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add a chiller- pay an extra $200 a month (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ReefNoob
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MarkieB
Guest
Listening to some home show this weekend they said we had a break the last 2 summers! Last 2 years average temps where way down below normal.
They also said this year is back on track to usual Houston temps, the average temps are what they should normally be, and finally said get ready for high electric bills. "Your air conditioner is going to run like it has not in the last 2 years". So get ready!
They also said this year is back on track to usual Houston temps, the average temps are what they should normally be, and finally said get ready for high electric bills. "Your air conditioner is going to run like it has not in the last 2 years". So get ready!
MarkieB
Guest
Usage is a better comparison since cost varies!
In Noobs case I am already confident it is not his chiller based on the wattage and run time he gave.
Hopefully I am lucky and don't get the heat wrath on me too badly.
It is funny to look at my usage because I can tell the story that fits with it.
2006 needed new insulation and air unit replaced.
2007 Feb-March replaced condenser unit, added radiant barrier and insulation in week spots. 2007 summer using 300-500 kilo a month less. 2007 Nov I have no idea!
2008 Jan decided to keep the house very cold and use heavy blankets at night. I just like it that way! 2008 Tank conversion/cycle 2 tanks running at the same time. March old tank came down. April pond pump was clogged in the impeller and I did not know it!
In Noobs case I am already confident it is not his chiller based on the wattage and run time he gave.
Hopefully I am lucky and don't get the heat wrath on me too badly.
It is funny to look at my usage because I can tell the story that fits with it.
2006 needed new insulation and air unit replaced.
2007 Feb-March replaced condenser unit, added radiant barrier and insulation in week spots. 2007 summer using 300-500 kilo a month less. 2007 Nov I have no idea!
2008 Jan decided to keep the house very cold and use heavy blankets at night. I just like it that way! 2008 Tank conversion/cycle 2 tanks running at the same time. March old tank came down. April pond pump was clogged in the impeller and I did not know it!
Heck, my bill went up 200 dollars from May to June and there was no change in what I was running in my house, at all. Electric company called it supply and demand... I called it the shaft.
I'm "seriously" considering sending my electric company (via certified mail, UPS w/signature, etc.. of course) a box of change that amounts to $550. LOL!
I'm "seriously" considering sending my electric company (via certified mail, UPS w/signature, etc.. of course) a box of change that amounts to $550. LOL!
MarkieB
Guest
flipside said:
You could do that but most likely they will never even know!
Here a bankers inside information!
Most mid to large companies do not process their own payments.
Banks have large departments that do payment processing as a service.
The company simply receives an electronic advice with the deposit amount, accounts process and payment amount.
MarkieB said:flipside said:
You could do that but most likely they will never even know!
Here a bankers inside information!
Most mid to large companies do not process their own payments.
Banks have large departments that do payment processing as a service.
The company simply receives an electronic advice with the deposit amount, accounts process and payment amount.
And yet another dream.... down the drain...
MarkieB
Guest
The chiller $$$ got me thinking about mine and best efficiency.
I decided to do some testing to make sure I was getting max results from the chiller. I am using manufactures recommend flow range.
I had the pump fully opened and dumping chiller water into a cup sitting in my sump. I added a thermometer. Playing with the flow rate all within the suggested range, I was able to drop the out flowing temp from where it was 77.4 to 75.1. BIG drop and something you chiller guys might want to check out on yours. In my case the flow rate makes a huge difference in the efficiency, again still within the recommended flow rate which is a large window!
I decided to do some testing to make sure I was getting max results from the chiller. I am using manufactures recommend flow range.
I had the pump fully opened and dumping chiller water into a cup sitting in my sump. I added a thermometer. Playing with the flow rate all within the suggested range, I was able to drop the out flowing temp from where it was 77.4 to 75.1. BIG drop and something you chiller guys might want to check out on yours. In my case the flow rate makes a huge difference in the efficiency, again still within the recommended flow rate which is a large window!
ReefNoob
Supporting Member
Mark,I don't think that's really efficiency gain.
The lesser the flow, the higher the temperature drop for a fixed duty or work performed by the chiller. In other words,yes you are getting cooler water but less of it,which will the same amount of time to cool your tank.
Q removed = F*cp*deltaT so for fixed Q,you can play with F and alter T
That's also why the ranges are so broad,because anyone can find hissweet spot,which is usually the max flow you can flow through the chilller if it's inline.
By the way,I called the electric company(Reliant) and said they can do a calibration test for free if it has not been done in 4 years.great I say,otherwise I'll be happy to pay the $6 anyway
It turns out that their records indicate this meter has not been tested since 1964 8O
I'm hoping for some seriuos deviation here!
The lesser the flow, the higher the temperature drop for a fixed duty or work performed by the chiller. In other words,yes you are getting cooler water but less of it,which will the same amount of time to cool your tank.
Q removed = F*cp*deltaT so for fixed Q,you can play with F and alter T
That's also why the ranges are so broad,because anyone can find hissweet spot,which is usually the max flow you can flow through the chilller if it's inline.
By the way,I called the electric company(Reliant) and said they can do a calibration test for free if it has not been done in 4 years.great I say,otherwise I'll be happy to pay the $6 anyway
It turns out that their records indicate this meter has not been tested since 1964 8O
I'm hoping for some seriuos deviation here!
MarkieB
Guest
ReefNoob said:
I did think about the less water, longer chiller time as a result. I don't know for sure the mathematics behind that. I will have to look around some. Logically thinking if that is the case then I should just have a wash.
I would be afraid if the meter had not been tested since 64.
I believe devices that rotate usually get a drag on them after age, rather than a speed up effect. I like the test ideal, but my meter being old as well, I am afraid they would tell me it is dragging and should be measuring more rather than less!
Good luck, let us know!
ReefNoob said:
I am afraid I don't know what this means!
Q = m Cp deltaT
energy transferred as heat = mass x specific heat capacity x change in temperature
i suppose that in this particular case f would stand for fluid.
energy transferred as heat = mass x specific heat capacity x change in temperature
i suppose that in this particular case f would stand for fluid.
ReefNoob
Supporting Member
yep sorry about the acronym
F is the mass flowrate of the fluid you're heating or cooling
cp is the heat capacity,which measure the amount of energy required to heat up by one degree a given mass(a lb) of such a fluid
delta T is the difference in temperature between the inlet and the outlet for that fluid
F is the mass flowrate of the fluid you're heating or cooling
cp is the heat capacity,which measure the amount of energy required to heat up by one degree a given mass(a lb) of such a fluid
delta T is the difference in temperature between the inlet and the outlet for that fluid
MarkieB
Guest
OK I don't get in A in math! I guess all that is to say I break even either way?
ReefNoob
Supporting Member
A+MarkieB said:
MarkieB
Guest
Then I will leave it as is with the pump throttled down a bit. I get a small electric break that way!
ReefNoob
Supporting Member
UPDATE
So the meter has been tested by Reliant and is 99.97% accurate( not bad for a 40 years old unit).
I'm back to square one,trying to figure out what's causing the surge in electricity consumption
So the meter has been tested by Reliant and is 99.97% accurate( not bad for a 40 years old unit).
I'm back to square one,trying to figure out what's causing the surge in electricity consumption
stdreb27
Guest
Another thing you might consider is that the meter reader screwed up? I had that happen to me last summer, they sent me a 600 dollar bill. I was ticked.
ReefNoob
Supporting Member
I was hoping for that but that's the first thing I checked.
The reading is fine...
The reading is fine...
