Acclimating Naso Tang (1 Viewer)

[Guest]

I'm ready to get going on stocking the 135 with fish and am contemplating a Naso Tang. I've read about the difficulties in acclimating these guys and wanted run some queries by you guys.

I understand the importance of quarantine, but I would think in the case of species who are easily distressed, acclimating them to a quarantine tank and then again to the display would add extra stress. Although, I guess keeping the quarantine & display at the same parameters would help, but you're still moving the fish from ocean to wholesaler to LFS to quarantine to display. I would think that cutting out one of the "moves" for these finicky guys would be a good thing.

Also, what's the best method of acclimation? With my purchases over the years I've floated them and then slowly taken water out of the bag and replaced it with tank water. Would floating the Naso cause too much stress? Should I use a bucket or something?

I'm hoping to post some pics soon, but I can no longer FTP to my website from my office.

Thanks!

 

[Guest]

I would think that a Naso would be too small for your tank in the long run, especially if you buy an older one. These guys need LOTS of swimming room. IMO I wouldn't put one of those in anything less than a 240-gallon.

Read here... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm

 

[BrianPlankis]

Another move from Quarantine to Display can be more stressful, but I am a strong believer in quarantine. Just setup the quarantine tank with water from water changes from your display tank.

But back to your question, would directly to the display be less stressful? That depends on what you have in your display tank. Do you have any aggresive fish in the display, especially territorial fish? If the answer is yes or maybe, I would highly recommend quarantine. This allows the fish to get used to your water parameters and recover from all the moves, THEN face competing for tank space and food with your other fish.

My .02

 

[Guest]

I understand the importance of quarantine, but I would think in the case of species who are easily distressed, acclimating them to a quarantine tank and then again to the display would add extra stress. Although, I guess keeping the quarantine & display at the same parameters would help, but you're still moving the fish from ocean to wholesaler to LFS to quarantine to display. I would think that cutting out one of the "moves" for these finicky guys would be a good thing.

The question is... would you really want to risk infecting your display?

If done right, quarantining a fish shouldn't be too bad for them. The best thing to do is find out when your fish is going to be delivered to the LFS and ask them to not unbag him. This will prevent the fish from getting any diseases from the LFS, let alone having to deal with the change in parameters twice in such a short period of time.

 

[tvu]

I've had experience with 2 nasos(my current one is going on 1 1/2 years). My previous one I had for 3 years before going on business to Europe and coming back to a crashed tank with the only thing surviving(even my damsel died) was my yellow tang. Naso tangs are pretty hardy from my experience and from what i've read. I've done normal acclimation with no quarantine.

Good luck, great fish!

 

[Guest]

Thanks for your replies. The only fish/critters in the tank now are a lawnmower blenny, skunk cleaner, fire cleaner, brittle star, and a small yellow tang. I realize more than one surgeonfish is not a great idea but the yellow is fairly small, has been passive (so far) and being that they have different body shapes and colors gives them a better chance of getting along. Should I have problems I will move the Yellow Tang. I also plan on keeping the tank dimly lit for a few days. I'm not going to be housing very many fish. What I'm thinking of is

a few more blennies and gobies
6 Anthias
Pair of Skunk Clowns

From what I've read (even on your link Isis) is that a 6 foot tank would be adequate housing for one, but more than one would require hundreds of gallons.

Again, my concerns on quarantining this guy is moving him from tank to tank...that 2nd move could trigger the ich. Please know that I am not saying that quaranting is not a good idea for new purchases, I'm just concerned about the "finicky" ones. Isis' idea of taking delivery immediately from the LFS is an idea to ponder as well.

TVU how did your Naso and Yellow get along? How big is your tank?

Any additional tips would be most welcome!

 

[tvu]

I also have a fairly small yellow tang. I didn't have any problems since the Naso was larger than it. If the yellow does harass him, he will stop in few days. The yellow harrassed my smaller blue tang but stopped after a week. Now my blue tang is the size of my yellow tang.

Before any tang police get onto me, i want to say I've bought my tangs very small. My yellow tang(very gorgeous yellow and more beautiful than other's I've seen) has not grown but maybe a 1/2 inch in 5 years. My Naso hasn't grown at all in 1 1/2 years but my blue has doubled in 5-6 months. All get along well. I love tangs! I think yellow, blue and naso are probably the easiest to keep of the tang family.

The yellow and naso should be fine together. I also studied quite a bit before getting the naso and blue tangs.

Good Luck!

 

[Guest]

Thanks TVU. I'm trying to research my fish additions as much as I can...don't want my tank to be an aquatic version of "DEATH ROW".

Thanks for the info....my husband really wants a Powder Blue but I've read the Nasos are more docile. Does your Powder Blue pick on smaller fish or critters, like shrimp, etc.? How did you acclimate them?

 

[djreef]

How long has your 135 setup been going?

DJ
= 8-->{I>

 

[Guest]

The tank's been set up for 3 months, a lot of the LR I used was cured. I did have a pair of True Percs until a few weeks ago that I sold back to the LFS...I really want Skunk Clowns. I've had no ammonia or nitrate readings since the first month. The new tank algae bloom occurred a few weeks ago. Lots of areation (I read this is a important for these guys along with high water quality). Actually, the return to the sump causes so much foaming action that I almost have a "homemade" skimmer... I use a large fry ladle to scoop out the foam.

BTW.....I'm getting tiny air bubbles in the display, any tips on getting rid of these? Besides buying a smaller pump that is.

It would be another few weeks to a month before I would get the Tang. Do you think this is too early?

 

[tvu]

Sorry, i have a blue tang not powder blue.... i dont think i'd attempt powder blue

 

[djreef]

To be honest, I'd give it a couple of more months. Buying large, or potentially large, nervous animals isn't something that should be rushed. I'd want to make sure that everything is 'nailed down' before proceeding. I think money spent now on more pumps for circulation would be a better investment - it really is that important. If you don't have a skimmer already, then that'd be where I'd start, even if it's just a HOB type. Patience and preparation is the greatest preventative. I wouldn't worry about the bubbles; the animals are fully equipped to deal with them.

DJ
= 8-->{I>

 

[incysor]

What kind of return pump do you have? Most of the submersible ones have a sponge/filter that you can put over the intake and that will act as a bubble trap. If it's inline you can put a block of sponge in the sump in front of the bulkead leading to the pump. 100 micron bags over the return lines may help as well.

Personally I don't think that bubbes are really that big a deal, and actually look more natural than having nothing in the water. If you go diving there is TONS of bubbles and bits and pieces of stuff floating in the water column on a reef.

Brian

 

[Guest]

Thanks for your comments DJ. I think I'm fine on circulation, although I am contemplating adding a spray bar to the left side. Skimmer is to be purchased in the next month. In the meantime I do have a "filter sock" that catches a good amount of deitrius, I wash it weekly.

I agree and won't be adding this fish for at least 4 to 6 weeks. I am trying to decide if I should put him in before or after the school of anthias. I also have lots of hiding spaces...my rockwork is loose.

Here's a pic of the tank. Not a lot to look at, but as they say.....go slow! It's been really stable, I've added a one hardy coral (or 2 if you count ric polyps and zoas) every 2 weeks.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-10/856661/Full_shot_101404_small.jpg


Brian....my return is a Velocity T3. I'd rather not put a sponge between the baffles so my pods can enter the main tank. Not worried about how it'll affect the livestock, they just keep the water from being ultra clear. They're not too bad...I guess I'll live with it for now.

Thanks!

 

[djreef]

Spray bars can be messy. Loads of salt creep everywhere. I'd stick with just putting a big powerhead in one of the corners with a basket strainer over the intake to keep critters out.

Also, be very careful about the species of Anthias you go with. Most of the fish in the genus Anthias and Pseudanthias are asses, on the same order as damsels. They will beat on each other until you end up with only one dominant male left (just like damsels). Stay within the genus Mirolabrichthys (fairy anthias) and you should be safe. Now keep in mind that many of the Mirolabrichthys have now been changed over to Pseudanthias (much to my chagrine), so you may need an older resource to get a more complete idea of what I'm referring to. Some of the species names would be ignitus, carberryi, evansi, bartlettorum, dispar, thompsoni, yadda yadda. Basically all of the, what I would refer to, as the 'hook nosed lyretails' - because they have a pointed extrusion on their upper lip. Stay away from the 'fatheads', unless you just want to keep a few of those exclusively.
And lastly, keep a female to male ratio of about 3:1, if you can, just like you would Malawi African Cichlids. These guys are harem brooders, so they are more comfortable with this type of setup. Actually, the more females the better. The males will be less inclined to beat on one individual female, and each other, if there's plenty to go around.

Ok, now the downside. Fairy anthias are expensive. You can find them online at various times for between $15-$25, but you don't know what you're going to end up with, qualitatively. I would only go this route if you have a quarantine setup available to clean them up if they come in infested with something - which is pretty common for these guys. I think you're best bet is to buy them locally if you can (maybe) have a real nice shop owner order some for you. Someone you trust. That way you can pick the ones you want. The downside, once again, is going to be price - if you buy them locally be expecting to pay $35 a piece for nice ones. A nice chunk of change if you're looking to put together a nice swarm.

Hope this helps?

DJ
= 8-->{I>

 

[Guest]

Hope this helps?

DJ
= 8-->{I>

Yes it helps....to compound my headache !

I was and am a little concerned about the anthias (I've read the same thing..but it's nice to have a nice list that you provided in one place), but they're so beautiful. I'm pretty much preparing myself to lay out the $$$$ for the Fairy Anthias...I'm hoping an LFS would give me a deal if I were to purchase 4 of them. I'm by no means rich, but after all the $$$ spent on the entire setup I don't want to skimp on the livestock.

Thanks for the spraybar tip.....the spot is fairly small (my overflow is about 1 ft. from the left corner) I have a RIO there right now and keep my lower current loving corals there. I'm still juggling the idea of spraybar vs. ph. I do need to be careful of salt creep and splashing onto the VHO endcaps.