Back to my 30" x 30" Build...Looking for Input (1 Viewer)

[Niko5]

Im laying out equipment on my new 30"30" cube tank and wanted to get some input on my layout design to make sure im not missing anything major or doing something I may regret...

Im looking at using a 20 Gallon sump 24" x 12" x 17" the far left side has a baffle 6" away from the left side to act as the refuge area the far right side will have a bubble trap and room to put in a poly sock. The return from the tank will be split off feeding both the refuge side and bubble trap side.

I have a Redline 150 Skimmer from Precision Marine that will go inside the sump area. The waterline in the sump is the black line on it in the picture (7" from bottom) a 2 part dosing pump, solenoid for fresh water topoff a custom 2.2 gallon tank that will hang from the bottom of the stand to supply fresh topoff water and feed my kalk reactor.

Just looking for some input so feel free to ask questions or point out something I missed.

 

[bdblkta1]

I would try to avoid putting all of the electrical under your tank if you can, hopefully it doesnt happen to you but we had a tank bottom fail and lost quite a few electrical items. What we did on our new build was to wall of one are of our stand completely seperate from the sump area. we have a few pics of what im talking about on the second page of our build

http://www.marshreef.com/modules.ph...pic&t=38019&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

its the second and third pic from the top. you can see how the left side of the stand was closed off then just drill a few holes lagre enough for the cables to fit through and worry less about water spillage. this will only work with a door on the side or a removable skin.

 

[Niko5]

I was worried about the electrical stuff so waht iv done which isnt shown on that drawing is add a 1" x 1" board all around the sump layer and completely seal off the sump area from the lower section even if the sump breaks and overflows the 1" retaner wall it will flow over the outside of the stand and onto the floor (woohoo...) there would also be a board under the tank itself so if it were to fail it would again flow over the outside of the stand and to the floor.

 

[bdblkta1]

good deal. just throwing it out there. looks like a good start

 

[chriskb3]

I like your idea of the electronics partition. One thing I have experienced though, is that you can never have enough room under the tank for equipment. Especially height. Make sure you have enough vertical space to remove the skimmer body from the sump.

I like external pumps, but you might be better served using a submersable. An Eheim with the same output gph will likely use less energy, run quieter, and will not add any more heat to your water than an external (I've had many external pumps add much more heat to the water, via hot air inside the stand, than a good comparable submersable one). Simplicity is another thing. The more things that you have that *can* leak, the more likely something *will* leak. With a submerible pump, you can eliminate the hole and bulkhead, and have a larger sump to boot.

Good luck with the build, I think it's the funnest part of having a tank!

 

[Niko5]

Thanks for the input Chriskb3 I really thought about an internal pump but in past experience with them has been bad it makes it hard to service the pump and it also adds another power cord into the tank and thats something im trying to avoid.

I also like the idea of having solid plumbing like I can with the external and I already have the external pump that helps some too

I updated my sketchup to show my plumbing and a few other items so that I can do as you said and make sure I have room to get the skimmer cup in / out as well as clean out the sump if needed.

I added 2 valves to the side of the tank for water changes. Dont pay attention to the one pipe fitting at a 45 with an opening in the pipe.. i couldnt find a 45 deg fitting haha

 

[mario8402]

the design looks great, the sketchup you made is awesome, but something just makes me uneasy about everything electrical on the very bottom....

 

[Niko5]

I know when you first look at it the first though it WOAH what r u doing!!!

But what about having a stand with all the electrical on the same level as the sump then you have splashing that can get to it as well as saltcreap.

this way the electrical is on bottom in a sealed compartment away from any splashing.

 

[mario8402]

i just keep envisioning something overflowing or maybe if you are doing a water change and the hose falls out of the sump (I have never done it ) and shoots water everywehre.. its going to want to go down. I think the idea is great and you seem to have a good plan so go for it. I wish it could go above everything, but I know that would be hard with the drain pipes coming from the bottom of the tank etc.. either way, its gonna look good!

 

[Niko5]

The 2 valves on the side in picture 2 are for water changes I will have hoses hooked up to it one to pump water in and one to drain water out. I have had hoses fall out the sumps SOO many times its not even funny any more

the bottom will also have doors on it and should be closed as long as im not working in the electrical area so even if water went spraying it should just run down the outside of the stand.

Im trying to think of ever possible scenario so that I can put protection in to stop it or minimize its damage... but i know the problem I have will the the one I don't think of now.. so if you have any other ideas post them

 

[jamesw]

Hi,

I used to have a 30" cube. I can give you some rec's:

1) get your electrical stuff out of under any and all water - that is just bad practice. It should be mounted above the sump level at a minimum to avoid leaks or better yet, totally out of the stand.

2) Your water change setup is a good idea but as it stands, you'll only be able to drain the water in the sump.

I too prefer external pumps. I had 2 plumbed into my sump - one for the return (iwaki 20) and one for the Bullet2 skimmer (iwaki 40).

Here's a pic: http://www.reefpix.org/v/aquarium/album106/plumbing3.jpg.html

I would look at ways to do tank top-off, and calcium replenishment too. I used a small reservoir in teh stand for kalkwasser. This was fed by an RODI unit outside w/ a line in through the window and controlled by a float valve. Kalk was pumped from the small reservoir as needed by a small pump controlled by a float switch.

Cheers
James

 

[Niko5]

1.) The only way for water to get into the bottom of the stand is if the whole tank busted even then it may not get into the bottom either way if the electrical was above the sump it would be the first to be hit with water.

2.) I tend to do weekly water changes so What I was thinking was shutting down the pump so that the sump is at its fullest then draining that amount of water out for the water change should be 15 or so gallons.

For topoff I have a small 2.5 gallon tank that will be mounted above the sump that will gravity feed the tank via float switch and solenoid you can see it in the top of some of the pictures. I also have a Kalk reactor that it will feed and I have a dosing pump to does a 2 part cal/alk solution. Ill have to refill the 2.5 gallon tank offen but once I figure out where im locating the tank I will probly run an RO/DI line directly to it.

 

[D2daJAZ]

Maybe you could partition a small compartment within the cabinet to seal off the electrical on the same level but vertical on the side instead of under?

HTH

 

[Hurdicuss]

Sorry Nick, I have to agree with not having the electrical compartment on the bottom. It would make ME too uncomfortable, regardless of being water-proof. If you want to stick with making an electrical compartment, then I would vote to put it as the first "level" directly under the display tank within the stand. Good luck.

 

[decimal]

just switch it... put the electrical tray on the top with a small cut out in the back part of the tray with some kind of splash guard so that it wraps around the plumbing. this way you can still have the sliding drawer(which i think is a great thing) maintain access from all sides, and keep your electrical components safer.