Questions about RO/DI systems (1 Viewer)

[smootie]

I'm new to RO/DI systems and wasn't sure where to start. According to the BRS recommendations, I should get a 5-stage since Houston water has chloramines in it, and the TDS averages 243 ppm which seems low enough to not need a 6-stage. However, I'd rather get a second opinion from someone who is actually using an RO/DI system to filter Houston Main System water.

1. Which RO/DI system are you using and would you recommend it?

2. Where do you have your system installed? How hot does it get in that location?

3. What are you doing with the wastewater?

Thanks!

 

[Luman01]

If ur going to have a nano a ro/di is not worth U can go to oceanlife aquariums and buy water it's pretty cheap I get 20 gallons of salt water and 10 gallons of rodi for 20$. But if ur planing on having a big tank like over 50-60 gallons then a rodi would be worth it.

 

[Luman01]

In my opinion

 

[Bigfishy]

A 5 stage will work for you. I did a four stage for a few years and had no problem. You do need a carbon filter that is rated for chloramine. To me is is more about the convenience of not having to haul water around.


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[johntdaballa]

I went a little fancy with vertex puratek 100 gph . Booster oumps helps alot. I had my installed in n the bathroom in the garage . It was cool in my garage, temperature never passed 80-85. I use waste water for watering my grass/plants


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[Diesel]

I've used either from 3 to 7 staged RODI's all work flawless when filters are installed right and you have a booster pump.
Most pressure in the Houston area is around the that your RODI will display without booster pump is somewhere between 30 and 45 PSI.
RODI's will filter 100% with pressure 60 psi or higher.
Last three years I run this baby and will never go back to another.

You can program this unit on time of the day or not of course.
It will tell you when you need to replace a filter, has leak detection with a floor sensor but also with pressure loss it will shut down.
It will auto shut when your tank is full due to the pressure it will get by not dripping no auto or float valves needed.
It auto flush but you can also program it on a set time of filtering to flush it.
Mine flushes every 5 gallon water it filters.
Booster pump will give a pressure of give and take between 125 and 140 PSI
Waste water loss 1 on 2.
Replace my sediment filter every month, I'm using the chloraguard chloramine reduction blocks (crabon) every 9 months and DI resin every year or so not that I have to as color is still less than 50% changed on the media.
The RO membrane about every 18 months.
The more you flush the more you get out of your filters.

This baby loves my garage where temps are over 110 the last few days but water is transported to a double insulated room with a AC in the garage where temps are constant 77.
Waste water for my fountains and misting system around the house.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yeow... careful guys. There are a number of things that are not quite accurate in this thread.

Don't think that higher TDS = need for more stages. It doesn't work that way.

Russ

 

[Luman01]

Wouldn't it mean u would need a speacial filter? I'm curious on y that high tds wouldn't mean more stages.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

There are only two components of these systems that remove TDS - 95%+ is removed by the RO membrane, and the DI removes the last few percent. If you test the TDS before and after your prefilters (sediment filters and carbon blocks) you'll see that they are about the same. Think about why we use sediment filters... to removed UNdissovled things. That's not TDS. And in most cases we use carbon blocks to remove chlorine - that's not a dissolved solid either.

You also pay a price in terms of pressure loss for each prefilter you add.

Russ