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Potassium, Iodine, and Iron (1 Viewer)

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Cody

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What references do yall have on each and their roll with sps? I understand them to all be contributing factors in coloration and growth, and have read a little on them, but am curious to learn more.

Also, since it seems to be more of a topic these days, what about nitrate? More specifically, keeping nitrates in the tank, as oppossed to keeping them as low as possible. That was what I had always read, but now I'm hearing that they shouldn't be so low.

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Diesel

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Correct on the No3.
What have you been reading so far about K, Iron and Iodine?
 
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Cody

Cody

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More or less, potassium helps blues/purples color up, iodine helps reds color up, and iron helps greens color up/algae grow.

What are the effects of maintaining certain levels of nitrates? Color? Growth?
 

Diesel

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Well there's a little more to it than just the colors.
No3 promotes zooxanthellae on corals which gives you in return the colors, in a low nutrient system ppl will see pale colors if proper dossed with for example the KZ products zeo you will see the famous pastel colors.
Hobbyist have to be careful with dosing No3 as you can dose to much in short time a trigger a algae war.
Some algae is good in the reef tank as no algae is never a reeftank, with no algae your Po4 will go like a JoJo.
Now algae can mean a lot, if you can't spot algae on your rock than IMO you are of balance.
Hobbyist brag a lot like I clean my glass only once a week, what does that tell you?
That's why it's important now days to test for No3 everyday as it is one of the important nutrients in your water.
Potassium, yes promotes the blue/purple colors but also growth, K needs to be around 390 give and take.
With a ULNS you deplete K super fast as it can drop to a low in week time from 390 to below 300.
For that is No3 important to keep that ad balance.
Iron is something else ppl think you should dose it but our salt mixes have a high level of salt already, NSW level is at 0.0034.
Some ppl will maintain it at 0.15 but my question is how could they test for that?
0.15 ppm is so ridiculously incorrect it's not even funny.
Iron is measured in the parts per trillion range in surface seawater.
There is really no point in trying to test it with hobby test kits.
It is far too low in concentration to be detected without super fancy tools.
Triton test will come good but often gives a false reading and that all depends on having macro's or not.
With regular WC you will balance out the iron but also the Iodine.
If you go the route as many other all ready have done, you be forced to do a monthly Triton test as it will tell you the elements that we by our self can't test for.
That's a other conclusion but not relevant to this topic.
 
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Cody

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Yeah I realized my tank is just too damn clean. A fellow reefer asked me how often i clean my glass. I told him once every week or two and he was a bit shocked. With only two fish in a 40 breeder, i dont know if i can feed enough to keep it up. Hell, my rolling ball of chaeto is even starving itself out now. Either way, ill work towards getting nitrates up. What range am I shooting for? Also, what are you using to test K? There are a couple of test kits out there but the reviews on a lot of them say the titration is hard to read. What are you dosing to get them up? Avocados? Fun fact, avocados have the highest concentration of K of any of the fruits. Bananas, youre out!
 
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And with iron dosing, I got turned on to it while running algae turf scrubbers. Folks reported good results with dosing iron to keep the screens nice and lush so I throw in some when my chaeto isn't looking so hot. It always helped with the scrubbers that I ran.
 

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Yeah I realized my tank is just too damn clean. A fellow reefer asked me how often i clean my glass. I told him once every week or two and he was a bit shocked. With only two fish in a 40 breeder, i dont know if i can feed enough to keep it up. Hell, my rolling ball of chaeto is even starving itself out now. Either way, ill work towards getting nitrates up. What range am I shooting for? Also, what are you using to test K? There are a couple of test kits out there but the reviews on a lot of them say the titration is hard to read. What are you dosing to get them up? Avocados? Fun fact, avocados have the highest concentration of K of any of the fruits. Bananas, youre out!

LOL!
Forget about the advocados, you can use that as a healthy snack.
I use the potassium from Redsea but any potassium source is good.
I used to dose the K Balance from KZ as it is more concentrated.
As test kit I use and recommend the Redsea Pro, I have been using most potassium test kits but the Redsea Pro is one of the easiest and more accurate than the others.
With only two fish you should only run your ball of chaeto and turn all other nutrient reducers off, include your skimmer.
The level that you would like to maintain is all depending on how your corals look like now and for what your No3 is now or better was in the last two weeks on a everyday test.
Knowing that you can make yourself a schedule.
Read up my No3 thread. http://www.marsh-reef.org/marine-and-reef-general-discussion/48808-no3.html
 
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Cody

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Nice thread about NO3. Is the KNO3 adding a lot of potassium to the water? Also, which kit are yall using to check potassium. Still curious about that one.
 

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Redsea for the potassium.
The stump remover method doesn't add any K to the water.
 
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Interesting. I wonder how potassium nitrate doesn't add potassium to the water.
 

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Potassium level is to low in the mix.
You only mix 2tsp to 2cups or water and mix that again with 2 cups more.
I dose only 7ml to my tank and potassium is around the 400 for months.

Note, with a healthy balanced system the uptake on potassium can be large by corals and due to the ULNS that you fighting.
 
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I dont understand your comment. You said that the potassium level is too low in the KNO3 mix but that you dose it and you're good for months? I'm obvious not catching the message that you're throwing.
 

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Well I'm sorry if you don't catch it.
It's pretty simple if you ask me.
It does of course raise the potassium level but it will stay well in range and it's not enough to worry about.
It boosts potassium about half as much as nitrate, so adding 2 ppm nitrate adds 1 ppm potassium.
Against a background of 400 ppm potassium, that isn't very significant.
Than you have the roll of Po4 as that should stay low, most high levels of Po4 is because of feedings, quality food will give you a quality Po4 reading too.
When Po4 stays low (below the 0.04) your potassium will deplete a bit faster too, find the right balance and know how to keep it there and you're solid.
Corals have a large uptake too on potassium, if I don't test for potassium on a weekly schedule it will drop below the 380 range so extra dosing is still a must as my KNo3 dosing can't keep up with that.
 
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Back to my original quetion, what role does potassium play in coral growth and coloration? I know they need it, but what do they need it for?
 

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Well I'm sorry if you don't catch it.
It's pretty simple if you ask me.
It does of course raise the potassium level but it will stay well in range and it's not enough to worry about.
It boosts potassium about half as much as nitrate, so adding 2 ppm nitrate adds 1 ppm potassium.
Against a background of 400 ppm potassium, that isn't very significant.
Than you have the roll of Po4 as that should stay low, most high levels of Po4 is because of feedings, quality food will give you a quality Po4 reading too.
When Po4 stays low (below the 0.04) your potassium will deplete a bit faster too, find the right balance and know how to keep it there and you're solid.
Corals have a large uptake too on potassium, if I don't test for potassium on a weekly schedule it will drop below the 380 range so extra dosing is still a must as my KNo3 dosing can't keep up with that.
Ben
I have a couple questions .
My potassium always is over 440 ppm, in fact I bought a new kit , thinking that my previous test kit was wrong, but today I Finished my weekly test and potassium gave 440 and my Po4 with hanna ulr gave me 0. So what happen if you never see that potassium drop?
My no3 is also stable at 5 ppm.
My red colors in the aquarium looks good except for the might dragon that I got for you that is more like green.
Thanks

Enviado desde mi SM-G935T mediante Tapatalk
 

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Ben
I have a couple questions .
My potassium always is over 440 ppm, in fact I bought a new kit , thinking that my previous test kit was wrong, but today I Finished my weekly test and potassium gave 440 and my Po4 with hanna ulr gave me 0. So what happen if you never see that potassium drop?
My no3 is also stable at 5 ppm.
My red colors in the aquarium looks good except for the might dragon that I got for you that is more like green.
Thanks

Enviado desde mi SM-G935T mediante Tapatalk

Nothing will happen 440 isn't bad if your Po4 is low.
Test you new mixed salt water before a water change and tell me what your K level is.
I the Mighty turns green it needs more light, bring it up about 4" and see in a week what happens.
Are dosing anything in your tank on the moment that might also contain potassium?
 

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Nothing will happen 440 isn't bad if your Po4 is low.
Test you new mixed salt water before a water change and tell me what your K level is.
I the Mighty turns green it needs more light, bring it up about 4" and see in a week what happens.
Are dosing anything in your tank on the moment that might also contain potassium?
Let me move the coral. No that I know , I only dose zeovit stuff and my salt is red Sea blue bucket.

Enviado desde mi SM-G935T mediante Tapatalk
 

Diesel

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Read up in the zeovit.com website about the redsea salt.
I believe they recommend the Tropic marin
 
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