Sps unhappy (1 Viewer)

[Tiffany]

So I just got this guy (my first attempt at acros). I dipped in coral rx and placed in the middle of the tank. I gave him 3 days of low blue light until I started turning up the lights to acclimate. Salinity is good, alk, ph and nitrates are in check. Why would he lose color like this? What am I doing wrong? I have current USA leds and 2 t5s.

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[Clownfish Chris]

Stress causes bleaching. Keep your water parameters stable. Not just with in range. If your calsium is 440, it shouldn't be acceptable for it to be 410 two days later. You should always try to keep the same number with all parameters. My alk is 8.5 cal 440, mag 1450. Mag wavers some as I dose that weekly. Alk and cal I dose daily in the evening. I need to get dosing pumps.

I would also recommend starting with an easier sps like a montipora or birds nest.

Post up your spacific numbers, testing methods, and dosing methods. Someone with much more knowlage than me will chime in.

 

[FarmerTy]

Agreed, I'd start with an easier SPS, like a stylo, digitata, monti, or birdsnest as your tester piece.

Like Chris mentioned, specific parameters would be helpful to diagnose, particularly Ca, Alk, Mg, nitrates, and phosphates. Also, a FTS would help to see the environment it is in.

 

[Tiffany]

I dose reef fusion 1and 2 every evening. I have a phosphate removing media in. I have titration tests for ph (8.3) nitrates (8 to 10) and ammonia (0). I got my ca and mg tested at a store and they said it was good. They didn't give numbers.

I have a birds nest that is doing very well and not losing color. I also have a torch that is consistently happy.

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This pic is from last weekend. I am at work and can't get a pic today

 

[Clownfish Chris]

I know that many have reported STN when using a phosphate reducing media such as GFO. I don't see any of that and your polyp extension looks okay. It just looks stressed. It could be as a result. I would just get some macro algae for your sump instead. I would recommend getting a test kit for Cal, Alk, and Mag. I like the redsea kit personally. Dont trust the LFS's numbers. Test every day for a week and don't dose anything while testing. Chart the numbers. This will give you your consumption rate. I bet with your tank it would be minimal. I dont see much that would use up to much minerals. Also keep an eye on anything else that can fluctuate. Are you maintaining temperature throughout the day? Do you have an automatic top off to maintain salinity. I keep mine at 1.026. Not 1.025, not 1.027. Flow can even be a concern. You would be surprised how high the flow needs to be for some SPS. Stability is key.

 

[Clownfish Chris]

Dang it, I write in paragraphs and the site puts it all together into one paragraph. Sorry about that.

 

[Tiffany]

No worries. I don't have a top off yet. It is on my list. I do manually keep the salinity stable as I check and add fusion and water each day (very small amounts) I maybe only lose a cup or less each day.

Flow may be the problem. I will move it into a higher flow area and see if it helps

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[Tiffany]

Oh, and temp is a degree or so cooler at night with the lights off but the house stays at 74. Never higher. So the tank is usually at 78 to 79.

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[Clownfish Chris]

Sounds like you are on the right track.

 

[RR-MAN]

Yeah remove any phosphates removing media immediately.

Good news is the coral is still alive just bleached. Over time hopefully it recovers.


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[tinman]

Some acros can take months to color up so you have to be patient. Your coral doesn't look too bad except it has little or no polyp extension and that is not a good sign. How old is your tank?

 

[Tiffany]

The tank (glass)is new. I just upgraded from the original 1997 model tank. Most of the rocks are original. I've added a few new ones. The sand was all new when I moved it this last time, about 6 months ago. I had a little cycle when I moved it but nothing serious.

Also I checked and double checked calcium (450) and magnesium (1250). I titrated with seachem tests. Nitrates still around 10. Nitrites are 0. Salinity is 35 ppt (refractometor) and ph is 8.3. I have no idea what is going wrong but now I have 2 unhappy bubble tips. I just don't know what is it. If anyone has any ideas or would be willing to help solve my mystery problem I would be forever grateful. And give you the spilt of the bubble that will happen shortly due to the stress, sigh.

Phosphate media is also removed. Skimmer is pulling almost nothing out right now. And I have one current usa dual channel led light and 2 t5s.

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[Clownfish Chris]

Get that mag up. Your calsium looks fine. What is your alk? Is there a possibility that there is copper in your system?

Here is is what I would do, three 50% water changes two days apart each. Test the new water before the change for alk cal and mag. Maintain those levels after the changes.

The BTA is indicative of an instability of some sort.

 

[webster1234]

I didn't see you mention anything about phosphates either. Have you tested for them? If your skimmer isn't pulling anything out, could it be dirty? Mine skims less when the neck gets dirty. It must break up the bubbles or something. It also might need adjusting.

Worst case, go get a Triton test and send it off. They are about $50 at most local LFS. I do one of my tank about every 6 months just to confirm nothing is getting too far out of whack.

But like Chris said, a few 50% water changes will just about replace your water and should clear up any deficiencies.

If it were me, I would get a Triton test today and send it off before you start your water changes. Then you could possibly find out what was wrong and correct it for the future, while getting your system happy with the big water changes.

The Triton will answer your questions about any unwanted heavy metals like copper too.

And...if your Triton test comes back good, then maybe you can start focusing on things other than water, like lighting or O2 saturation.

 

[Tiffany]

Ok. I will do the suggested water changes and take a sample to send off as well. I'll let y'all know how things look after that

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[webster1234]

Don't forget to do the Triton test first before you start the water changes. If you do it after the water changes, it will probably look perfect. I know both Dennis at FJW and Nick at Oceanlife Aquariums have Triton tests.

 

[jqsquared]

Dumb comment but ensure your RODI filters are clean/new for 0ppm water.

The second picture of the coral looks better than the first. Light polyp extension. Looks like a beautiful piece. Will most likely take a while to color up but as others have said stability will be key in long term success.

 

[Clownfish Chris]

It's not a dumb comment at all! I overlook the simplest of things at times.

Tiffany, how is it coming?

 

[Mark L.]

Also I will add, don't beat yourself up over 1 coral not making it. Read through the thread we have going here about water chemistry. Make sure all of your levels are correct and stable throughout the day. If they are you may want to borrow the par meter as well to test your lights. Once you know water chemistry is good, lighting is good, just keep at it. Let the tank age more and try more acros. You WILL buy some that just can't take the stress of moving to a new environment and will bleach out/rtn and die on you. It just happens.

Acros can be very finicky. The slightest imbalance they they will die. I've killed literally 100's over the years fine tuning my tank. Another thing I didn't see you mention is GAC. Are you using carbon? If so what kind, how much? In a reactor or bag?

 

[Tiffany]

So I just bit the bullet and bought 2 hydra 26s. I also upgraded my ATO. I found a problem that may have contributed to my coral issue. My water chemistry is stable. Everything came back as normal. So I'm just trying to guess what might have done it. I'm beginning to think it was just a bad/stressed piece. Everything else is happy.

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