Looking to clean my sump in the next few days, previously I've done a siphon method to clean it, but it's always super difficult since it's so low to the ground already. What does everyone else use?
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Cleaning the Sump... what's your technique? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tenny
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phhoth
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A cheap small pump
OP
OP
I've tried this before with a mj1200 and it just getting clogged. Is there a better pump to use?
phhoth
Guest
Put some kind of screen in front of it
OP
OP
But that's the point... to get the big items out. My Nyos Torque dumped out a bunch of the filter media (don't recommend this media reactor at all, worst aquarium purchase I have ever made) and I want to get that stuff out.
I've heard of people using wet/dry vac's but never tried it.
It really depends on what you're trying to accomplish, to be honest.
For simple draining for a normal water change, yes... just a pump with a hose attached to it, to get the chambers as low as the pump will allow. I do this. I like to do water changes from the sump as much as possible because I can hit my 10% mark pretty easily down there (but, not necessary to drain from sump for a normal water change).
If you're actually looking to give it a good cleaning (which I do quarterly), here's what I do. Maybe you can pick and pull what you'd like to do from this list...?
Making up some saltwater should be a gimme, but I let mine mix for 24 hours before using.
1. Turn off heaters, reactors, skimmer, ATO, etc... pretty much everything that goes into the sump, or feeds the sump.
2. Turn off return, and let the sump fill up. Now's a good time to put your probes (mainly pH and ORP, but I just throw them all in there) in a cup of tank water, or something... I don't know if this is necessary or not, but I do it because "they" say that probes should remain wet.
3. Use an acrylic safe scrubbing pad to clean off sump walls. I use my acrylic pad that comes with my magnet cleaner. I actually attach it to one side of my magnet cleaner and use it to provide me with a better grip on the pad for scrubbing. (I recommend using gloves if you can. Nothing like a friendly bristle worm in your chaeto ball giving you a nice memento when you least expect it).
4. Put a piece of painters tape to mark your waterline. You could use a Sharpie or something if you don't mind a mark on your sump. I like painters tape because it's easy to remove.
5. Drain sump. I just bought a Sicce Zero Utility pump a few days ago, and can't wait to use it! I think this will be the best type of pump to get the water level in the sump as low as a pump can get it.
6. After pumping out as much as the pump can, use a shop vac to clean out all the detritus on the bottom of the sump. Obviously, this helps get the last of the water out of there too.
7. Wipe walls down with a scratch resistant cloth. I've used microfiber cloths in the past, but here recently... just paper towels work great. (You still got that glove handy, right?)
8. Fill sump to line (from step 4).
9. Turn everything back on from steps 1 and 2.
10. 1 hour later, check salinity (unless you have a conductivity probe on your controller).
I know it looks like a lot, but the practice only takes about half an hour, if that. First initial cleaning make take a little longer, depending on how much you've cleaned your sump's inside.
Also, this would be a good time to wipe everything down that has salt creep on it. Dust too! Clean it all up to avoid fires and make it look more inviting (for your next sump cleaning day).
Good luck!
For simple draining for a normal water change, yes... just a pump with a hose attached to it, to get the chambers as low as the pump will allow. I do this. I like to do water changes from the sump as much as possible because I can hit my 10% mark pretty easily down there (but, not necessary to drain from sump for a normal water change).
If you're actually looking to give it a good cleaning (which I do quarterly), here's what I do. Maybe you can pick and pull what you'd like to do from this list...?
Making up some saltwater should be a gimme, but I let mine mix for 24 hours before using.
1. Turn off heaters, reactors, skimmer, ATO, etc... pretty much everything that goes into the sump, or feeds the sump.
2. Turn off return, and let the sump fill up. Now's a good time to put your probes (mainly pH and ORP, but I just throw them all in there) in a cup of tank water, or something... I don't know if this is necessary or not, but I do it because "they" say that probes should remain wet.
3. Use an acrylic safe scrubbing pad to clean off sump walls. I use my acrylic pad that comes with my magnet cleaner. I actually attach it to one side of my magnet cleaner and use it to provide me with a better grip on the pad for scrubbing. (I recommend using gloves if you can. Nothing like a friendly bristle worm in your chaeto ball giving you a nice memento when you least expect it).
4. Put a piece of painters tape to mark your waterline. You could use a Sharpie or something if you don't mind a mark on your sump. I like painters tape because it's easy to remove.
5. Drain sump. I just bought a Sicce Zero Utility pump a few days ago, and can't wait to use it! I think this will be the best type of pump to get the water level in the sump as low as a pump can get it.
6. After pumping out as much as the pump can, use a shop vac to clean out all the detritus on the bottom of the sump. Obviously, this helps get the last of the water out of there too.
7. Wipe walls down with a scratch resistant cloth. I've used microfiber cloths in the past, but here recently... just paper towels work great. (You still got that glove handy, right?)
8. Fill sump to line (from step 4).
9. Turn everything back on from steps 1 and 2.
10. 1 hour later, check salinity (unless you have a conductivity probe on your controller).
I know it looks like a lot, but the practice only takes about half an hour, if that. First initial cleaning make take a little longer, depending on how much you've cleaned your sump's inside.
Also, this would be a good time to wipe everything down that has salt creep on it. Dust too! Clean it all up to avoid fires and make it look more inviting (for your next sump cleaning day).
Good luck!
OP
OP
Yeah, I'm more interested in the full cleaning like that. Not often, but from time to time to keep it running in tip top shape. Was hoping there was a better "pump" that was more like a vac that'd work.
Unfortunately, there aren’t any pumps that can do what a cheap wet/dry shop vac can do. Even with the pump I have, there will still be a little water left behind.
Here’s the vac I use:
5-Gallon 6-HP Portable Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-5-Gallon-6-HP-Portable-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum/1000351423
They have a smaller one that’s like $40 that would work fine too.
It is a great question though. It’s very important to clean the sump completely, once in awhile.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here’s the vac I use:
5-Gallon 6-HP Portable Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-5-Gallon-6-HP-Portable-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum/1000351423
They have a smaller one that’s like $40 that would work fine too.
It is a great question though. It’s very important to clean the sump completely, once in awhile.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s pretty cool!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
Clogs too easily though. Esp when cleaning out stuff.
Not sure why they don't make one that creates a venturi...
I mix 40g of saltwater in a trash can, shut off the pumps. let the sump fill then use a pump to dump most of the water and a shop vac to clean detritus from the sump. Then refill w/fresh saltwater and restart the pumps.
Cody
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What’s this “cleaning the sump” phrase you keep using? Is it Latin?
I think one of the best techniques is to drain the sump completely with a pump that sucks from the bottom. Then get a shop vac on the crud in the bottom.
This thread is making me thankful for my aio...
OP
OP
I am starting to think this is really the only way to do it right. The current shop vac I use for everything... and I really don't want to use it for something like this. Guess I'll pick up another small one when they go on sale.
OP
OP
I still clean the chambers of my AIO, but since it's elevated it's easy.
Yeah, I kept one specifically for Reefing. I used the Eheim compact pumps without their rubber feet to get the water very low.
This is the shop vac I used. Although I kinda wished it was a little bigger at times, but the bigger it is...the heavier and the more water you have to dump when it’s full. So...I guess small is better sometimes.
slojim
Supporting Member
I have a shop vac for general purpose and used it - it worked well, but it isn't aquarium specific so I adapted some clean tubing, and then I had to clean it out before and after. I'd rather keep a specific one, but then it is one more fish tank item to store. I bought the VCA attachment but haven't used it yet - I don't have a mj pump and incorrectly assumed I could pick one up. I'm thinking about getting a magdrive 2 and screwing on an adapter.
This last weekend, I ran a small utility pump with some tubing to a sock, shut off the return, and stirred up the sump with a second powerhead and a long spoon. Worked ok. Not as good as the shop vac and was probably more work, but I was also cleaning my return pump and skimmer.
This last weekend, I ran a small utility pump with some tubing to a sock, shut off the return, and stirred up the sump with a second powerhead and a long spoon. Worked ok. Not as good as the shop vac and was probably more work, but I was also cleaning my return pump and skimmer.
