• Welcome back Guest!

    MARSH is a private reefing group. Comments and suggestions are encouraged, but please keep them positive and constructive. Negative threads, posts, or attacks will be removed from view and reviewed by the staff. Continually disruptive, argumentative, or flagrant rule breakers may be suspended or banned.

Difficult and special care inverts list. (1 Viewer)

Users who are viewing this thread

flexrac

Guest
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
5,222
Reaction score
14
Location
Remington Ranch
Inverts and Corals Best Avoided Or Left To Experts:


Cephalopods, Octopi, Cuttlefish, Squid (Class Cephalopoda): These must have species tanks and require a lot of research before attempting them

Non-photosynyhetic Corals and Gorgonids (Sun polyps, Carnation, Devils Hand, Chili Coral, etc.): If it's a soft coral and not green or brown in part and is very vividly colored odds are it's non-photosynthetic and requires more small particles of food than most aquarists are willing or able to provide.

Christmas Tree Worms (Spirobranchus spp.): Filters feeders that rarely live long in home aquaria

Coco Worms (Protula bispiralis): See above

Flowerpot Coral (Goniopora spp.): Some progress has been made, but still miserably low survival rates and mopst are still doomed, stokesi is the most common and seems to be among the most difficult in the genus

Feather Starfish (Himerometra sp.): Require huge amounts of flow and large amounts of tiny planktonic organisms

Basket Starfish (Astrophyton muricatum): Similar to feather stars above, but even less suitable for typical aquarium life

Crown of Thorns Starfish (Acanthaster planci): Just seeing if you're still paying attention...

Linckia Starfish (Linckia spp.): Disease issues and shipping stress kill a large percentage, the ones that remain often slowly starve to death

Wild Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.): Wild colonies can be particularly adapted to flow and light from their natural environment and often do poorly once in aquaria, seek out hardier aquacultured specimens

Sea Apples (Pseudocolochirus spp.): Often slowly waste away if not offered large amounts of food appropriate for filter feeders, also a chance for toxins to be released and possibly kill other organisms

Margarita Snails (Margarites pupillus): From temperate waters and don't seem to adapt to warmer waters as well as some other clean up crew members from similar waters

Green Brittle Starfish (Ophioarachna incrassata): Can get large and boisterous, some reports of them actually ambushing unsuspecting or sleeping fish

Sea Pens (Order Pennatulacea): Terrible additions to home aquaria and are very short-lived

Sea Slugs and Nudibranchs (Subclass Opisthobranchia): Very specialized feeders, a couple can be useful to elimate pests but it is very difficult to sustain a food source for even those, they're also very prone to damage by overflows and pumps

Flame Scallop (Lima scabra): Filter feeders that usually waste away in home aquaria, the same goes for other scallops which are less frequently encountered in the trade

Anemones (various genera): Most anemones should be placed in specialty tanks and also have very poor survival rates, beginners should not attempt Anemones without extensive research
Bright Yellow Anemones (dyed; and done most commonly with Sebae, but also seen on occasion with long tentacle and carpet anemones

Harlequin/Clown Shrimp (Hymenocera picta): Must have live starfish to feed on to survive

Camel/Mechanical Shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis): Not reef safe but often sold as as such

Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei): Recent poor survival possibly due to a disease, other factors might relate to them coming from higher nutrient environments

Pipe Organ Coral (Tubipora Musica): Often hacked off from a larger colony, recent survival seems better than in the past

"Decorative" Sponges (Porifera) Often hacked off from large colonies, also exposed to air for too long which often leads to their demise, bright orange and yellow colors are common

Horseshoe Crab (various genera Limulus polyphemus most common) Grow too large for home aquaria but will die of starvation long before they have the chance





Venomous and/or Toxic Species:


Blue Ring Octopus (Hapalochlaena spp.)

Flower Urchins (Toxopneustes pileolus): Rare in the trade, but outside the trade there are reported deaths from this species

Black Longspined Sea Urchins (Diadema spp.): Can inflict painful wounds, some debate exists whether or not they are really venomous, but it's wise to handle all urchins with care

Cone Shells (Conus spp.): Rarely encountered in the aquarium trade, can be deadly

Box Jellyfish (Chironex fleckeri): Quite deadly but of no concern to aquarists

Hell's Fire Anemone (family Actinodendronidae): While all anemones are capable of stinging, this is the one of the few to be concerned about, very painful stings

Hydroids: Usually just cause skin irritation if anything

Fire Coral (Millepora spp.): See hydroids

Sea Mat, Button Polyps, Zoanthids (family Zoanthidae): Some of these can contain Palytoxin which can be quite dangerous, they're quite frequently harmless but if you want to err on the side of caution rubber gloves are a good idea when handling them, as are goggles when fragging them.
 

bevoboy

Guest
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Messages
204
Reaction score
0
Location
Katy
This is an excellent compilation and should be quite useful to us noobs.

I've read multiple times on different sites that Gonio fares poorly in home aquaria. I have two different pieces, one metallic green and one dwarf red, that have done very well in my tank (knock wood) going on 5 months. They seem to be thriving. I've discovered that they do best with lower light levels and have them placed them in shaded areas of the tank. And they don't like bristle worms on/under them. Every time I notice polyps retracted I check for bristle worms and, sure enough, find a little commune of them. My .02.
 

reefdog

Guest
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
FLEXRAC

Way to go, very well done. Hey I have several colonies of sun polyp's (Tubastrea) the mother colony I have had for than 7 years. I have never fraged the mother colony. The smaller colony just seam to pop up eveywere. Since I believe that you like LPS type coral and do not have one, and if you would like a colony say one with 3-5 heads I could leave it with Q at T&T if you every go by there. I trade or sell a few frags to him from time to time.
 

Ophiura

Guest
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
375
Reaction score
0
Location
Cypress (Ravensway)
This is an excellent list!

I want to clarify a bit on basket versus feather stars.

The primary issue with basket stars is that they are nocturnal, need direct spot feeding, and grow HUGE. But they can be kept in species tanks by those willing to try (it grows real old real fast). Nonetheless, success is possible and we know what is required to do it.

However, feather stars have a species specific diet, are very hard to feed, and will starve in nearly any system. They seem to require particular size diatoms depending on species. Those that have kept them have huge tanks with large refugia. It is very very rare, IME, to have them survive long term.

So in general feather stars are worse candidates to keep rather than basketstars.

I would also add Fromia sp seastars to your list right next to Linckia. Same problems.
 

goby1kanobi

Guest
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
954
Reaction score
0
Location
South Montgomery County
flexrac-thank you for taking an experience and forming it into something we can all use.
It has been moved to the "Invertebrate Reference" forum I think a copy should also be in the "New to the Hobby" and Member articles on the home page....
My 0.02
 
OP
OP
flexrac

flexrac

Guest
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
5,222
Reaction score
14
Location
Remington Ranch
+1, as far as giving me all the credit, this was a list comprised by a few others. a little google search helped. i'm just glad everyone appreciates it.
 
Top