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LED layout opinions (1 Viewer)

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kgk

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I have messed with this for a bit, and figured I'd just stop & get some opinions.

I am building a DIY LED fixture for my 120 gallon project. If you want more details, feel free to ask, but at a high level I'm using 2x 143V @ 700mA (max) drivers (one for blues, one for whites), one small driver for Violets, and heatsinks/shields from ReefLEDLights. Dimming will be done by an Apex. The LEDs are Lux LEDs from StevesLEDs. Each heatsink will have 50 LEDs. I know this is overkill for a 120g, but I can dim them, remember? :)
Anyway, what I could use help with is finding the "most even" LED layout, in 6 rows (that's how many rows of holes I have in the heatsinks). I will have extra LEDs so I can massage the numbers if it makes sense. Here is my first pass:

LEDs_v1.jpg


Opinions greatly appreciated. I can upload the spreadsheet I'm using if it helps, but it's in LibreOffice format (*.ods).
 

flexrac

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i prefer to go b w b w per row

so for you it would be like ww rb w b nw rb etc
next row b nw rb ww b cw etc
keep in mind you can place the violets in between them wherever you want.

you wil need to get bins and label them for each led and also label the heat sinks so you know what goes where, only way to not put the wrong led in the wrong place.
i have done it.

i welcome anyone to come by and look at my layout and setup.
 

BlackSS

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I just did a similar build, same heat sinks, but Cree led's. I have 102 3W on my 120 split between 2 18" heat sinks.
Overkill is somewhat of an understatement. I have taken 3 weeks to get them up to 50% for 5 hours and am not too sure if I will take them any higher. I have clams on the bottom of the tank that at e happy, and am having to move other things down...

reefledlights has a suggested layout on their page, that is what I used and am happy with it.
 

BlackSS

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No, but i will try to remember to snap a,couple of the finished product this evening
 

BlackSS

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Here is the layout.
I have 2 different blues (but they look the same to me) ~8000k cool whites and some ~5000k whites. You can see the violets with no lenses.
Like I said, I used the layout suggested on reefledlights and added in the violets where ever I felt like they fit and spread out the different whites as best I could.

I realize this is an awful picture, but it's the best I could do with the phone.

image_zpsc4f6ede2.jpg
 
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kgk

kgk

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I don't know if this is any better or not, but I tried my best to do the "alternating" thing that flexrac recommended. I did the same thing on the previous one too tho ... not easy when you have 50 LEDs on 6 rows with 6 different colors.

LEDs_v2.jpg
 

gabe_j

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dude you should be able to do it with less than 50 leds for the whole tank. i just delivered a 42 bulb unit to go over a 160 gallon tank.
 
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kgk

kgk

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I am bumping this thread so I can find it again.
It's been a while since I have thought about this.
 

Jeremyee

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Make sure you are using lenses on the leds to spread the light. A little overkill on the amount of leds but I have never used that brand so I might be wrong. Either way the dimable function will fix that. I have 36 on a 90 gallon tank 12 inches off the water and run them at 50% MAX using cree leds. I run 3 strips of 12 using white, blue and royal blue.
 
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kgk

kgk

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Make sure you are using lenses on the leds to spread the light. A little overkill on the amount of leds but I have never used that brand so I might be wrong. Either way the dimable function will fix that. I have 36 on a 90 gallon tank 12 inches off the water and run them at 50% MAX using cree leds. I run 3 strips of 12 using white, blue and royal blue.

I'm not going to bother with lenses. That's part of the reason I went overboard with the number of LEDs. I want maximum color mixing with the LEDs - lenses would only hurt that goal. I really don't enjoy the disco-ball effect.

Lenses ARE awesome for being able to hang the lights high & keep most of the light in the tank. I'll have a canopy on this build though, so I'm not terribly worried about that.
 

Jeremyee

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If you are calling the flickering / shimmer effect a disco-ball effect that is not caused by the lenses. The lenses focus the light in your tank and minimize the spread of light that will escape your tank. The lenses also ensure that the color spectrum is evenly distributed from all you color choices. I have built 3 led fixtures now and I have found that some things are a must do like, a driver that will dim, lenses, Blue, Royal Blue, Cool White, Red and Green LED's.

I am not saying your idea won't work but you can get more performance with lenses. Also keep in mind you can't dim past 10% or 1 volt using the driver that works with the apex.

Below is an example of a 90 gallon with 12 Blue, 12 Royal Blue, 12 Cool White and 3 UV running @ 40%. I am adding the Red and |Green LED's next week.
IMG_5172.jpg


My first LED Build with no lenses which acted like a nightlight.
IMG_5165.jpg IMG_5166.jpg
 

flexrac

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kgk

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I am not using Mean well drivers. I am using Thomas Research drivers.
I have done a couple build as well but none of this size.
I understand your position on optics but honestly they would be overkill here. I will have 100 3w LEDs over a 4' long, 24" deep tank. The fixtures will be mounted in a canopy, not that far off the water. A 120* light spread per led will help the light blend better than tightening the spread down to 80* or less. I also have 4 different color LEDs on each fixture.
 
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Jeremyee

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How do the Thompson Research drivers react to voltage like .5 or 1.5? I was doing some research and was thinking of going PWM instead of analog 1-10 due to the poor dimming function. I am looking for a smooth increase in light unlike the mean well driver a 1-10.

Looking forward to the outcome of your project.
 
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kgk

kgk

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Disco ball effect: where the colors are not blended well, and the tank rocks or floor appear as if a disco ball is spinning above the tank, being kit by multiple colors of light.

My last LED fixture with optics had a terrible disco ball until I raised it.

Ever notice how radions have the LEDs grouped closely together on stars? This is to counter that effect.
 
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kgk

kgk

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How do the Thompson Research drivers react to voltage like .5 or 1.5? I was doing some research and was thinking of going PWM instead of analog 1-10 due to the poor dimming function. I am looking for a smooth increase in light unlike the mean well driver a 1-10.

Looking forward to the outcome of your project.

I need to go look at the data sheet again. It's been 6 months since I bought the things from digikey.
 

Jeremyee

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Jeremyee, you can dim LEDs to 0 on an apex using the latest meanwell drivers, ldd's.
you just need a converter for the signal. 10v to 5v.
read all about it here:
Converting the 0-10v signal from an APEX to a PWM signal - Reef Central Online Community

and ldd drivers here:
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino - Reef Central Online Community

i have a simple setup if anyone wants to see how the drivers work.


How is the sensitivity for dimming on the P model (PWM) Meanwell driver? I am running the D model of meanwell drivers (Analog 0-10) so it wouldn't work unless I swapped out all the drivers to PWM which I am willing to do if I gain some performance. I like the specs on the LLD model drivers.
 
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