Good idea.
-
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Calcium RX setup (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mitchell77546
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Basically what I do. I run a higher flow rate and never touch the flow. I only tweak the pH/effluent.
OP
OP
mitchell77546
Supporting Member
My tank is never where i want it to be. I learned about vibrant the hard way (It killed all of my cheato which caused a release of nitrates i believe) I also upon taking down the 65G that i had a stagnant water issue. It has been one mistake after another for me. I think i have the new tank setup right hopefully i will have much more success. I'm gonna start with two part and go from there once i find a trident i think it will help me with all of the testing. Then again i have the little 25 Lagoon i got from ostentum that i dont even touch (Save for water changes) that's all softies and nems looks perfect all the time. Maybe KISS principle....
Stickboy97
Supporting Member
I like most have seen that video. I set up an old school masterflex pump to push the water through my GEO set-up. I believe now the same can be done with the pumps mentioned previously.
My opinion/experiences.
1) get a pump that is easy to adjust the flow
2) Buy a quality regulator (I bought one from Alan Le on Reef Central - it is awesome)
3) Determine how mush DKH your tank is using now & base your flow accordingly.
4) Test, test, test & test again in the beginning until you get it dialed in. ALK can swing pretty quick if you're not watching it. Test twice a day at least.
I rarely even look at the PH in my chamber. I have alerts set on my Apex in case it goes high or low to shut it all down. The Apex PH probe has been fine for that.
As my tank begins to drop in DKH, I up the volume on my pump. Once you up it too much, you'll need to increase your CO2. Its a patient mans game, so don't rush it.
My opinion/experiences.
1) get a pump that is easy to adjust the flow
2) Buy a quality regulator (I bought one from Alan Le on Reef Central - it is awesome)
3) Determine how mush DKH your tank is using now & base your flow accordingly.
4) Test, test, test & test again in the beginning until you get it dialed in. ALK can swing pretty quick if you're not watching it. Test twice a day at least.
I rarely even look at the PH in my chamber. I have alerts set on my Apex in case it goes high or low to shut it all down. The Apex PH probe has been fine for that.
As my tank begins to drop in DKH, I up the volume on my pump. Once you up it too much, you'll need to increase your CO2. Its a patient mans game, so don't rush it.
OP
OP
mitchell77546
Supporting Member
There is just too little room under the stand for the rx so there is that as well. I just found a steal of a deal on a reefbot. I’ve heard bad reviews but owners I’ve spoken to say they love it. Will give a try regardless
Why not start with Kalk first. Then move to 2-part. It’s easier.
Hi guys! I know I'm a little late to the party, but I've been distracted with another hobby and was working on clearing out round two of hair algae woes.
Dang Sugar Land water!
Any way... just some background on me for this topic. I've been solidly reefing since around 2007 - 2008 "ish". I don't know if that's considered "old school mentality" but I try to stay up with the reef trends.
I have done manual dosing, kalk (so many ways!), 2 part, balling, old school calcium reactor setups, automatic calcium reactor (mine was a PacSun), and now... doing what I feel is right. I kind of do a hybrid of all that I've learned, and I am using newer technogies to fit my reefing style and budget. Isn't technology great?!!!
First, there's a couple of things I would like to say about the video presented.
Needle (Any) Valves on Effluent Drip Line:
Carbondoser CO2 (or any type) of Bubble Count Regulation
Setting up pH Value slowly
Now... here are some notables that will make your calcium reactor experience a great one!
Doesn't really matter what calcium reactor you get nowadays.
Alkalinity Monitoring
Bubble Rate of CO2
Over-Pressurizing the Calcium Reactor
Please remember that calcium reactors are not actually used for calcium. While you can get some level of calcium from it, it's really to keep your alkalinity in check. It also doses some trace elements and will add phosphate. Not a huge deal if you keep up with your water changes, or have a great way to export excessive nutrients. Most of use macro to aid in this, as well as water changes (separately, or some hybrid mix of both). I use a turf scrubber (which introduces more complexities, but that's a different story). If you are looking to increase your calcium alongside pH and other awesome "cheap" bennies, a kalk reactor should be researched (again... a whole other topic).
Finally, I do agree with 2 part to start out with for most. Heck... I did! But, should you go this route, be sure to watch your salinity. It will slowly rise and is easily mitigated with water changes. But, since calcium reactors are so easy to setup, and cost way less down the line, my motto is "buy once, cry once." If you know you're going to be in the hobby for life, there's no sense in delaying it.
HTH and definitely open to more discussion on this!
By the way... I really hope you're all well out there! I know I've been a bit of a hermit these days, but it's not by design!
/Leo
Dang Sugar Land water!
Any way... just some background on me for this topic. I've been solidly reefing since around 2007 - 2008 "ish". I don't know if that's considered "old school mentality" but I try to stay up with the reef trends.
I have done manual dosing, kalk (so many ways!), 2 part, balling, old school calcium reactor setups, automatic calcium reactor (mine was a PacSun), and now... doing what I feel is right. I kind of do a hybrid of all that I've learned, and I am using newer technogies to fit my reefing style and budget. Isn't technology great?!!!
First, there's a couple of things I would like to say about the video presented.
Needle (Any) Valves on Effluent Drip Line:
- Most failures I've seen IRL (I've seen 2... long time ago, though), and read about, are due to this.
- It can clog at some point, and could create too much back pressure in the reactor.
- In extreme cases, back pressure could cause cracking of the reactor, or blow out welded seams.
- On a good note... a lot of reactors these days are built very well.
- I have no needle valves or anything in-line on my exit tubing. My logic here is that... should you build up too much pressure... it has a way to exit the reactor.
- Is the calcium reactor passing gas at this point? Yes!
- Is the calcium reactor passing gas at this point? Yes!
Carbondoser CO2 (or any type) of Bubble Count Regulation
- I have had new and used ones of these things. They are great at counting bubbles, but that's where it's greatness ends.
- This is how we used-to do it, so yeah... they were great at that!
- Many believe these are not needed anymore, though I recommend you do what you understand.
- I just saw that the guy had one in the video, but even he understood that bubble rate is a harder way to tune your calcium reactor.
- Don't get me wrong! It's very good to know "how" to do this! It gives one a strong sense of understanding; however, as we all now know... there are easier and more efficient ways to get to "melt point." (I really like that way of saying it.... )
- Don't get me wrong! It's very good to know "how" to do this! It gives one a strong sense of understanding; however, as we all now know... there are easier and more efficient ways to get to "melt point." (I really like that way of saying it....
- I just saw that the guy had one in the video, but even he understood that bubble rate is a harder way to tune your calcium reactor.
Setting up pH Value slowly
- I agree with starting at 7.4 to 7.5 and testing every 24 hours (alk) if you are starting off a tank with a calcium reactor, right off the bat.
- The logic here is that for newer tanks, where alk is not in high demand, you may have enough "melt" to keep up with demands.
- There are two ways to fine tune your tank's alk demands with a calcium reactor.
- pH value for "melt point"
- Adjusting on pH controller or tank conroller via the probe installed into the calcium reactor, or the in a cup (of some nature) where the effluent is dripping into the tank
- Drip rate of effluent
- How quickly the effluent is entering the tank
- pH value for "melt point"
- People tend to forget that both of these matter. On a new tank, drip rate is only so "adjustable." As is pH rate.
- Keep in mind that no matter what "pH melt point" is set at, within the reactor, you are going to get "some level" of so-called "melt."
- It really makes short work of things if you start with pH.
- Again, if you have a higher demand of alk (say like, your transitioning from 2-part to a calcium reactor), you will not need to worry about fine tuning pH as much. 6.4 to 6.5 is typically a good number on course media. 6.7 to 6.8, IME, is good for Reborn.
- Most people with more established alkalinity needs just work on adjusting their effluent drip rate.
- If this doesn't make sense, I'm more than happy to explain in person what I mean by this. This is much easier to explain in person, and in action.
Now... here are some notables that will make your calcium reactor experience a great one!
Doesn't really matter what calcium reactor you get nowadays.
- Again, quality and availability have really come a long way! We used to have to build our own because of the misunderstandings "back in the day."
- So many to choose from!
- Would recommend the reputable companies though!
- Get one that you can afford but research it first (YouTube, message forums, groups on FB, etc...)
- FWIW, I got mine on a flash sale from BRS! Watch out for great deals like that!
Alkalinity Monitoring
- With the advent of KH Director, the Neptune Trident, etc... life is so much easier!
- The greatest limiting factor here being "price." Even the reagent to use these cost money, so do your research.
- With an automatic alkalinity tester you can adjust the calcium reactor, let it stabilize for 24 hours, then test...
- ::sigh:: How nice!
- The electronic Hanna checkers are a great solution for fine tuning your calcium reactors.
- Fairly accurate
- We've been using them for years
- Won't break the bank
Bubble Rate of CO2
- I talked about this a little above, but....
- While this doesn't matter as much, there is a bubble count "happy medium" depending on the size of your calcium reactor.
- The faster you dose CO2, the longer it takes for the media to be saturated for that so-called "melt point." It all stablizes in the long run, but it's a good idea to actually be able to count the bubbles if you can. Not too fast, and not too slow.
- This will keep your solenoid from clicking off and on too much.
- Remember... the solenoid is electronic, therefore it too has a shelf life (keep a spare?).
- While this doesn't matter as much, there is a bubble count "happy medium" depending on the size of your calcium reactor.
Over-Pressurizing the Calcium Reactor
- It's great that this was brought up here!
- IME, this is null if you don't put anything that could obstruct your exiting effluent flow.
- With a continuous duty perastaltic pump setup pushing the water through the calcium reactor, it creates the perfect "pressurized" environment for the CO2 to do it's job.
- It's arguable that CO2 would be used more efficiently should you "pull" it through the calcium reactor, but I'd imagine that's plausible (not in a way that is overly costly, or even noticeable though... again... this is IME).
- The exiting effluent line will exhaust any over-pressurized situations that might occur... well... in theory
- This is all dependent on the type of calcium reactor you buy, and if it was engineered correctly (this is why I'm careful with my statements here... you have to know what your looking at with the calcium reactors... or buy from a reputable company)
- With a continuous duty perastaltic pump setup pushing the water through the calcium reactor, it creates the perfect "pressurized" environment for the CO2 to do it's job.
- I also recommend that wherever you drip "any" effluent, place it in clear site.
- I use a Neptune magnet that hold probes/lines right in the front of my sump. Clearly visible to watch for build up and easily check for clogs when I'm maintaining the tank.
- IME, this is null if you don't put anything that could obstruct your exiting effluent flow.
Please remember that calcium reactors are not actually used for calcium. While you can get some level of calcium from it, it's really to keep your alkalinity in check. It also doses some trace elements and will add phosphate. Not a huge deal if you keep up with your water changes, or have a great way to export excessive nutrients. Most of use macro to aid in this, as well as water changes (separately, or some hybrid mix of both). I use a turf scrubber (which introduces more complexities, but that's a different story). If you are looking to increase your calcium alongside pH and other awesome "cheap" bennies, a kalk reactor should be researched (again... a whole other topic).
Finally, I do agree with 2 part to start out with for most. Heck... I did!
But, should you go this route, be sure to watch your salinity. It will slowly rise and is easily mitigated with water changes. But, since calcium reactors are so easy to setup, and cost way less down the line, my motto is "buy once, cry once." If you know you're going to be in the hobby for life, there's no sense in delaying it.HTH and definitely open to more discussion on this!
By the way... I really hope you're all well out there! I know I've been a bit of a hermit these days, but it's not by design!
/Leo
I almost read all of that.Hi guys! I know I'm a little late to the party, but I've been distracted with another hobby and was working on clearing out round two of hair algae woes.
Dang Sugar Land water!
Any way... just some background on me for this topic. I've been solidly reefing since around 2007 - 2008 "ish". I don't know if that's considered "old school mentality" but I try to stay up with the reef trends.
I have done manual dosing, kalk (so many ways!), 2 part, balling, old school calcium reactor setups, automatic calcium reactor (mine was a PacSun), and now... doing what I feel is right. I kind of do a hybrid of all that I've learned, and I am using newer technogies to fit my reefing style and budget. Isn't technology great?!!!
First, there's a couple of things I would like to say about the video presented.
Needle (Any) Valves on Effluent Drip Line:
- Most failures I've seen IRL (I've seen 2... long time ago, though), and read about, are due to this.
- It can clog at some point, and could create too much back pressure in the reactor.
- In extreme cases, back pressure could cause cracking of the reactor, or blow out welded seams.
- On a good note... a lot of reactors these days are built very well.
- I have no needle valves or anything in-line on my exit tubing. My logic here is that... should you build up too much pressure... it has a way to exit the reactor.
- Is the calcium reactor passing gas at this point? Yes!
Carbondoser CO2 (or any type) of Bubble Count Regulation
- I have had new and used ones of these things. They are great at counting bubbles, but that's where it's greatness ends.
- This is how we used-to do it, so yeah... they were great at that!
- Many believe these are not needed anymore, though I recommend you do what you understand.
- I just saw that the guy had one in the video, but even he understood that bubble rate is a harder way to tune your calcium reactor.
- Don't get me wrong! It's very good to know "how" to do this! It gives one a strong sense of understanding; however, as we all now know... there are easier and more efficient ways to get to "melt point." (I really like that way of saying it....
Setting up pH Value slowly
- I agree with starting at 7.4 to 7.5 and testing every 24 hours (alk) if you are starting off a tank with a calcium reactor, right off the bat.
- The logic here is that for newer tanks, where alk is not in high demand, you may have enough "melt" to keep up with demands.
- There are two ways to fine tune your tank's alk demands with a calcium reactor.
- pH value for "melt point"
- Adjusting on pH controller or tank conroller via the probe installed into the calcium reactor, or the in a cup (of some nature) where the effluent is dripping into the tank
- Drip rate of effluent
- How quickly the effluent is entering the tank
- People tend to forget that both of these matter. On a new tank, drip rate is only so "adjustable." As is pH rate.
- Keep in mind that no matter what "pH melt point" is set at, within the reactor, you are going to get "some level" of so-called "melt."
- It really makes short work of things if you start with pH.
- Again, if you have a higher demand of alk (say like, your transitioning from 2-part to a calcium reactor), you will not need to worry about fine tuning pH as much. 6.4 to 6.5 is typically a good number on course media. 6.7 to 6.8, IME, is good for Reborn.
- Most people with more established alkalinity needs just work on adjusting their effluent drip rate.
- If this doesn't make sense, I'm more than happy to explain in person what I mean by this. This is much easier to explain in person, and in action.
Now... here are some notables that will make your calcium reactor experience a great one!
Doesn't really matter what calcium reactor you get nowadays.
- Again, quality and availability have really come a long way! We used to have to build our own because of the misunderstandings "back in the day."
- So many to choose from!
- Would recommend the reputable companies though!
- Get one that you can afford but research it first (YouTube, message forums, groups on FB, etc...)
- FWIW, I got mine on a flash sale from BRS! Watch out for great deals like that!
Alkalinity Monitoring
- With the advent of KH Director, the Neptune Trident, etc... life is so much easier!
- The greatest limiting factor here being "price." Even the reagent to use these cost money, so do your research.
- With an automatic alkalinity tester you can adjust the calcium reactor, let it stabilize for 24 hours, then test...
- ::sigh:: How nice!
- The electronic Hanna checkers are a great solution for fine tuning your calcium reactors.
- Fairly accurate
- We've been using them for years
- Won't break the bank
Bubble Rate of CO2
- I talked about this a little above, but....
- While this doesn't matter as much, there is a bubble count "happy medium" depending on the size of your calcium reactor.
- The faster you dose CO2, the longer it takes for the media to be saturated for that so-called "melt point." It all stablizes in the long run, but it's a good idea to actually be able to count the bubbles if you can. Not too fast, and not too slow.
- This will keep your solenoid from clicking off and on too much.
- Remember... the solenoid is electronic, therefore it too has a shelf life (keep a spare?).
Over-Pressurizing the Calcium Reactor
- It's great that this was brought up here!
- IME, this is null if you don't put anything that could obstruct your exiting effluent flow.
- With a continuous duty perastaltic pump setup pushing the water through the calcium reactor, it creates the perfect "pressurized" environment for the CO2 to do it's job.
- It's arguable that CO2 would be used more efficiently should you "pull" it through the calcium reactor, but I'd imagine that's plausible (not in a way that is overly costly, or even noticeable though... again... this is IME).
- The exiting effluent line will exhaust any over-pressurized situations that might occur... well... in theory
- This is all dependent on the type of calcium reactor you buy, and if it was engineered correctly (this is why I'm careful with my statements here... you have to know what your looking at with the calcium reactors... or buy from a reputable company)
- I also recommend that wherever you drip "any" effluent, place it in clear site.
- I use a Neptune magnet that hold probes/lines right in the front of my sump. Clearly visible to watch for build up and easily check for clogs when I'm maintaining the tank.
Please remember that calcium reactors are not actually used for calcium. While you can get some level of calcium from it, it's really to keep your alkalinity in check. It also doses some trace elements and will add phosphate. Not a huge deal if you keep up with your water changes, or have a great way to export excessive nutrients. Most of use macro to aid in this, as well as water changes (separately, or some hybrid mix of both). I use a turf scrubber (which introduces more complexities, but that's a different story). If you are looking to increase your calcium alongside pH and other awesome "cheap" bennies, a kalk reactor should be researched (again... a whole other topic).
Finally, I do agree with 2 part to start out with for most. Heck... I did!
HTH and definitely open to more discussion on this!
By the way... I really hope you're all well out there! I know I've been a bit of a hermit these days, but it's not by design!
/Leo
IMO controlling a reactor by manipulation of pH is the easiest way. Once you start changing the flow rate especially if you drop it too low and you’re unfiltered…you will start having issues down the road. Those little dissolved pieces are a perfect way to clog your output. You can also clog your feed line if you’re not careful, but this is much less likely if you put the line in a safe place. Don’t reef naked if you’re experiencing a lot of clogging issues. Filter it.
OP
OP
mitchell77546
Supporting Member
I'm going to dose 2 part for now and just keep the Rx until I'm ready for it. Really appreciate everyone's input here. All of your experiences are valuable information. I have one question about the peristaltic pump though. Doesn't a peristaltic pump have the ability to create a higher head pressure wouldn't it be better to use and Mj or something to feed it to prevent the overpressure situation? I'm sure you could put some type of relief valve in as well...
That’s actually what a lot of folks do. And there isn’t anything wrong with it. The only problem that occurs is you’ll have to put a valve (of some nature) on the tube that exits the reactor so that you can drip the right amount into the system. Again… no big deal if you maintain the valve.
A continuous duty peristaltic pump makes it super easy to dial in the drip rate of that effluent. Not 100% needed, but sure does make things nice! You’ll still need to check the tubing from time to time for any clogging that might occur. Calcium reactors don’t clog as fast as kalk reactors can though.
I’ve run calcium reactors for years without the Kamoer (or similar). Works fine… just gotta dial it in.
Again… that pressure build up thing… not really a concern…
