Adding kalk drip to my system (1 Viewer)

[Llama]

Lately I've been doing a few changes to make things run a bit smoother. This includes switching from a premixed 2-part in a bottle to the BRS 2-part system. I will still be manually dosing as opposed to throwing hundreds into dosing pumps. I am currently testing my consumption rate to get this on a regular schedule.

On to the real question. In addition to this I think I'd like to bring in a kalk dosing system. I was thinking about doing a DIY drip system. However I think this may be an issue since I already have an ATO. Would you guys recommend that I just convert my ATO container into the new kalk doser? Or should I keep this seperate and just run a jug?

I feel the jug would be easiest as far as cleaning since my ATO container is not the easiest to remove.

What do you guys think? How could I integrate this into the system?

 

[RR-MAN]

Kalk does not have to be mixed. Just dump it in ATO and that's all you got to do. Clean the ATO reservoir once in a while because you will have some kalk build up over time.

I used to run Kalk through a reactor but ever since I started using the BRS two part, not using kalk anymore.

 

[Llama]

How far would I need to raise my ATO pump so keep the slurry in it's place?

Also, what made you stop the kalk?

 

[flipside]

2 part dosing is just easier to do and cheaper to get started doing. You can measure your results faster, and calculate your needs quicker with online calculators. Is it better? I'm not too sure about that... But, it's worked very well with my tank's needs.

I just recently got a Kalk Reactor and all the stuff for a Calcium Reactor from Dennis/FJW. I'm going to set that up on my big tank, and put the 2 part dosing system, that you've seen, on the little tank I'm building. I'm going to see which one does better. I'm sure I'll enjoy not having to mix up 2 part solution every 4-6 months with the Ca Reactor setup, but I'm sure that I'll have a lot of fun dialing it all in ::

My dosing pumps are the BRS variety and they cost me $99 each, at the time I purchased them. I purchased two of them. I dump Mg in the tank once a week... about 20-24oz keeps me above 1350. The pumps are literally set and forget, and function off my Apex's timer. It's really simple to do, and you don't need to worry about your tank getting dosed too quickly, or not at all. That's always nice.

I'm not a strong advocate of putting Kalkwasser right into an ATO reservoir. 1) You do need to elevate the pump to get the good stuff into the tank and 2) it will cake up on you if you don't set another pump up to stir it up every so often. It gets messy... REAL messy, after awhile; but, it does work.

The only thing I don't like about 2 part dosing is mixing up the stuff every 4-6 months and my pH swings -+ 0.3 to 0.4 every night/morning. I hate that. I would like that swing to be much less, and my pH around 8.5 all the time.

I'll let you know how it goes with my stuff and of course, you are more than welcome to come have a look-see when I'm done. Good luck to you on this one, man. I'm sure you'll get many opinions.

 

[Llama]

Thanks Leo. We need to get together for a few beers anyway, so we can discuss the dosing pumps and your new calc system further.

So it seems you guys don't do both 2-part and kalk together? I was thinking that I would dial my levels in w/ 2-part, then keep it all stable with the kalk drip. Would that be overkill?

$99 a pump is not too shabby at all. I could swing that for a set it and forget it system. Especially if I can let the RKE run them. Mixing every 4-6 months sounds GREAT to me.

I'll be spending my evenings next week cleaning up all my wiring, installing the RKE (FINALLY), and testing water each day for my consumption calulations.

Thanks for all the help so far. Anyone else with input feel free to post up!

 

[RGH69]

A) Some of the research I have found says that you simply use the effluent from the kalk reactor to replace all top-off. B)Some also say keeping it separate from your ATO and adding Kalk effluent based on PH drop. I like the idea of method "A". Mainly because I'm lazy. Anyone else use method "A"?

 

[RR-MAN]

my pH around 8.5 all the time.
quote]

man that is high PH. Mine is around 8.2

I stopped using kalk because it's messy. The 2-part I mix once every couple of months and that is it. I do test DKH every weekend just to make sure the dosing pump is not acting up. I am paranoid.

 

[nicky]

Mike,

I put kalk in my gravity fed 7 gal top off water through a kent float valve. The valve of my container is 1 inch above the botton so it doesn't suck up the settlement. As water evaporate, it slowly add ro and kalk together. This has work for me for many years.

 

[nicky]

oh, if you are ever in the katy area, stop by and check out my new tank.

 

[Llama]

I JUST GOT HOME AND MY ********************* FLOAT SWITCH GOT STUCK OPEN AND DUMPED 5 ********************* GALLONS OF RO/DI INTO MY ********************* SYSTEM!!!!!!!

YES I AM YELLING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Everything seems ok right now. Suggestions please.

 

[nicky]

bummer. I've have always use the kent valve. for some reason , other float valve are not big enough to put pressure to close it off. hope all is well.

 

[nicky]

how much did your sg drop?

 

[Llama]

Totally sucks.

My SG is between 1.021 and 1.022

Should I just let this evap out or do I need to take action here?

Needless to say I am in the market for a new ATO switch. I'm so pissed right now. Had a terrible day at work. Just looking forward to coming home, feeding the fish, and chillin out watching the tank. Icing on the cake gentleman... icing on the damn cake.

 

[Llama]

I usually run at 1.026ish

 

[Llama]

Nick, I'll come check out the new tank for sure! Been a while since I saw that ugly mug.

 

[nicky]

22 isn't that bad. coral will be little stress. I would normally just add saltwater to my ato and let it gradually increase back up to 26. But if your ato is not working. just add little saltwater manually over a period of several days.

 

[Llama]

Funny enough everything looks as though nothing ever happened. I was mainly worried about the upscale lime green w/ purple polyp and coleman's purple slimer that I just mounted yesterday. But both have good polyp extension and look good.

 

[flipside]

I would take action. You should start the water changes, man. Get that SG back up. That's a quick swing and you might lose some corals over it. The fish will/should be fine.

That really sucks, bro.

 

[Llama]

It does, but is a learning experience none-the-less. My problem is that I am house-dog-cat sitting for a friend up in spring this weekend. I have my brother on a strict schedule of testing SG and watching for any decline of livestock. I think I may start WC's on Sunday when I get back home. Or if he reports anything negative I will run home and start mixing. That way I can have it ready to do a change tomorrow.

What SG should I have the water change water at? It was still at 1.022 (maybe a little more) as of an hour ago. So I was thinking of doing the first 20 gallons at 1.024, then the next day at 1.026.

?????

What a headache. On a more positive note the NAC7 is loving the higher water level. 11" makes it skim MUCH better than the 9" I had it at before the failure. hehehehehehehe

 

[Llama]

The reason I hesitate is because everything that I have read states that livestock can handle swings down much better than swings up. You guys correct me if I'm wrong here.

Also, my bro says that both the new additions (upscale lime green w/ purple polyp & Coleman's purple slimer) I was worried about have GREAT color and polyp extension.

Leo have you seen James' (Naka) tank? He's got some amazing pieces.