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Is PAR bleaching a thing? (1 Viewer)

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alstang1

alstang1

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So I’m only worried about Nitrate. The other two valves really don’t apply unless the tank is brand new or something died in the system.

Definitely bring up the nitrate to about 3ppm and see what you observe. You can do this but turning off the skimmer for a bit each day, feeding more, dosing NaNO3, etc. I have a video I’ll link below on how to make your own. Excuse the audio issues:


What was said in this video is exactly what my tank is doing. Wish I had the product on hand. Is there any temp solution in Houston til that comes in? I’ll be in H-town Monday to collect clown fry.
 
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What was said in this video is exactly what my tank is doing. Wish I had the product on hand. Is there any temp solution in Houston til that comes in? I’ll be in H-town Monday to collect clown fry.
Yes, it’s called stump remover at Lowe’s or Home Depot. You got to be very careful and go super slow. The slow affect will get you if you don’t go slow. When you dose it has a lag effect.

The reason why we moved away from Stump Remover is because it’s not near as “pure” as Loud Wolf. 😉
 

Cody

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It’s N&P and the PAR is likely making it worse. The corals don’t have enough nutrition and will begin to fade and eventually die unless corrected. Increase the nutrients now, and take the skimmer offline for 50% of the day until you are getting nutrient readings. You also might need to start removing live rock until you find the sweet spot. Or add more fish. I bet I could fix that system within 3 days and have color coming back.
Bingo. The issue is not the light spectrum considering that all of the chlorophyll is activated by the blue spectrum, and is much more efficiently utilized by the blue spectrum than the red spectrum. This is not an issue of tweeking colors. It’s an issue of the dinoflagellate algae keeping the zooxanthellae alive via photosynthesis, and you need fertilizer to keep photosynthesis going.

Put it this way: your corals are engines that have solar panels that ignite the engines. Once these engines are going, they need fuel. The fuel is nitrogen, phosphorous, and carbon. The carbon is always available. Without the nitrogen (nitrates) and phosphorous (phosphates), the engines of photosynthesis, which provide 90%+ of the food source of the coral, stall out. Provide fuel to the engine or the coral can’t feed it self.
 
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alstang1

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Bingo. The issue is not the light spectrum considering that all of the chlorophyll is activated by the blue spectrum, and is much more efficiently utilized by the blue spectrum than the red spectrum. This is not an issue of tweeking colors. It’s an issue of the dinoflagellate algae keeping the zooxanthellae alive via photosynthesis, and you need fertilizer to keep photosynthesis going.

Put it this way: your corals are engines that have solar panels that ignite the engines. Once these engines are going, they need fuel. The fuel is nitrogen, phosphorous, and carbon. The carbon is always available. Without the nitrogen (nitrates) and phosphorous (phosphates), the engines of photosynthesis, which provide 90%+ of the food source of the coral, stall out. Provide fuel to the engine or the coral can’t feed it self.
That being said, this is what I have on hand…. Is any of it helpful short term until the chemicals (already ordered) arrive?
1. Home grown phyto
2. F2
3. Red Sea AB+
4. Copepods
5. Rotifers
6. 5 other tanks with readings other than zero
7. I also won the fritz package at the RC show that included every product fritz has other than nitrate and phosphate boosters.

I’m also running fritz carbon. I’m assuming the consensus is to remove that immediately.

I know these questions may sound ridiculous to you, but if I had a better understanding of photosynthesis than sun making food for plants I would not be asking. Thank you in advance for not annihilating me for this question.

Edit: wait a minute. I have powdered NPK something like 36-4-12 tomato 🍅 booster?????
 
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Cody

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That being said, this is what I have on hand…. Is any of it helpful short term until the chemicals (already ordered) arrive?
1. Home grown phyto
2. F2
3. Red Sea AB+
4. Copepods
5. Rotifers
6. 5 other tanks with readings other than zero
7. I also won the fritz package at the RC show that included every product fritz has other than nitrate and phosphate boosters.

I’m also running fritz carbon. I’m assuming the consensus is to remove that immediately.

I know these questions may sound ridiculous to you, but if I had a better understanding of photosynthesis than sun making food for plants I would not be asking. Thank you in advance for not annihilating me for this question.

Edit: wait a minute. I have powdered NPK something like 36-4-12 tomato 🍅 booster?????
In all this conversation, I don’t recall you mentioning your nitrate and phosphate levels. I assume they’re low based off of what I read, but these are two of the top three most important variables to measure. Don’t dose anything for now until you have a foundation of understanding of your tank parameters.
 
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alstang1

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In all this conversation, I don’t recall you mentioning your nitrate and phosphate levels. I assume they’re low based off of what I read, but these are two of the top three most important variables to measure. Don’t dose anything for now until you have a foundation of understanding of your tank parameters.
Yeah. I said nitrate 0 but did not mention phosphate 4.

I also neglected to mention I had a bio brick i the sump culturing for another tank.
 
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BigRick

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Q1
That being said, this is what I have on hand…. Is any of it helpful short term until the chemicals (already ordered) arrive?
1. Home grown phyto
2. F2
3. Red Sea AB+
4. Copepods
5. Rotifers
6. 5 other tanks with readings other than zero
7. I also won the fritz package at the RC show that included every product fritz has other than nitrate and phosphate boosters.

I’m also running fritz carbon. I’m assuming the consensus is to remove that immediately.

I know these questions may sound ridiculous to you, but if I had a better understanding of photosynthesis than sun making food for plants I would not be asking. Thank you in advance for not annihilating me for this question.

Edit: wait a minute. I have powdered NPK something like 36-4-12 tomato 🍅 booster????
Just dump the whole bottle in of AB+..... j/k. :spit:
 

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Bingo. The issue is not the light spectrum considering that all of the chlorophyll is activated by the blue spectrum, and is much more efficiently utilized by the blue spectrum than the red spectrum. This is not an issue of tweeking colors. It’s an issue of the dinoflagellate algae keeping the zooxanthellae alive via photosynthesis, and you need fertilizer to keep photosynthesis going.

Put it this way: your corals are engines that have solar panels that ignite the engines. Once these engines are going, they need fuel. The fuel is nitrogen, phosphorous, and carbon. The carbon is always available. Without the nitrogen (nitrates) and phosphorous (phosphates), the engines of photosynthesis, which provide 90%+ of the food source of the coral, stall out. Provide fuel to the engine or the coral can’t feed it self.
Well put!
 
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I was messing with Webster1234 because I know he’s running pellets. Definitely working for him, but he is a Chemist. Lol

I was carbon dosing with a Tropic Marin product called Reef Actif and it was working pretty well. It’s a fairly safe option.

F54FD8BA-AE06-46A2-8FC6-26EC368FEC85.jpeg
 

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Bio pellets! 🙂
Correct, it wasn't a question with a right of wrong answer but rather designed to promote thought on the topic.

Cody is pretty smart on this stuff and I agree with his concepts. I just feel the largest limiting factor in our tanks is carbon, and sadly the only one we can't test for. He indicated it is plentiful. I am wondering from where? Carbon is one of the largest, if not the largest, element in the makeup of living tissue. Nothing biological happens without the presence of carbon.

If you look at the redfield ratio in marine phytoplankton, that ratio is 106:16:1. That means for every 16 nitrogen atoms, you need one Phosphorus atom and 106 carbon atoms. Its easy to see how adding phosphate can lower nitrates, but that requires A LOT of carbon too.

Where do we get all of this carbon? And how do we know whether or not it is there since we can't test for it?
 
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webster1234

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And here is a little more food for thought. Nitrate is NO3, so for every nitrogen molecule, there are 3 oxygen molecules.
Phosphate is PO4. One phosphorus and 4 oxygens. What happens to all those extra oxygen molecules when the nitrogen and phosphorus are cleaved off and used?
Maybe they bond with some of those abundant carbon molecules to form CO2?
And without enough carbon, maybe the oxygen has no where to go? Oxygen is a free radical until it binds with something.
Carbon has a high affinity for oxygen so it may also aid in breaking the bond of the NO3 and PO4 so that the corals can utilize them.
Again....just something to think about...
 
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I know a guy that literally uses a sump, return pump, skimmer, light, wave makers, heater, and fish…and has the biggest corals ever. He swears that’s all you need. Same guy that owns that tiny elegance coral. :)

BF4D58D1-5841-4F8A-87B8-A2158C084515.jpeg 3C937C22-FE5A-4E82-9EE7-82D31200E6D0.jpeg
 

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I know a guy that literally uses a sump, return pump, skimmer, light, wave makers, heater, and fish…and has the biggest corals ever. He swears that’s all you need. Same guy that owns that tiny elegance coral. :)

BF4D58D1-5841-4F8A-87B8-A2158C084515.jpeg 3C937C22-FE5A-4E82-9EE7-82D31200E6D0.jpeg
That doesn't look like a LED over his tank.
 
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