This tank has been running for over a year. I have never had low KH and havnt had detectable nitrates since its cycle? I did a store bought water change (5g on a 29g bio) a couple days ago and the next day bought an anemone the next day. Past 2 days the anemone hasnt looked very good so I just checked the water and KH was low (some where around 80) PH was way low (7.5ish) and there was slightly detectable nitrates. Could this be the water that I bought or is the anemone dead and its messing the water up? Everyone else seems fine, mandrin is swiming around as usual, clowns keep flirting with eachother. Any ideas? I added some PH buffer to bring the PH back up ( I tend to have to do this for some reason I cant keep a stable PH)
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Low KH and detectable nitrates? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dayton
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KyleH
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I would also start testing for amonia. Decomposition of too much food, dead fish, or dead / dying corals will release ammonia. Ammonia turns into Nitrite, then to Nitrate, then the live rocks in your system converts that to Nitrogen gas that leaves the system (slowly).
All that stuff lowers your PH, lower PH, lowers your KH, low KH pushes calcium and Mg out of whack too. I would try to change 10-20% of your water if possible, until your PH, KH starts to return to normal. Try to find a dead fish that may have been stung by the nem, maybe the nem is eating it and slowly decomposing, or maybe the nem is decomposing. You may want to take a turkey baster and blow gently on the nem, if it start peeling off and melting, then it may be a good idea to take him out if he is dying. (Maybe he didn't have a good ride back from the store. It has been hot lately, and sitting in the sunny part of a car may cause unnecessary warming that may have hurt it.)
After you get your ph and KH back, I recommend testing your calcium to make sure your levels stay at the normal level, if they drop, you may want to consider adding a little magnesium to help the Ca balance.
remember, do not mix KH and calcium together.....adding the stuff within 30min -1hr of each other neutralizes each other.
just a note, fish can tolerate low levels of nitrates. nitrate affects calcium formation, so most corals do not like nitrates. I couldn't tell if this was a fish only system.
-Kyle
All that stuff lowers your PH, lower PH, lowers your KH, low KH pushes calcium and Mg out of whack too. I would try to change 10-20% of your water if possible, until your PH, KH starts to return to normal. Try to find a dead fish that may have been stung by the nem, maybe the nem is eating it and slowly decomposing, or maybe the nem is decomposing. You may want to take a turkey baster and blow gently on the nem, if it start peeling off and melting, then it may be a good idea to take him out if he is dying. (Maybe he didn't have a good ride back from the store. It has been hot lately, and sitting in the sunny part of a car may cause unnecessary warming that may have hurt it.)
After you get your ph and KH back, I recommend testing your calcium to make sure your levels stay at the normal level, if they drop, you may want to consider adding a little magnesium to help the Ca balance.
remember, do not mix KH and calcium together.....adding the stuff within 30min -1hr of each other neutralizes each other.
just a note, fish can tolerate low levels of nitrates. nitrate affects calcium formation, so most corals do not like nitrates. I couldn't tell if this was a fish only system.
-Kyle
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What was the Salinity? Did you measure it or is it just "what they told you"?
That dKH is more of a fresh water level, if my conversion is correct 4.48dKH...am I totally missing something?
Fwiw-on the Ph end of things:
IMHO
Throw that Ph buffer in the trash. Ph buffers typically include additives that will raise your alkalinity, all to chase a number that normally swings. (I would rather keep Alk stable, and look for the root cause as why Ph may swinging lower than "acceptable" range).
When do you take your Ph reading? (beginning or end of light cycle, just after water change, in the jug before water change).
What did you use to test it?
Did you double check with different test kit?
That dKH is more of a fresh water level, if my conversion is correct 4.48dKH...am I totally missing something?
Fwiw-on the Ph end of things:
IMHO
Throw that Ph buffer in the trash. Ph buffers typically include additives that will raise your alkalinity, all to chase a number that normally swings. (I would rather keep Alk stable, and look for the root cause as why Ph may swinging lower than "acceptable" range).
When do you take your Ph reading? (beginning or end of light cycle, just after water change, in the jug before water change).
What did you use to test it?
Did you double check with different test kit?
I did notice my christmas wrasse has dissapeared. I tested the water at the end of the light cycle, after adding in the new water. I did not measure the salinity, iv not had a problem in the past with the water. I did not double check with a different test, I use the cheap (i know i need to upgrade) test strips and I use them because iv never had any problems in the past with water issues. I have salt mix (im at the end of my cycle on the new 180g) but im new to mixing my own salt. Should I just mix my own from now on?
Mix your own.....its easy. I do cause I'm one of those control freaks. Not saying its right or wrong. That way if things are wrong (Temp, Alk, Cal, Mg, Ph & s.g.) when i do a water change, I have no one to blame for a problem or crash but myself. I over-test and spend a lot on test kits, but in comparison to the overall cost of our obsession.....it's minuscule. Plus, buying new test kits regularly, provides an excuse for me to give to the Mrs. ---Need to make a trip to the fish/coral store
