Live rock (1 Viewer)

[Wingnut]

Hey Guys , I have about 150 lbs. dead LR that purchased with a bunch of equipment that I bought was wondering what I can do , are can I rejuvenate the rock.

 

[rparker2112]

Id cook the rock for about 4-5 weeks

But how long as it been out of the water?

 

[Wingnut]

I am not sure , I bought a 90 gallon tank and a bunch of equipment and the rock was in the tank he just drained the tank and let it set there, I am not sure what are how to cook the rock.

 

[rparker2112]

Google "Live rock cooking" but if it involves the stove stay away

 

[Wingnut]

Got it , thanks no stove

 

[FarmerTy]

If it were me, I'd hit it with some muriatic acid to dissolve away the outer layer of rock and then start to cycle it in a trash can or tub. I usually add some bacteria in a bottle for a quick cycle. I'd then drip some Lanthanum chloride in a 10 micron sock to remove phosphates from the rock until I start getting a reading of <0.03 ppm phosphates.

The acid will remove anything on the surface and start you over with clean, white rock. As it removes the surface and initial outer layers of the rock, it'll also free any phosphates that have bound to the surface of the rock as well. Following up with the Lanthanum chloride helps remove any residual bound phosphate in the rock so that you don't set up a tank with a phosphate issue straight from the beginning.

 

[Wingnut]

Thanks , I am not planning on setting up my other tank for a couple of more months , should I wait until a little closer to that time are would it be ok in a tub with power head and bubbler for a couple of months.

 

[FarmerTy]

It'll be fine in the tub. I'd throw some food in there on occasion to let it break down and feed the bacteria. Ghost feed.

 

[rparker2112]

I have live rock in a tub thats been going for almost a year now. I ghost feed it some flakes every Monday. I dont keep a light on mine either.

 

[Wingnut]

Thanks Guys

 

[Wingnut]

On the Muratic acid how much and how long do you soak with acid and how do you dispose of the acid afterwards.

 

[rparker2112]

Muriatic Acid Bath - Live Rock "Rebirth" | Reef Sanctuary

This is the way I always recommend, but only to DEAD live rock. No use to do it on dry rock. Also rinse very good, cure the rock and watch the phosphates.

 

[FarmerTy]

On the Muratic acid how much and how long do you soak with acid and how do you dispose of the acid afterwards.

Muriatic acid use in detail:
LIVE ROCK ACID BATH - REEFEDITION

You can neutralize it with baking soda or lime (cheaper) and pour it down the sink or in a non-vegetated area of the lawn.

 

[rparker2112]

I DONT recommend Muratic Acid. Very very nasty stuff. I just power wash, bleach, then rinse, and cure.

 

[Cody]

I DONT recommend Muratic Acid. Very very nasty stuff. I just power wash, bleach, then rinse, and cure.

That won't handle any phosphates that have attached to the rock. That's why you need to use lanthanum chloride, some muriatic acid, or both.

 

[Cody]

Muriatic acid use in detail:
LIVE ROCK ACID BATH - REEFEDITION

You can neutralize it with baking soda or lime (cheaper) and pour it down the sink or in a non-vegetated area of the lawn.

Or get that nice blonde hair that you've been looking for. Or maybe no hair. Not sure if you're looking for that.

 

[rparker2112]

Thats why when I cure I use the Lanthanum Choride from the pool section.

Also I do water changes often while curing.

 

[Cody]

Thats why when I cure I use the Lanthanum Choride from the pool section.

Also I do water changes often while curing.

Ah gotcha. I prefer just using LaCl as well, however, you should not do a water change while leaching them out. The rock will try to reach equilibrium with the water, so when you're changing water, you're substituting just simply dropping the LaCl in the water for doing a full blown water change. One is more cost effective/efficient than the other.

 

[rparker2112]

Ah gotcha. I prefer just using LaCl as well, however, you should not do a water change while leaching them out. The rock will try to reach equilibrium with the water, so when you're changing water, your reducing the phosphate leaching and substituting just simply dropping the LaCl in the water for doing a full blown water change. One is more cost effective/efficient than the other.

The water changes consists of a few dunks in new SW, and then a 100% water change. So the LaCL goes down to 99% less.
Once the phosphates are Zero and holding steady for a week or so. Then I do another water change and complete the curing process and test to make sure everything is where I want it.
And usally it sits in a bucket once its done and I have to ghost feed. Sometimes I get lucky after LaCl its pretty much cured and sometimes like this last batch I did, it took a few more weeks to reach 0,0,1+.

 

[Cody]

The point is not to reduce the LaCl. It binds to PO4 and precipitates out, hence why you get all of the gunk on the sides. As phosphates leach out, they bind to the LaCl and form a solid, which can be brushed off. By changing the water, you are reducing PO4, which will cause more PO4 to leach out, but you'really also reducing the ability of the LaCl to reduce PO4, because you're removing the LaCl with the water change. If all of the LaCl has precipitated out of the water, then you're just reducing PO4 by doing a water change. The goal is to have the LaCl do the work instead of a water change though.