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Cycling dry rock (1 Viewer)

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I'm currently in the process of building my 125g and was wondering if I should buy a tote and cycle the rock before I get everything done. I still need some equipment and not completely done with the stand, and I'm not exactly sure how long it'll take before my setup is ready. Is there any disadvantages I'm not aware of when it comes to cycling rock in a tote in my garage? I was going to get a 75g Rubbermaid stock tank and stuff it with some rock, a pump, and some saltwater and let it run until I'm ready. Thanks for any insight, never cycled rock not in an aquarium before.
 

webster1234

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I'd just wait if it were me. Brightwell makes a decent cycling kit that you can use once you get your tank set up. It takes a few weeks to get everything cycled but I'd rather do it in the tank.

It will be a lot easier to aquascape with dry rock and no water than it will be to aquascape with wet rock and water, especially with as many times as you will take the rock in and out, trying to figure out where to put it.
 

RickD

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I cycled my dry rock at least a couple of months in a Brute and test like you would in a glass tank. I used the ammonia drip method. When i was finally ready then i put it in. and did another cycle. It took a week. I went from zero to 6 fish a pistol shrimp and i had no increase in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrate.

Also it would be easier if you Aquacape in a cardboard cut out before you cycle, but not required.

Whatever you choose, don’t rush it.


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RR-MAN

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I would choose the rocks in tank cycling option. I love designing rock scape so I take my time to create the rock structures and then add water/salt/bacteria.
 

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If you're starting with dry rock, yes do it in a separate container. Dry rock in my experience with fill the water with po4. It will help with the ugly phase. I wouldn't worry about cycling perse but definitely to cure the rocks. After about 3 months the po4 was finally readable, and I did complete water changes in the container q2weeks. Use cheap salt to save money.
 
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I’d absolutely do it ASAP. The quicker you let the rock cycle and mature the better the tank will do when you set it up on day 1.

Buy a vat or anything to put the rocks in. Create very good flow and normal reef temperature. No light at all. Keep it blacked out.

For example, if I set up a new tank in the future. As soon as the thought enters my mind I’ll buy the rock that night. Then get it maturing in a vat with no light. That way six months later after I finish the build- it will be on point. This goes beyond a cycle. Waiting on a reef to mature takes a very long time (years). So...the sooner the better.

This was one of the reasons why Fish of Hex’s current tank did so well. He cycled the rock several months before he actually started the tank.
 
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Remind me, what does the Lanthanum Chloride do? Removes bound phosphates?

Yes, depending on the rock, they can leech phosphate into the water column for months. I had some leech for 6 months. It basically makes the tank grow funky algae or other undesirable things. So if cooking the rock “outside” the tank, it’s a good idea to treat it so you know it’s not gonna leech later on. You can’t dose high concentrations of Lanthanum “inside” the tank with fish and corals, because It will strip the nutrients and deplete oxygen.
 

mittens

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Make sure if you bleach your rock allow it to dry completely prior to cycling. I got impatient and killed all my bacteria before. Then I got to start all over [emoji24]


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Make sure if you bleach your rock allow it to dry completely prior to cycling. I got impatient and killed all my bacteria before. Then I got to start all over [emoji24]


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You can also test the rock (water) for Chlorine. I think BRS may sell those tests. If not, you can find them anywhere.
 

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I rebuilt my tank earlier this year and had a little of my old rock and a lot of new and used rock from others. I had the rocks soaking in bleach about 24 hours to kill off any bad things and then rinsed and refilled the tubs and let sit a couple days. Then rinsed again and refilled the water all while checking for any smell of bleach. Typically bleach will burn off after 24 hours. However, I still added a tap water conditioner to kill any remnant of bleach and let it soak another week. Then I let them sit in my garage for another month covered in a dark tub. While the rocks were not cycled, they were not dry when they went into the tank. I guess you could call them conditioned but since they were in fresh water they were not cycled. Still think this can help speed up the maturity process.
 
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I rebuilt my tank earlier this year and had a little of my old rock and a lot of new and used rock from others. I had the rocks soaking in bleach about 24 hours to kill off any bad things and then rinsed and refilled the tubs and let sit a couple days. Then rinsed again and refilled the water all while checking for any smell of bleach. Typically bleach will burn off after 24 hours. However, I still added a tap water conditioner to kill any remnant of bleach and let it soak another week. Then I let them sit in my garage for another month covered in a dark tub. While the rocks were not cycled, they were not dry when they went into the tank. I guess you could call them conditioned but since they were in fresh water they were not cycled. Still think this can help speed up the maturity process.

I agree 100%. Bleach typically doesn’t linger very long if you rinse the rocks and let them dry out. I’d do a couple soaks in RO with flow and then a few good rinses. Then let them completely dry in the sun. After that, they should be good to go.

Back to the other topic. If you put some new dry rock directly into a tank. Then put some dry rock that had been previously sitting for 6 months to 1 year in a Vat with no light and strong flow. Which do you think will do 3x better?
 
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