Plumbing questions (1 Viewer)

[Copingsaw]

Okay, This may be real basic stuff but this is the first time I have plumbed a sump on a tank. Any advice would be appreciated.

Problem 1: My pvc slip connections all work great. I'm a proud first time plumber. However, I have two pvc threaded connections where the plumbing connects to the bulkheads for both the drain and return. I used teflon tape on both and hand tightened as much as possible. I think they are both very tight; however, both connections slowly drip. How can I resolve this?

Problem 2: The drain line terminates about five inches above the water line in the sump. The water draining out obviously cascades down into the sump and makes a lot of noise. I don't think I want the drain to be under the surface of the water do I? How can I silence the drain into the sump?

 

[alexrex20]

You can tighten the heck out of those threaded barb adapters that screw into the bulkhead. You never want to overtighten the bulkhead though. Put a wrench on those leaky fittings and the leak will go away.

There's nothing wrong with letting the drain empty underwater. You don't have to worry about the tank siphoning out because you have an overflow box. Make sure you drill a small hole in your return nozzle, right at the waterline. This is to break the siphon in the return line, if/when the return pump turns off or fails or whatever. If the siphon is maintained, the display tank will continue to drain until the water level drops all the way to the nozzle, it wherever it first starts sucking in air. Without the siphon-break hole, the drain back could and probably will overflow your sump.

 

[twitchy4821]

I'm not sure how to fix problem one, but it is perfectly fine to have a drain line terminate under the sump water level.

 

[trb]

People have used Teflon paste on the threaded connections when they have persistent leaks. It seals the joints better than the tape.

 

[alexrex20]

The problem is they're only hand tight. They're a pipe fitting. They NEED to be tightened with a wrench.

 

[Copingsaw]

Okay, thanks for all the advice. May be next weekend before I have time to try to resolve these issues but I now have solutions that hopefully will work. I'll update after I try them out.

 

[KyleH]

I would also consider using more tape. I generally wrap the thing 3-5 times at a minimum. If there is metal threading (like a shower head), I would use a little more. If you ever unscrew, remove whatever is there as much as you can and reapply 3-5 wraps.

I have had success when using hand tightening with more teflon tape. It is good advice to use a wrench, but if there is a reason you got threaded pvc, you may be thinking about unscrewing them. For whateve reason, if you use a wrench, it may be there forever after years of use.

-KyleH

Problem 1: My pvc slip connections all work great. I'm a proud first time plumber. However, I have two pvc threaded connections where the plumbing connects to the bulkheads for both the drain and return. I used teflon tape on both and hand tightened as much as possible. I think they are both very tight; however, both connections slowly drip. How can I resolve this?

 

[DustinB]

Go to home depot and get some rectorseal t plus 2. Its a teflon putty. Works great.

As for the drain. Look up the herbie overflow method. That's what I use and it is absolutely silent.

 

[Copingsaw]

Update: Used rectoseal t plus 2 and extended the drain pipe down under the water level and this appears to have solved both my problems. Thanks for the advice!

 

[tedu]

Also just to add to the knowledge base here, Lowes sells a pink teflon tape (for water) that is thicker than the standard white tape. It's the only tape I'll use anymore.

 

[cliner]

So that's what all the pink tape is on the plumbing I got from you, Good to know.