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Dry rock back to Live Rock (1 Viewer)

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GAW

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Hello Everyone,

After a long long hiatus I am think about digging my 110g out of the garage and get the tank going again. This time around will
Be FOWLR I believe, but all of my rocks have dried up and have been sitting in buckets. Is there any they can be live rock again or do I need to buy more live rock?

I have PC/MH combo but these new LED's look pretty sweet but not sure if needed for only FOWLR.

Thanks!
 

Clownfish Chris

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There are two parts to this. Ill start with the lighting. That fixture will work fine for FOWLR however, they are expensive to power and replace bulbs. They also produce quite a bit of heat. My recommendation as far as lighting would be to get some entry level black box LEDs from amazon or ebay. They will support corals should you change your mind and are not expensive relative to other options. They will pay for themselves quickly.

As for your rock yes you can re use it. Google search "curing live rock." Or of you are impatient like me, just brush it as clean as you can with a wire brush and let it cycle with your tank.
 
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Hello Everyone,

After a long long hiatus I am think about digging my 110g out of the garage and get the tank going again. This time around will
Be FOWLR I believe, but all of my rocks have dried up and have been sitting in buckets. Is there any they can be live rock again or do I need to buy more live rock?

I have PC/MH combo but these new LED's look pretty sweet but not sure if needed for only FOWLR.

Thanks!

You can buy live bacteria or use a fresh raw shrimp to cycle


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GAW

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There are two parts to this. Ill start with the lighting. That fixture will work fine for FOWLR however, they are expensive to power and replace bulbs. They also produce quite a bit of heat. My recommendation as far as lighting would be to get some entry level black box LEDs from amazon or ebay. They will support corals should you change your mind and are not expensive relative to other options. They will pay for themselves quickly.

As for your rock yes you can re use it. Google search "curing live rock." Or of you are impatient like me, just brush it as clean as you can with a wire brush and let it cycle with your tank.

Thanks Chris!

Is there a brand I should look for?

I will google that but yes I am very impatient so I might just brush it
 

Clownfish Chris

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Does this need to be done in a separate tank?
Nope.
1. Put in the rock.
2. Put in saltwater Made from RODI Water .For FOWLR I would use 1.021 Salinity.
3. Put in uncooked shrimp. I would cut it up into smaller pieces.
4. After a couple of days, put in bacteria.

Through out the entire time, test Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate daily charting your results. Once you have no Ammonia or Nitrite, and are showing Nitrate, do the largest water change possible. Then you will be ready for a CUC.
 

notmyname

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Hey GAW. Why did you take your tank down before? FOWLR tanks still run into algae issues, still require stable alkalinity.

Regarding rock, I suggest reading up on this topic. This hobby is all about doing research, making hypotheses about how things work, and seeing if your hypothesis holds true.

Personally, when I recycle my rock, I soak it in bleach water a day or two, then rinse and repeat with tap water a couple of times to pull out excessive nitrates or phosphates that have built up in the rock. Then I give it at least one final soak for at least a day in RODI water to pull out any impurities from the tap water.

THEN, I would introduce it to my tank or a bin filled with saltwater, with a pump for circulation and no light.


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notmyname

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That was a long reply, so breaking it up... part two cycling the tank. Add live sand, a piece of live rock, or a bacteria source like fritzyme. I feed the tank daily with mysis. How much depends on the size of the tank or cycling container. For 110 gallons I would throw in maybe a cube of mysis. It is small and breaks down easily. If using shrimp from the grocery store (just as good and cheaper too), I would throw it in the blender, shred it to the smallest size pieces possible, to help it break down faster. Feed the bacteria but don't overload the tank. I'm really only test for nitrate... if it is present, the cycle is complete.

Generally after about a week I will do a huge water change, usually 59% or more if I am manage it, to bring down the nitrates.

I add fish one at a time, most docile types first, more aggressive types later. Each time a creature is added, the biological filter needs time to adjust to the increase in waste produced.

They things to consider... nitrate removal plan, and how will you maintain alkalinity? FOWL tanks still get algae issues. Reverse lighting with chaeto in the dump will help remove nitrates. Stable alkalinity provides some amount protection against nuisance algae growth and allows coralline algae a chance to grow, which is prettier than hair algae and if healthy will keep nuisance algae at bay...


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GAW

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Hey GAW. Why did you take your tank down before? FOWLR tanks still run into algae issues, still require stable alkalinity.

Regarding rock, I suggest reading up on this topic. This hobby is all about doing research, making hypotheses about how things work, and seeing if your hypothesis holds true.

Personally, when I recycle my rock, I soak it in bleach water a day or two, then rinse and repeat with tap water a couple of times to pull out excessive nitrates or phosphates that have built up in the rock. Then I give it at least one final soak for at least a day in RODI water to pull out any impurities from the tap water.

THEN, I would introduce it to my tank or a bin filled with saltwater, with a pump for circulation and no light.


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That was a long reply, so breaking it up... part two cycling the tank. Add live sand, a piece of live rock, or a bacteria source like fritzyme. I feed the tank daily with mysis. How much depends on the size of the tank or cycling container. For 110 gallons I would throw in maybe a cube of mysis. It is small and breaks down easily. If using shrimp from the grocery store (just as good and cheaper too), I would throw it in the blender, shred it to the smallest size pieces possible, to help it break down faster. Feed the bacteria but don't overload the tank. I'm really only test for nitrate... if it is present, the cycle is complete.

Generally after about a week I will do a huge water change, usually 59% or more if I am manage it, to bring down the nitrates.

I add fish one at a time, most docile types first, more aggressive types later. Each time a creature is added, the biological filter needs time to adjust to the increase in waste produced.

They things to consider... nitrate removal plan, and how will you maintain alkalinity? FOWL tanks still get algae issues. Reverse lighting with chaeto in the dump will help remove nitrates. Stable alkalinity provides some amount protection against nuisance algae growth and allows coralline algae a chance to grow, which is prettier than hair algae and if healthy will keep nuisance algae at bay...


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Hello and thanks for the great replies and information, much much appreciated.

I bought this rock when it was live and some sand from members here years ago so the cycling phase was pretty short so this part I really didn't read up on back then. I had a protein skimmer disaster overnight and lost all livestock as I had no reserve RODI water, broke my heart and neves. Took the tank down (2011) and moved in 2012 and I just couldn't see myself selling tank and the parts that I do have for it, now I'm glad I did. Technology has came along way and now the 60 inch long tank is going to be expensive to light either way

For Nitrates I plan on a skimmer, probably Octopus brand. Alkalinity that I am not sure of, I remember it needing small dosing before.

Grant
 

notmyname

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Sorry for your experiemce... and your loss. We have all been through similar situations.

A skimmer will pull protein out of the water before they can degrade to produce nitrates. However, it is not a complete solution and will not pull out nitrates or phosphates. Vodka dosing is often used with FOWLR tanks for nitrate and phosphate control; but again, do ample research as I hear this method out competes your nitrosomos (sp?) bacteria.

:)

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