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135gl front glass replacement. (1 Viewer)

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padanky

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well the plan was to scoop up my nieghbors usable 135gl for $200, but in the process of cleaning it up for me, it fell over busting the front glass. Well I went ahead and took it for free.

What kind of choices do I have on replacing the front pane, glass, acrylic, etc?

And how hard is it to do, steps, etc?

Thanks guys.
 

RR-MAN

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Bad for neighbor, good for you. :D

Is it a nice looking tank/worth fixing?
 
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padanky

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It was his main tank until his buddy gave him one with built in overflows.

Basic 135 w/o overflows, he gave me his HOB with it. Some scratches, the glass that broke had a chip in the edge (broke in other places not related to chip).

If the glass is cheap enough I guess it's worth it. Look to be going for $200 and up on craigslists for another used probably same condition minus the broken glass.
 

trb

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glassgages.com sells the sheet glass by the sqft, but you also have to pay for the edge finishing and shipping to their Houston drop off point. sbfuller I think got a Starphire front for his tank recently from them. Might be worth getting a quote and then see if any local places can meet or beat it. Maybe you can end up with a nicer overall tank for about the same $200!

http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=42
 
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padanky

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Thanks.

I called local Admiral Glass & Mirror and got quoted $134.74 for a 6x2x3/8. Regular glass. 281-332-0588 League City.

Anyone ever tried a mirrored background!? Or do you think saltwater drips would screw it up like older mirrors.
 

c_a_otoole

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Might as well take it off, that way you can see what you are working with. It really isn't hard once you get the old piece out and clean up all the old silacone. I'm no expert but have replaced a few panes before. Let me know if I can help.
 
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padanky

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worked on the tank a couple hours after work today, center brace was a pain. Brace is loose but figures, it has a metal band that runs thru it and over the outside glass. Seems like it's going to take for ever to get the top trim off.

Any pointers on getting the trim off besides a razorblade, maybe heat gun?
 
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padanky

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Start of the project:

l.jpg
 
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padanky

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I got it apart, glass is out. I guess I should strip all the old silicone out and reseal the whole inside when it comes time.

When I took the trim off it came apart into four pieces, this is normal right? I kinda hoping it would come off in one piece.

Front glass is 72x20.
 

trb

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Yes, many of the larger tanks just have 4 pieces of trim that is custom cut to the tank size. My 120g is the same way, top and bottom. I don't think many of them are actually glued together into one solid piece. IMO the trim is just there for looks and to cover the edge of the glass.

Go ahead and remove the silicone from all of the joints so you will have a continuous watertight seal on the whole tank. And I would recommend getting some of the Momentive RTV100 series (108 clear, 103 black) silicone adhesive from Graingers to attach the new panel and to seal it. Just make sure it is not an old tube, as silicone does have a shelf life of less than a year.
 
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padanky

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How many tubes should I need? They are about $12 a tube before shipping. I think I'm going to go black, my bowfront has black, and you know what they say. Once you go black you'll never go back. Lol
 

trb

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You should be able to get it at your local store. I think one of these should be close to you:

2 Branch: 355
1222 S Loop W
Houston, TX 77054-4012
Phone: (713) 748-8280
Fax: (855) 329-2839

or:

9 Branch: 351
1251 Hall Court
Deer Park, TX 77536-6558
Phone: (281) 241-3041
Fax: (855) 329-2839

I would think you should get 3 or so if you are doing the whole tank, just to be sure. I haven't done it, but I know Felix has resealed his tank. I'm sure he would have a better idea of how much to get.
 
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padanky

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Alright thanks. I jumped the gun and bought lights before I even finished the tank or stand and canopy. So the glass might have to wait a little bit...

Deer Park is fairly close to me.
 
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padanky

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trb said:
Go ahead and remove the silicone from all of the joints so you will have a continuous watertight seal on the whole tank. And I would recommend getting some of the Momentive RTV100 series (108 clear, 103 black) silicone adhesive from Graingers to attach the new panel and to seal it. Just make sure it is not an old tube, as silicone does have a shelf life of less than a year.

Ordered 3 tubes of the Black Momentive RTV100 Series. Cost me just under $50 shipped, I would've probably never got around to driving and getting it and the cost of paying a couple tolls there and back and gas would've cost the same anyway ($10 to ship).

Have all the old silicone cut out and all cleaned off, even sprayed the back glass Black. I'm waiting on a friend to get back at me, He used to work for Binswanger Glass and said he could get it cheaper than the $135 I was quoted somewhere else.

So I guess first I'll run a small bead around the edges of the glass and find some clamps to hold the glass firm, let it set for a couple days and clean it up like the rest of the seams. Then get it set-up for the main sealing of the tank.
 
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padanky

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Putting it back on, and the center brace. I'll be building the stand and canopy too. The one in the pic is only like 30" tall.

I'm picking up some 250 watt MH from Lilred1995vette at the Picnic Saturday.

I'll probably use my current 55x4 T5's in between the two MH Pendants, then figure out how long to run them during the day.
 
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