Plumbing - Need Some Advice (1 Viewer)

[mikezoch]

I have almost everything I need to start putting my 120 together - but now its time to purchase a pump.

My tank has two holes drilled in the bottom - a 1 1/2 inch and a 1 inch. I have read where folks have used one for the main drain and one for an emergency drain - then just plumbing the return over the top of the tank. Anyone doing this and feel this is the way to go - or just use them as they were intended - one drain one return.

I'm confused about how much pump I need to buy. The 1 1/2 inch I believe can handle. According to the drain calculator on Reef Central - a 1 1/2 drain can handle 1200 GPH with a minimum linear overflow of 18 inches. I need to measure, but I'm pretty sure I fit in this range. A Mag 12 starts to look like the right pump for my tank. Does this sound about right? I can always restrict the flow with a gate valve.

About the actual plumbing - I have bought Ball Valve Unions I planed to attach (or with an adapter) directly to the bulkhead - from there to Spa Flex PVC. Is there anything I'm missing? Should I also include a Check Valve on the return to keep the water from draining when I loose power?

With a Mag 12 and 2 - Koralia 4s - I think I am pretty close to having enough flow - the big challenge will be to try and eliminate dead spots. I've been thinking of putting an "Y" PVC fitting on the return - then attaching 2 3/4 inch educators to get even more flow.

 

[trb]

Good questions, some of the same ones I've had. I'm still planning my setup, but since I drilled my own holes, I put in 3, main drain, emergency drain and return. I didn't want any pipes on the outside since I'm sure the tank will be moved away from the wall fairly often. I'm doing two overflows since I don't want to have any water overflowing the tank problems. I'm planning ball valves on the regular overflow (emergency should not need it) and also wondered on the check valves. I've seen them on people's systems, but have also read that they are prone to fail, so I've wondered about not even bothering and just relying on the suction break hole in the return line.

I was also thinking about doing a "Y" on the return plumbing, directing one towards the top section of water and one towards the bottom opposite corner.
I got some Loc Line from Citypets, but all they had was 1/2" which is probably OK for mine.

Since my tank is about 1/2 the size of yours, I'm using a Quiet one 4000 as a return pump and have about 12" of overflow. The Mag 12 does look to fit your desired flow between 4-5' head.

 

[mikezoch]

I have a 75 gallon tank setup now with overflow and when I turn off the pumps to feed my fish - the return drains until the suction breaks - the problem I see - is it fills my sump up and my protein skimmer sometimes goes nuts and floods the collection cup.

As far as the back flow preventer failing - I guess it is like anything else in the tank - needs a good cleaning every once in a while - like a dip in vinegar every 3 months.

Now I wish I had ordered my tank with 2 drains and 1 return.

 

[trb]

I see the point, didn't think about turing off the return pump to feed, but I have a HOB right now. I usually turn off my MJ and leave my Koralia on to keep the food suspended until the fish eat it. I guess that a backflow is a good idea then to prevent other things. I'm trying to make my plumbing as minimal as possible, to hopefully cut down on the maintenance.

As for the holes, it is not too late. If you have room inside the overflow box, just drill another one. I drilled all of mine and several guys on here have the diamond hole saws to drill the holes.

 

[mikezoch]

I guess I could drill another hole. I would have to increase the size of the overflow though as there is not enough room for another hole.

Have to give that some thought.

 

[mikezoch]

I wonder if - instead of drilling another hole - if putting a float switch might be the better solution - if it starts to over flow - a float switch could kill the sump pump.

 

[trb]

The return doesn't necessarily have to be in the overflow. I've thought about having my overflow only house the two outlets, and have the return pipe freestanding just outside the overflow box. But I just want the tank to be as clean looking as possible. I guess I could run a flex hose from the bulkhead, into the overflow box, cover it with rock, then up to an outlet at the top? Now you got me re- thinking things again, but better now than when it is full of fish.

If I use the overflow box I made, it will be more than I need and it is a bit large in the tank at 6"x9". I would prefer one about 6"x6" but I couldn't get 3 holes in it. My holes are staggered, two close to the back wall and the third further out in between the back two. As long as you have about 1-1/2" between the holes, they would be OK.

I also wondered about putting a "T" or "Y" in the primary overflow, right at the bottom of the tank and having 2 standpipes, one taller than the other. It won't increase overall flow, but it might help if the primary opening got blocked.

We could think this thing to death if we keep at it!

 

[mikezoch]

Keeping the water off the floor and in the tank/sump is my top priority - followed closely by good water movement in the tank.

Probably need to visit a couple of MARSH members tanks to get a better grip on this subject.

 

[flexrac]

your welcome to check mine out.

 

[mikezoch]

flexrac,

I would love to see yours - we have the same tank, except my overflows are the regular kind. PM me with good times to come and visit.

 

[jamesw]

Good questions - I just went through the same exercise for my tank. I would size your return pump based on the amount you want going through the sump, noise, and the amount of flow it can handle. You don't need a HUGE amount going through the sump, right? Maybe 700gph or so?

Are you sure you want to use a Mag pump for circulation? They heat the water up a lot which can be a problem in the summer. I perfer an air-cooled pump like an Iwaki or equivalent - but these require a drilled sump - which is no big deal IMO.

A main and backup drain sound like a good idea. And yes, a check valve is a good idea but you also need to do a "shut down siphon test" to see how much water can flow back to your sump in the event the check valve fails. That will depend on how deep in the tank your overflow is. I like the idea of using a separate self-made overflow - maybe some black or gray schedule 80 pvc?

Cheers
James

 

[decimal]

there was a long and lenghty discussion by those over achievers on reef central once... you can check it out here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1541946&highlight=overflow&page=2
very interesting read if you put in the time

 

[mikezoch]

Wow, nice - wish I read this before ordering my tank - oh well. Will make the best of what I have. The floor to ceiling overflow makes for a dead space, but I think I can get a power head in there.

 

[decimal]

im +1 with james on the mag pump. eheim is the way to go. they are rock solid internal or external and will run like they dont exist (i.e. super quiet and dependable)

 

[RR-MAN]

Even if you use a Mag pump I don't think you need a Mag 12. I'm running a Mag 7 on my 120. You can get a small overflow box and as long as it skims the surface of water that's all you need. The return should not be used for water circulation in the tank. The 2 K4's should be plenty for flow.

I also live in Katy so if you have time stop by to check out my tank.