Common Drip Line Acclimation Error (1 Viewer)

[Chewy]

I have read and heard many of you state - I drip line acclimated for an hour. Well, your doing it wrong. You no doubt pH acclimated the item but your temp acclimation passed long ago.

Once your acclimation container has nearly equaled the temp & pH of the holding tank, your done. This should be reached within 15 minutes, any longer and your likely allowing the room temp to stabilize temp over the tank.

Cheers

 

[Mark L.]

If temps are your concern floating the bag would suffice. Drip acclimation is more for equalizing salinity levels between the bag water and tank. Typically stores run low salinity levels to save on salt. We however run higher around 1.025/6 for our reef tanks. I test store water from the bag and regularly see 1.021-1.023.

 

[Reefahholic]

I drip and when the water doubles, I add a small heater. Then I go longer because some fish I get seem to die if I don't acclimate for over an hour.

 

[Chewy]

I didnt intend to post so quickly above.

If temps are your concern floating the bag would suffice. Drip acclimation is more for equalizing salinity levels between the bag water and tank. Typically stores run low salinity levels to save on salt. We however run higher around 1.025/6 for our reef tanks. I test store water from the bag and regularly see 1.021-1.023.

True. Multiple factors are relevant when attempting to get the new item acclimated not just pH and temp.

The source (shop) water is never the way we run our home reef.

With this is mind I place my new purchase in a container that holds half the amount of water the store bagged. Within 15 min the acclimation container has doubled, nearly tripled in water volume from the drip line. It is around this point I have found equilibrium of both acclimation container and tank water is within range and transfer can take place.

If the item (fish) shows signs of stress from the new water - rate of drip or time in acclimation will need to be adjusted.

 

[Chewy]

I drip and when the water doubles, I add a small heater. Then I go longer because some fish I get seem to die if I don't acclimate for over an hour.

Strange. I doubt it is temp that has such a large range or difference on your water vs the LFS. Have you noticed this from a certain store or certain species? Not looking for you to dime out a LFS, just wonder if the issue might be more along the lines of ammonia not temp?

 

[Reefahholic]

I didnt intend to post so quickly above.



True. Multiple factors are relevant when attempting to get the new item acclimated not just pH and temp.

The source (shop) water is never the way we run our home reef.

With this is mind I place my new purchase in a container that holds half the amount of water the store bagged. Within 15 min the acclimation container has doubled, nearly tripled in water volume from the drip line. It is around this point I have found equilibrium of both acclimation container and tank water is within range and transfer can take place.

If the item (fish) shows signs of stress from the new water - rate of drip or time in acclimation will need to be adjusted.

That's a fast drip rate if your water doubles or triples in 15 minutes.

 

[Reefahholic]

I use the Reef Gently Acclimate too..using that, there is no need to worry about temp because it's continously exchanging water from your other tank keeping the temp constant.

Sensitive fish require more than 15 minutes. Ultra sensitive fish require over 2 hours. They even say that hardy fish should be acclimated about 45-50 minutes.

Drip Method This method is considered more advanced. It is geared toward sensitive inhabitants such as corals, shrimp, sea stars, and wrasses. You will need airline tubing and must be willing to monitor the entire process. Gather a clean, 3 or 5-gallon bucket designated for aquarium use only. If acclimating both fish and invertebrates, use a separate bucket for each. Start with Steps 1-3 of the floating method to acclimate water temperature. [*]Carefully empty the contents of the bags (including the water) into the buckets (Fig. G), making sure not to expose sensitive invertebrates to the air. Depending on the amount of water in each bag, this may require tilting the bucket at a 45 degree angle to make sure the animals are fully submerged (Fig. H). You may need a prop or wedge to help hold the bucket in this position until there is enough liquid in the bucket to put it back to a level position. [*]Using airline tubing, set up and run a siphon drip line from the main aquarium to each bucket. You’ll need separate airline tubing for each bucket used. Tie several loose knots in the airline tubing, or use a plastic or other non-metal airline control valve, (Fig. I), to regulate flow from the aquarium. It is also a good idea to secure the airline tubing in place with an airline holder. The Doctors Foster and Smith Acclimation Kit is a convenient alternative that simplifies the drip acclimation process. [*]Begin a siphon by sucking on the end of the airline tubing you'll be placing into each of the buckets. When water begins flowing through the tubing, adjust the drip (by tightening one of the knots or adjusting the control valve) to a rate of about 2-4 drips per second (Fig. J). [*]When the water volume in the bucket doubles, discard half and begin the drip again until the volume doubles once more – about one hour. [*]At this point, the specimens can be transferred to the aquarium. Sponges, clams, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Gently scoop them out of the drip bucket with the specimen bag, making sure they’re fully covered in water. Submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and gently remove the specimen from the bag. Next, seal off the bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted water will escape into the aquarium; this is O.K. Also, to avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of live coral when handling. NOTE: Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to changes in specific gravity. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result. Test specific gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer.

Important Facts

• Be patient - never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.

 

[Reefahholic]

[h=3]Float Method[/h][h=3]This method is most useful for fish and invertebrates.[/h]

• Step 1: Switch off the quarantine tank or aquarium lighting and dim the lights in room.
• Step 2: Open the box and inspect the bags to ensure that all animals have arrived in good health and that all the bags have arrived intact.
• Step 3: Float the bags in aquarium for 20-25 minutes to allow the temperature to equilibrate. DO NOT open bag at this time.
• Step 4: Open the bags and roll down the edges 1-2 inches to make the bag stable, and to keep it afloat in the tank. You may also use a clip or a clothespin to anchor the bag firmly against the edge of the aquarium.
• Step 5: Add a quarter cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag. Make sure to keep water from the bag from spilling over into the aquarium. If you need to remove some of the water from the bag to aid in keeping the bag afloat you may do so. Do not dump the water from the bag into the tank; dump it into a bucket or down the drain.
• Step 6: Repeat Step 5 every 3-7 minutes until the bag is full of water. This should take about 30-45 minutes.
• Step 7: Discard half of the water and continue to repeat step 5 until the bag is full once again. This should take another 30-45 minutes.
• Step 8: Compare the salinity of the water in the bag to the water in the tank. If they are the same proceed to step 9. If they are different repeat step 5 until the salt levels are the same.
• Step 9: Remove the animal from bag and place them into the aquarium or quarantine tank (preferable). For hardy fish and motile invertebrates, use a soft net to do so. For tangs, or other sensitive animals, capture them with a cup, pouring as little of the bag's water into your tank as possible. For sessile invertebrates, such as corals or anemones, you may remove them by hand. Be sure to use clean, sterile, and powder-free gloves.
• Step 10: Discard the remaining water

The following three parameters play such a significant role in the well-being of new livestock that we'll go over them, one-by-one, to explain why each is important and how it impacts the health of your animal(s).

• 1
  [h=3]Temperature[/h]We ship livestock inside insulated boxes with heating or cooling packs to protect the animals inside against extreme temperature shifts. However, the temperature inside the package or bag your livestock arrives will undoubtedly be different than the current temperature inside your aquarium. Properly acclimating livestock helps to equalize the different water temperatures and can significantly reduce the stress on your new animal(s).
  
• 2
  [h=3]Salinity[/h]It is also likely the water inside the bag/package your new livestock arrives in will have a different salinity than the water inside your aquarium. Beware: sudden changes in salinity can shock fish and inverts and may leave them more susceptible to infection and/or disease. We recommend a salinity of 1.019-1.023 for fish-only (FO) systems and a slightly higher salinity—1.024-1.026—for reef aquariums.
  
• 3
  [h=3]pH and Ammonia[/h]The natural metabolic processes of fish and corals release toxic ammonia and carbon dioxide during shipping, lowering the pH of the water. At lower ranges, harmful ammonia is transformed into an inter-form ammonium. If the pH were suddenly raised, the ammonium would release ammonia harmful to animals. Proper acclimation will raise the pH slowly, safely releasing and removing ammonia. Keep in mind too that while this occurs more frequently during shipment of livestock, it also occurs while transporting new animals home from your local fish store, albeit not as extreme.

 

[emixa]

so i will drip in a container where once it triples the amount, i will draw enough water to the level being a safe height to meet their highest fin, then allow the water to continue dripping until it reaches double the amount. the drip is not fast by any means or slow. probably takes it about an hour to hour 15 minutes. i will add the fish and then feed the tank so that the others will not mess with the newbie. my food has alot of vitamins and garlic so if the new fish does decide to eat....good for him.

 

[Reefahholic]

so i will drip in a container where once it triples the amount, i will draw enough water to the level being a safe height to meet their highest fin, then allow the water to continue dripping until it reaches double the amount. the drip is not fast by any means or slow. probably takes it about an hour to hour 15 minutes. i will add the fish and then feed the tank so that the others will not mess with the newbie. my food has alot of vitamins and garlic so if the new fish does decide to eat....good for him.

lol...that is funny..

I just set a slow drip and watch tv for an hour or so.

The acclimate is pretty cool, but I don't use it much anymore. I usually just drip in a bucket.

 

[frankc]

I quarantine almost everything I get, so I adjust the salinity of the QT to match the bag water, then use a crude version of the float method above. For fish I usually leave the QT at the lower salinity for the first week, then start dripping more saturated saltwater every few days until it reaches 1.025.

 

[daktari]

IMHO I believe that I have killed a few fish by not drip acclimating long enough. Moving a fish from lower salinity from the LFS to a 35PPT typical in a reef tank can really stress a sensitive fish. I drip acclimate all fish until the salinity reads within 1 ppt of the DT. The temperature should not be an issue if your home is typical room temperature 72 F within a few degrees of the DT. The influx of DT water into the acclimation container will equalize temperature. I don't claim to be an expert but I am noticing very few casualties compared to using an arbitrary time factor rather than an actual measurement.

 

[tektite]

I put the bucket floating in the sump. That way I can drip acclimate as long as I need to with no worries on temp change at all, the bucket stays constant at tank temp.

 

[Carse]

I have been told that cardinals are very sensitive to temp change.

 

[Reefahholic]

IMHO I believe that I have killed a few fish by not drip acclimating long enough. Moving a fish from lower salinity from the LFS to a 35PPT typical in a reef tank can really stress a sensitive fish. I drip acclimate all fish until the salinity reads within 1 ppt of the DT. The temperature should not be an issue if your home is typical room temperature 72 F within a few degrees of the DT. The influx of DT water into the acclimation container will equalize temperature. I don't claim to be an expert but I am noticing very few casualties compared to using an arbitrary time factor rather than an actual measurement.

I have too...some fish are really sensitive. Once they get stressed and breathing heavy, you know you messed up.

I'm not sure if mine died due to salinity shock, temp, different water quality, etc...