RO/DI water (1 Viewer)

[Wingnut]

Hey guys , just received my TDS meter and checked water , out of tap 287 ppm , my RO/DI water that I have measures 1 ppm is this good are bad. Thanks

 

[eraser2001]

That's no bad. But I prefer to have my DI water at 0 ppm.

Enviado desde mi SM-G935T mediante Tapatalk

 

[Wingnut]

Thanks , I do need to change my DI media we are in a MUD district water quality is pretty bad around here

 

[Clownfish Chris]

Yours is a heck of a lot better than mine. My tds meter errored out once. It is normally over 800 ppm

 

[Wingnut]

Well I guess mine is not that bad , but I did not no for sure if the RO / DI should be better , I did just replace my membrane it did fail and took out my DI media after about 25 gallons of water.

 

[rparker2112]

My water out of tap is 850-900 tds

 

[Fish Keeper82]

My water out of tap is 850-900 tds

mine is consistent at about 175ppm

 

[Mark L.]

mine is consistent at about 175ppm

Same with mine. I'm right at 175ppm. 800-900ppm is crazy. I think I'd be scared to drink it. LOL

 

[rparker2112]

Same with mine. I'm right at 175ppm. 800-900ppm is crazy. I think I'd be scared to drink it. LOL

My father in law drinks it. I have it tested every year and its potable, just ALOT of sediment and stuff in it. DI resin last maybe 80 gallons of im lucky.

 

[Wingnut]

I only get about a 100 gallons out of my DI resin , that is why I bought a TDS meter , I may have something else going on , but my sediment filter gets pretty dirty also.

 

[rparker2112]

I only get about a 100 gallons out of my DI resin , that is why I bought a TDS meter , I may have something else going on , but my sediment filter gets pretty dirty also.

Before I had a booster, I got maybe 30 gallons of DI water. So that seemed to help me ALOT. Granted I went from 30 psi to 80psi

 

[Wingnut]

I don't have a psi gauge on my system , so am not sure is more pressure better obviously it is

 

[steveb]

If your MUD is using chloramines make sure you are using either a catalytic carbon cartridge (like a di cartridge but filled w/catalytic carbon) in addition to your regular carbon cartridge or one of the chloramine busting carbon cartridges. Chloramines will kill your RO membrane lickety split.

When your putting out 1 ppm from your di resin the issue is what is making that 1 ppm?

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

From the above article..

Several issues arise relating to the depletion of the DI resins that aquarists need to be aware of. Primary among these is that when a DI resin becomes depleted, that does not simply mean that the water passes through just as it came from the RO effluent. It may actually be much worse from an aquarist’s perspective. The reason for this is that while the DI resin is functioning properly, all ions will be caught. But when it is depleted, not only the new ions are coming through and might show up in the product water, but so are all the ions that ever got into the DI resin in the first place. The total concentration of ions coming out of the exhausted DI resin will not be raised as compared to the RO's effluent, but which ions are released may be very different.

 

[Wingnut]

Ya I just buy the filters from LFS , I believe they are the ones Bulk Reef sales , I will check into the chloramine busting cartridges. Thanks

 

[Mark L.]

My father in law drinks it. I have it tested every year and its potable, just ALOT of sediment and stuff in it. DI resin last maybe 80 gallons of im lucky.

Have you thought about adding another sediment filter to your RO/DI unit? You can grab a filter housing and 1 micron sediment filter for about $23. Replacement filters run about $3. Much cheaper then replacing DI resin so soon. Just have your incoming tap water run through this before your RO/DI unit itself.

 

[Mark L.]

Ya I just buy the filters from LFS , I believe they are the ones Bulk Reef sales , I will check into the chloramine busting cartridges. Thanks

Like Steve mentioned, you need to contact your MUD district to see if they use chlorine or chloromines in your area. That will tell you which carbon block to buy. I called mine when I first bought my unit and I have chlorine in my water. I have 175ppm tap, 2ppm RO, 0ppm tds DI. My DI resin lasts a couple months and I make 65-70 gal every week.

 

[Wingnut]

I will give them a call , and add another sediment filter. Thanks

 

[steveb]

my setup is

1 micron sediment, choramine buster, chloramine buster, booster pump, ro membranes, mixed bed di, mixed bed di. I haven't checked the tap in a long time. I read 12 TDS out of the RO membranes and 0 out of the DI's.

 

[Wingnut]

Ya , I am doing water tonight and reading 0 ppm out of my RO/ DI , but after about 30 gallons of water my new DI resin is about an inch of it is already changed colors. Thanks for all the input Guys

 

[Fish Keeper82]

The thing that I do that makes my DI resin last way longer is let the RO unit run the first couple of mins without it going through the DI. When you initially run water through the RO unit it produces what's known as TDS creep(high TDS out of your unit fom initial start up) I've tested mine at 90ppm in the first couple of seconds then it slowly comes down to about 5ppm after 2 mins or so . If you run your unit for 2-3 mins just through the RO there is a lot of water with high TDS creep that you don't run through the the DI resin thus making it last longer.
My DI lasts me about 8 months.
Here is a good visual example

https://youtu.be/JWbKnsT-kLw