Fish outta water.. (1 Viewer)

[below radar]

Yes, that will prove to be invaluable when you need to do maintenance on your pump.

 

[mbh427]

BSP adapter ordered. Should be here hopefully by Friday. Hopefully by then I'll finally have this damn plumbing thing complete.

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[below radar]

I hate waiting for small things that hold up an entire project!

 

[mbh427]

Beyond pissed! Expedited this damn part and turns out it's too small! FML!

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[below radar]

Is it not 1.25"?

 

[mbh427]

It is. It's exactly this item

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[below radar]

So you need a 1.5"?

 

[mbh427]

I'm just gonna cut the 3/4 end off the adapter that came with the pump and just use a hose... I should have my rock in today and I'm ready to get this thing started hah..

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[below radar]

You can do that but I would order the right part in the meantime.

 

[mbh427]

So you need a 1.5"?

Seems like it but I'm not sure and I just don't wanna mess with it anymore. If I take the check valve off, I should be able to make it fit without any kinks in the line.

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[below radar]

Believe me, this whole saltwater hobby is a waiting game. I learned the hard way by rushing my way through the first go-round.

 

[OceansX]

FYI internet rumor says: some years ago Jeabo changed those pump fittings to NPT. You may want to just head to a local hardware store and see if the NPT fittings are correct? The 12000 I have from last year, it appears is NPT, a standard american thread instead of a foreign thread standard e.g. BSP.


Also, +1 regarding the check valves as Below Radar stated. Depending on those check valves is a disaster in the making. Instead, please make sure your plumbing has a siphon break hole. It's a small hole at or above the return lines return, so that when power stops, too much water doesn't back-siphon from the return back into the sump, causing a flood. You can test this by turning off the flow and watching where the level stops in your sump. If your returns are at the surface a siphon break will probably not be needed. I didn't look at your photos that carefully, so apologies if you already did this or aware of it.


Finally, one of Reef Currents' guest speakers Marc Levenson has an interesting graphic that may help: What is a sump? | Melev's Reef, Inc
Those pages have a lot of helpful articles, hopefully not too many out of date

 

[mbh427]

Hi oceansx, do you mean this?

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[OceansX]

Something like that, but on the returns. Even if the skimmer box/overflow stops draining your returns will continue to drain. Water naturally siphoning from the high point to the low point i.e. sump.

Once water is in the system, you'll see that when you cut the power, water will drain from the return lines into the sump until the returns are out, above the water line. Right now, your returns may be high enough or your sump large enough to hold the back-siphon volume. It's something you need to be aware of and test once the plumbing is running.

I'd suggest keeping the returns high when you are testing if you aren't clear as to what I'm writing. It'll all make sense once water is in the system, but it's nicer to learn without flooding your home

 

[nvy]

Looks like your returns are above your water line. You should be good. The hole is the drain line is the siphon break for your overflow. Your water will only drain as low as the teeth in the overflow so your should be ok.


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[nvy]

I have a dcs6000 pump and it's bsp 1.25". I used a 1.25 fpt Union and cranked it until it wouldn't turn anymore. So far so good. It's been running for about 8 months now.


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[mbh427]

Well I got a 1.5" female adapter and it screws in but not all the way because it's not BSP. I think if I really force it, it might go, but looking at the space and angle of how I have the sump plumbed, I'm gonna have to make some turns to hard plumb the pump. I'm really just leaning towards running the thicker hose at this point.. I'll see..

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[nvy]

Npt is tapered. Bsp doesn't need that much force to crank down. Put some thread pipe tape and crack it but careful not to crack it.


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