, elevate your pH to a steady 8.5 for three weeks. It would seem that low ph/alkalinity ratios seem to aggravate an outbreak.
Ads by Google
Jet Powered Pool Brush
Best Swimming Pool and Sidewalk Brush at any price on sale $19.95
www.PoolWand.ComCrystal Clear Pond Water
Use Crystal Green Water Treatment Removes Green Algae Fast!
www.pondclearproducts.com
Freeze Them Off
Finally, there is the simple method of removing affected rocks from the tank and placing them in the freezer for forty-eight hours or more. This is an understandable nuisance and may not even be possible if aqua-structure or coral life will not allow. The process will burst the cellular structure of the alga, thereby killing it. At this point, it would be advisable to brush off/manually remove any remaining visible pieces before returning the piece to the display.
Read more: http://fish.suite101.com/article.cfm/bryopsis_a_common_pest_in_aquaria#ixzz0UgkpbcBL
