You can do with it what you want. Glad to help. I'm a firm believer that picture is worth a thousand words....
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FredG's 180 Information Gathering and Build Thread (1 Viewer)
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fredG
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ok. i got all of the glass cut but unfortunately, one of my pieces fory sump is cut a fraction too long so I can't get it into the tank to silicone it. its 1/4" glass. is there anything i could do or a shop can do without scraping it? i went to jacks glass and i live on beechnut by hwy 6 is someone knows of a glass shop close by where i can get it cut tomorrow or altered. that would be great.
flexrac
Guest
any glass shop can do it. just call around. might charge you like $5
fredG
Guest
Well as I'm reaching the end of the set-up phase of my build I figured it was time to post pictures. Bare with me though, since most of the projects were done without help, I do not have a set-by-step photo for everything, plus I suck at taking pictures. lol
First here's a picture of my 45 corner pentagon that I had at my apartment. I had more powerheads but I took them out for the picture to try and make the tank look "cleaner"
Here's the stand I picked up from Keith, it's as if this area and the stand were built for each other. Well at least how I see it.
Next came the dry fitting of the overflow parts. With my inexperience with plumbing and some advice I figured the union would be best closest to the overflow. I put the union on the top side of the ball valve just encase it ever has to be replaced.
Next came the cap for the overflow pipes. I used two vise grips to make sure to screw the caps on tight. I could never get the caps to screw all the way down so I don't know if it's me or just how they're made.
Here I went around about 4-5 times and I've never had problems this way so it's how I do it. Not sure if it's the correct way or not.
This is about as far down as I could go with just my hands.
Then I used the vice grips to tighten it just a little bit more.
Then I went back and dry fitted with the end caps to know how far it would stick above the tank. Not that it matters since I have a canopy.
Then before I glued them together I took my tape measure and measured from the beginning of the trim to just past the ball valve which was my further point from the tank. By doing this I know that I need the stand a MAX of 9" from the wall. Yes this maybe to much room but it gives me room to get back there and work if I have to.
Next was to glue everything up. Since the main siphon is the only one that really needs a valve it's the only one that I put a union on. Yes it's messy buy I was weary of trying to clean it up afterward. I did not want to mess up the bond and I help each piece the full 30 seconds.
Please don't make the mistakes that I did and make sure that all the pieces you are buying are the exact same. I got most of my plumbing from home depot and people just mix things up and they're also made by different companies. If you're a newbie to a hardware store you might not know this. I didn't smh.
Now here are all of my plumbing mistakes. The one on the left I cemented the union on the wrong end of the sanitary tee. It should be on the down side, I tried to pull it off within 3 seconds of knowing that I screwed up but nope, it was already cemented into place. Next I did everything right BUT I forgot to put the side of the union that sits inside of the coupler/coupling. Next I plugged the bulkheads but guess what! The nut could not fit over the end cap, turns out home depot end caps are a little bit thicker then ace. So I bought some from ace but then realized I wouldn't be able to drill through my stand because of the way it was built. I would say I spent almost 100 bucks on my mistakes, not including gas. Make sure to think things over and not do them at 4 in the morning.
Next I moved onto painting the back glass, I chose black and I forget which paint I chose but it's an enamel type paint. I started by preparing the tank to be painted. I taped off the holes and also the sides, top, and bottom.
I got a little bit on the bottom but it's going to be at the back of the stand so who cares? I don't!
Plus I didn't realize I bought the wrong width tape until I got home and I really did not want to head back to home depot. As you may have noticed now, you will make A LOT of trips to the hardware store.
As you could see in one of the pictures above, the tank came with holes drilled in the bottom. So I needed a way to plug them since I couldn't use my bulkhead plugs. So my solution after asking felix was to go and get some glass and silicone them into place. Just encase someone is new or just because, I used RTV 108 from Grainger. I was informed that I could go with 1/4" glass but I went ahead and went with 3/8" because it was only 6 bucks and if I went with 1/2" the glass would need to be ordered. This is just me but if you do this, do not go easy on the silicone, glob it on there, the more the merrier. Then I ran a thick bead around the outside edge of the glass just to make sure it was sealed. I test leaked it for a few days after curing and it was fine.
Left Side
Right Side
First here's a picture of my 45 corner pentagon that I had at my apartment. I had more powerheads but I took them out for the picture to try and make the tank look "cleaner"
Here's the stand I picked up from Keith, it's as if this area and the stand were built for each other. Well at least how I see it.
Next came the dry fitting of the overflow parts. With my inexperience with plumbing and some advice I figured the union would be best closest to the overflow. I put the union on the top side of the ball valve just encase it ever has to be replaced.
Next came the cap for the overflow pipes. I used two vise grips to make sure to screw the caps on tight. I could never get the caps to screw all the way down so I don't know if it's me or just how they're made.
Here I went around about 4-5 times and I've never had problems this way so it's how I do it. Not sure if it's the correct way or not.
This is about as far down as I could go with just my hands.
Then I used the vice grips to tighten it just a little bit more.
Then I went back and dry fitted with the end caps to know how far it would stick above the tank. Not that it matters since I have a canopy.
Then before I glued them together I took my tape measure and measured from the beginning of the trim to just past the ball valve which was my further point from the tank. By doing this I know that I need the stand a MAX of 9" from the wall. Yes this maybe to much room but it gives me room to get back there and work if I have to.
Next was to glue everything up. Since the main siphon is the only one that really needs a valve it's the only one that I put a union on. Yes it's messy buy I was weary of trying to clean it up afterward. I did not want to mess up the bond and I help each piece the full 30 seconds.
Please don't make the mistakes that I did and make sure that all the pieces you are buying are the exact same. I got most of my plumbing from home depot and people just mix things up and they're also made by different companies. If you're a newbie to a hardware store you might not know this. I didn't smh.
Now here are all of my plumbing mistakes. The one on the left I cemented the union on the wrong end of the sanitary tee. It should be on the down side, I tried to pull it off within 3 seconds of knowing that I screwed up but nope, it was already cemented into place. Next I did everything right BUT I forgot to put the side of the union that sits inside of the coupler/coupling. Next I plugged the bulkheads but guess what! The nut could not fit over the end cap, turns out home depot end caps are a little bit thicker then ace. So I bought some from ace but then realized I wouldn't be able to drill through my stand because of the way it was built. I would say I spent almost 100 bucks on my mistakes, not including gas. Make sure to think things over and not do them at 4 in the morning.
Next I moved onto painting the back glass, I chose black and I forget which paint I chose but it's an enamel type paint. I started by preparing the tank to be painted. I taped off the holes and also the sides, top, and bottom.
I got a little bit on the bottom but it's going to be at the back of the stand so who cares? I don't!
Plus I didn't realize I bought the wrong width tape until I got home and I really did not want to head back to home depot. As you may have noticed now, you will make A LOT of trips to the hardware store.
As you could see in one of the pictures above, the tank came with holes drilled in the bottom. So I needed a way to plug them since I couldn't use my bulkhead plugs. So my solution after asking felix was to go and get some glass and silicone them into place. Just encase someone is new or just because, I used RTV 108 from Grainger. I was informed that I could go with 1/4" glass but I went ahead and went with 3/8" because it was only 6 bucks and if I went with 1/2" the glass would need to be ordered. This is just me but if you do this, do not go easy on the silicone, glob it on there, the more the merrier. Then I ran a thick bead around the outside edge of the glass just to make sure it was sealed. I test leaked it for a few days after curing and it was fine.
Left Side
Right Side
fredG
Guest
For the overflow weir I took steveb dems and had the glass cut. I was told to make sure to tell the glass shop you need "industrial precision" cuts or else some of your pieces might come out a fraction too long or too short. After having my glass cut don't maybe an 8th of an inch? I went ahead and got started piecing together the overflow. I took what steveb and felix told me and placed the front glass in front of the bottom piece and placed the side pieces behind the front glass but on top of the bottom piece. It's best to have a extra pair of hands for this, you want to mirror what your finish product is going to be. That may not be the correct term but what I'm trying to say is that you need to first silicone your front piece on top of the bottom piece furthest away from your body and then silicone your side pieces into place. This way it doesn't stick to whatever surface you're working on. Once it dries and cures all you have to do is flip it 90 degrees and that's how it will sit in the tank.
Next I moved on to the sump. I don't have step-by-step pictures since I decided I was not going to do a fuge/Refugium on this build I basically started with the center baffle first. I used two PS3 game cases and put them under the baffle then I took a carpenters corner tool thingy to make sure it's was straight in the center and ends, then straight from the glass to the sides of the sump. I ran two thick beads and then used my finger to removed the excess. I let this sit overnight and then took out the cases from under the baffle. You definitely want to use something flexible but rigid if that makes sense. Once I removed the cases I moved on to the two end baffles. With these I just ran a thick bead on the bottom since there would be a little bit of a gap between the tank and baffle since the silicone inside of the tank keeps the baffle from sitting flush. Then I ran a bead on the open side of the baffle, what I mean by open is the side away from the middle baffle. You might be able to tell that the center baffle shifted on me, I was trying to see if the tape would hold it but nope it wouldn't. This does not have to be perfect since it's just there to force the water down and the air up.
Next was the skin for the stand. The only part that was already stained was the canopy. I first started off by sanding the unfinished pieces with 220 grit sand paper, just enough to smooth it and open the pores. Then I took a sponge brush and applied the stain, then took a towel and wiped off the excess.
My mothers phone takes way better pictures.
Here's the front stained.
One of the doors stained.
My mother helping apply the clear.
For some reason it doesn't look uniform in the pictures but it is. All that was left when I took this picture was to add the last door.
Next I moved on to the sump. I don't have step-by-step pictures since I decided I was not going to do a fuge/Refugium on this build I basically started with the center baffle first. I used two PS3 game cases and put them under the baffle then I took a carpenters corner tool thingy to make sure it's was straight in the center and ends, then straight from the glass to the sides of the sump. I ran two thick beads and then used my finger to removed the excess. I let this sit overnight and then took out the cases from under the baffle. You definitely want to use something flexible but rigid if that makes sense. Once I removed the cases I moved on to the two end baffles. With these I just ran a thick bead on the bottom since there would be a little bit of a gap between the tank and baffle since the silicone inside of the tank keeps the baffle from sitting flush. Then I ran a bead on the open side of the baffle, what I mean by open is the side away from the middle baffle. You might be able to tell that the center baffle shifted on me, I was trying to see if the tape would hold it but nope it wouldn't. This does not have to be perfect since it's just there to force the water down and the air up.
Next was the skin for the stand. The only part that was already stained was the canopy. I first started off by sanding the unfinished pieces with 220 grit sand paper, just enough to smooth it and open the pores. Then I took a sponge brush and applied the stain, then took a towel and wiped off the excess.
My mothers phone takes way better pictures.
Here's the front stained.
One of the doors stained.
My mother helping apply the clear.
For some reason it doesn't look uniform in the pictures but it is. All that was left when I took this picture was to add the last door.
fredG
Guest
Time to take more pictures which I will update later today. I found these at home depot, I guess they're kinda like gussets and are probably not needed but I said why not. They're plain corner braces, well "heavy duty" corner braces. They're supposed to be able to handle I think 1k pounds? Don't quote me on that but I think they would at least help some.
mwilliams62
Guest
You have done a lot of work.... VERY WELL DONE.... And I have been kicking myself not waiting and getting the 180 instead of the 125 that I had gotten.
LITTLEGUY
Guest
Looks like it is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
fredG
Guest
Thanks for the kind words. I've run into a problem though, I've been trying to make water but every time I do, my faucet adapter leaks. Since the unit is under my kitchen sink, I was wondering if there's some way I can hook up something down below the sink. I have braided tubing under there so I can't use the saddle adapter. Is there something else I can use?
emixa
Guest
i would use a barb fitting with a clamp around the od of the hose over the barb. then you can always put together the screw on fittings.
fredG
Guest
Do you have a picture?
emixa
Guest
picture of what. fred, can you show a picture of your set-up for water fill.
fredG
Guest
I'm just going to go tomorrow and get another faucet adapter. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to have to find a way to hook my ro/di unit up.
Question though, the tank isn't completely leveled, from what I can tell the stand is perfectly leveled but the foam under the tank moved while we were placing the tank and it made the tank a little uneven. Should I leave it the way it is or try and somehow lift it up or try and use shims to make it leveled?
Question though, the tank isn't completely leveled, from what I can tell the stand is perfectly leveled but the foam under the tank moved while we were placing the tank and it made the tank a little uneven. Should I leave it the way it is or try and somehow lift it up or try and use shims to make it leveled?
Jasonc
Guest
Looking good!
I'd take the foam out from underneath the tank. You only need foam under the tank if you are using a rimless tank. Rimmed tanks are designed to use the trim to support the tank and the foam puts pressure in weird places. Use shims under the stand to level the tank.
I'd take the foam out from underneath the tank. You only need foam under the tank if you are using a rimless tank. Rimmed tanks are designed to use the trim to support the tank and the foam puts pressure in weird places. Use shims under the stand to level the tank.
fredG
Guest
Yeah, I'm going take the foam off, only thing is trying to get someone to help me. Seems all my friends find a way to not come around when I need help lifting. The stand and tank are level themselves, it's just the foam throwing the tank off. There wouldn't be anyone willing to help today is there? lol
Did you get the foam off? more pics please!
fredG
Guest
yes I did. I'll upload some pictures later today after I get off. I also completed the plumbing last night.
fredG
Guest
Well I'm pretty much finished with the build process. I'll upload pictures tomorrow. It's been a long time coming.
TiAg
Guest
Go Fred! All the build's are going slow.
fredG
Guest
Anyone have experience using the red sea pro reef test kits? I somewhat know how to use it but it's still confusing.
