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NATURAL DIATOM ALGAE CONTROL FOR REEF AQUARIUMS
Geothermal Aquaculture Research Lab


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REEF ALGAE CONTROL CENTRAL
IF YOUR REEF AQUARIUM IS LESS THAN FOUR MONTHS OLD AND THE MAIN PROBLEM ALGAE IS A LIGHT RED BROWN DUSTING ON THE GLASS AND ROCKS - YOUR REEF HAS A DIATOM BLOOM. The Reef janitors Diatom control mixture contains extra Cerith and Nerite snails. Both of these Janitors do a great job of eating Diatom algae.
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INDEX
REEF AQUARIUM JANITOR ORDER FORM

LIVE SAND ACTIVATOR
REEF JANITOR SPECIAL SALE
GREAT REEF AQUARIUM LINKS


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CERITH SNAIL
Family Cerithiidae (CERITHS)
Cerithium strercusmuscarum

NEW - THIS SNAIL EATS DIATOM ALGAE -
Dark brown sculptured tower shaped (Turriform) algae eater. Active glass cleaner
This is the best cerith snail we have tested. It stays down in the aquarium on the glass cleaning algae and diatoms. It is listed in Julian Sprung's Reef Aquarium as a good algae eater. One inch long pointed shell, it can get in between rocks, it is a great glass cleaner. This snail cleans in zig zag pattern. It's radula is able to remove diatoms so well that they do not regrow from the original algal film. This snail does not dislodge or disturb any specimens.
SUGGESTED RETAIL EACH $2.98



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NERITE SNAIL
Family Neritidae
Nerita funiculata
Brown and black round algae eater. Active glass cleaner This species of Mexican Nerite is the best one we have tested. IT STAYS IN AQUARIUM
This snail lives much longer than astraea, it is slower and much better at removing all the algae and diatoms from the rocks and glass. This snail does not leave an algae film on the glass. It is also listed in Julian Sprung's Reef Aquarium as a good algae eater.

One half inch round shell with ridges. Found only on smooth rocks below average lowest tide. The choice of reef expert Larry Read.
SUGGESTED RETAIL EACH $2.98
REEF AQUARIUM JANITOR ORDER FORM



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LIVE SAND ACTIVATOR
DIATOMS ARE OFTEN A PROBLEM IN NEW TANKS BECAUSE THEY DO NOT CONTAIN THE MICRO ANIMALS THAT EAT DIATOMS. THIS GRUNGE WILL ADD MANY OF NEEDED MICRO GRAZERS YOUR REEF AQUARIUM LACKS.

CONTROL DIATOMS WITH GARF GRUNGE*
BACTERIA AND OTHER ORGANISMS FROM THE FINEST MARINE AQUARIUMS THAT WE HAVE KEPT DURING THE LAST TWENTY YEARS. WE ADD TO THIS GENETIC POOL OF FILTER ANIMALS EACH TIME WE RECEIVE LIVE ROCK FOR OUR RESEARCH.
GARF GRUNGE* HAS A VERY LARGE NUMBER OF CORALINE ALGAE SPECIES IN IT.


NO WILD LIVE SAND CAN HAVE THE BIODIVERSITY FOUND IN THIS ACTIVATOR!
$5.00 PER POUND
Reef aquariums require a large variety of organisms to filter the water properly. Aquarium habitat is very different from ocean habitat.

Live Sand from a natural reef is good for starting marine aquariums, but each location on a reef has a limited number of species. Poor packing and shipping methods further deplete this fragile wild population.

We have been keeping an unbroken chain of successful reef aquariums in Idaho since 1977. Several times during this period we have had over 100 aquariums. We have researched captive breeding of such diverse species as Chambered Nautilus and Acropora coral.


LIVE ROCK RESEARCH
Our continuing research into the commercial production of tank raised live rock has allowed us to purchase tons of prime live rock and live sand. We select species from the rock for our live rock genetic bank.
During the last year I was able to purchase over 1000 lbs. of the live sand and rubble from the bottom of the live rock holding tanks at several of the most famous live rockers.

This mixture was much more than just live sand!! Hundreds of invertebrates from the tons of live rock held in these tanks are now reproducing here in Idaho.


RESEARCH COLLECTING TRIPS
This mixture is now being added to by myself and Sally Jo. We are collecting sand stirrers and filter organisms on our research trips. We have made several trips to Mexico during the last two years looking for a site for a live rock farm. We are able to select various types of live sand for our experiments.
Last year Tom Frakes and I Explored Coronado Island in the Sea of Cortez. We found a bay with sand made up of branching coraline algae fragments. This coraline is the fastest growing dark purple and blue types I have found.


TRY LIVE SAND ACTIVATOR
GARF GRUNGE $5.00 LB.
0NE POUND FOR EACH THREE GALLONS WILL ACTIVATE TWO INCHES OF ARAGONITE SAND
ADD ONE POUND PER 10 GALLONS TO IMPROVE WILD LIVE SAND!

³the most important part. This is a "Grunge" from G.A.R.F. What the stuff contains is a culture of sand, coral rubble, small reef rocks, macro-algae, annelid worms, small pieces of sponges and corals, snails and crabs that is some of the coolest stuff I have ever seen!

I still keep seeing different things I didn't see before. We got 10 pounds about a week after the system was set up and mixed it in with the top layer of sand. This really gave the reef a pleasing natural look since it is very coarse and has a lot of color to it² *

Letter from The Sea Star
A monthly publication
for the marine aquarium hobbyist
by the President - Tim L. Weidauer
Wasatch Marine Society in Salt Lake City, UT.

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HOW TO ORDER DIATOM CONTROLREEF JANITOR MIXTURE*

JANITOR SPECIAL SALE

WE ARE OFFERING THIS COMPLETE REEF JANITOR PACKAGE FOR $1.50 PER GALLON.
WHEN YOU PURCHASE OUR JANITOR MIXTURE YOU SAVE 2/3 OF YOUR MONEY AND YOU WILL HAVE THE PROPER MIXTURE OF HERMIT CRABS AND SNAILS TO KEEP YOUR REEF ALGAE FREE
REEF AQUARIUM JANITOR ORDER FORM



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REEF DIATOM ALGAE REEF JANITOR SPECIAL ORDER FORM
PLEASE SEND ME
Red Leg Hermit Crabs for -- $2.98 each, plus shipping and handling
Diatom algae eating snails for -- $2.98 each, plus shipping and handling
live sand activator for -- $5.00 per lb., plus shipping and handling

30 GALLON REEF Forty five diatom control reef janitors for only $1.00 each.
ÝÝÝÝ -- $45.00, plus shipping and handling
50 GALLON REEF Eighty two diatom control reef janitors for only $1.00 each
ÝÝÝÝ -- $82.00, plus shipping and handling
100 GALLON REEF One hundred fifty diatom control reef janitors for only $1.00 each.
ÝÝÝÝ -- $150.00, plus shipping and handling


For us to fill your order, please enter your name, E-mail and phone numbers and we will call you to take down the size of your aquarium so we can help you order the proper mixture of reef janitors and Garf Grunge. We will ask for your mailing address and payment information. Thank you!! Alternatively, you may also print out and either mail or fax your order to 208-344-6189










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MISSION STATEMENT
TO PROVIDE THE CITIZENS OF IDAHO AND THE WORLD A SHOWCASE COLLECTION OF AQUATIC PLANTS, FISH, REEF ANIMALS AND PRODUCTS. TO STIMULATE INTEREST IN, APPRECIATION FOR AND AN UNDERSTANDING OF THESE COLLECTIONS. TO BE IMPLEMENTED THROUGH PLANT RECORDS, PUBLIC DISPLAYS, COLLECTIONS, APPLIED RESEARCH, PUBLICATIONS, INTERNSHIP PROGRAMS, AND SALES OF QUALITY PRODUCTS.


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Much of our research is being conducted in the field of reef farming. We are conducting these studies both in marine aquariums and in the ocean. Reef aquarium research is being conducted by members of the foundation both in the U.S. and in several other countries.
We also supply expert advice on algae control for the reef aquarium, wetlands and backyard ponds.
GREAT REEF AQUARIUM LINKS


Super glue research page Learn the newest method of invertebrate propagation
Super Glue evaluaton page Our researchers rate many brands of super glue
Geothermal Aquculture Research Foundation Feed Back page Please E-mail input so we can make these pages better
Soft Coral Propagation Page Pictures and details of soft coral propagation
Stony Coral Propagation Page Pictures

Learn to construct a 140 gallon plywood amd epoxy reef tank



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Contact: LeRoy Headlee - Sally Jo Headlee | Phone: 208-344-6163 | Fax: 208-344-6189


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Email: leroy@garf.org


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[Guest]

more info....

http://www.garf.org/

 

[Brad]

Make sure you check out the posts on reefcentral about GARF. Lots of good marketing, not as good at product. At least from what I have read.

 

[Guest]

If you take too much phosphate out of the water to combat hair algae and cyanobacteria, you not only slow down the growth of hair algae but the growth of everything. Constant overuse of phosphate remover will help me get a beautifully clean tank that is slow growing with dead sarcophyton corals after a while. So, too much phosphate slows down coral skeletal formation and too little phosphate starves corals.

 

[Guest]

In this lesson you will be learning how to construct a Plexiglass Coral Farming Unit that will use 40 W lights, Maxi-Jet power heads and one SeaClone skimmer. The planned for this unit can be modified in any way that you like to so that the unit will fit in the space available.
The basic plan calls for a wide aquarium that is much longer and wider than it is tall. We found that aquariums for Xenias do not need to be more than about 12 in. deep. When we design a grow out tank we usually make it 4 ft. long because we can use standard of 40 W fluorescent lighting. The tank that we're going to build in this lesson will have the dimensions of 48 in. long by 24 in. wide by 12 in. deep.

We will be constructing this tank out of 3/8 in. clear Plexiglass because 3/8 inch Plexiglass makes a sturdy aquarium. These plans can be made using 1/4 inch Plexiglass if you are careful to supply a sturdy stand that will support the bottom of the tank.

This system has an oak stand that is made in pieces so it can be assembled by one person with no screws. This stand can be shipped flat and it can be set up in about five minutes.
We have been operating three of these tanks for one year and we have learned several things that will make their operation of these units more trouble-free. When we constructed the first cutting unit we used Maxi-Jet 1200 power heads to pump the water from the bottom tank to the upper to tanks. These power heads were placed at the back of the bottom tank because the plumbing was all behind the stand.

This semester we have set up the new three tank unit in another part of the laboratory and all the power heads will be on the left side of the bottom tank so they will be easily accessible when they need to be serviced. When we set up the first three units we drilled one - one inch hole in the back right hand corner of the top two tanks. We used one 1 1/4 inch clear plastic stand pipe to regulate the water level.

In the new unit we drilled two 1 in. holes in each back corner of the wall of tank, and we drilled 1 1/2 inch hole in the middle of the back wall. We now have 3 overflows on each of the top twp tanks.

When we plumbed the first unit last year we used flexible clear plastic tubing from the power heads to each unit. After about six months we noticed that Algae was growing inside of the pipes causing the back pressure to increase. We also had algae growing inside of the stand pipes. In this unit all pipes that move water are all opaque PVC pipe.

As we learn to produce corals we are making our new tanks shallower because the light is used better, and we can stack several tanks on one stand. Some of our newest cutting tanks are only 4 inches deep. You can use these plans to make make any size aquarium. The trick to planning your cutting list is that you add the two thickness's of plastic together and subtract that from any place you need to

 

[Guest]

In this drawing the front and back pieces set on top of the bottom piece so I subtract 1/2 inch from the ends. You can order the Plexiglass precut if you do not have a table saw. I always make the bottom piece the size of the finished tank. The other pieces are glued on top of the bottom piece for extra support.

MATERIALS
1. Plexiglass cut to size
2. 4 oz. can of thin acrylic cement
3. a needle squeeze bottle
4. 2 oz. tube of thick filling type acrylic cement
5. electrical tape
6. sand paper

The small needle squeeze bottle will be used to apply the cement by squriting it betwwen the pieces of plastic after they have been taped together.

I like to use electrical tape because I can stretch it to apply even pressure as the cement dries. The tube of thick filling type acrylic cement is used to fill any small spaces left by not having straight cuts. This will not be a problem if you order the plastic precut.

 

[Guest]

In this drawing the front and back pieces set on top of the bottom piece so I subtract 1/2 inch from the ends. You can order the Plexiglass precut if you do not have a table saw. I always make the bottom piece the size of the finished tank. The other pieces are glued on top of the bottom piece for extra support.

MATERIALS
1. Plexiglass cut to size
2. 4 oz. can of thin acrylic cement
3. a needle squeeze bottle
4. 2 oz. tube of thick filling type acrylic cement
5. electrical tape
6. sand paper

The small needle squeeze bottle will be used to apply the cement by squriting it betwwen the pieces of plastic after they have been taped together.

I like to use electrical tape because I can stretch it to apply even pressure as the cement dries. The tube of thick filling type acrylic cement is used to fill any small spaces left by not having straight cuts. This will not be a problem if you order the plastic precut.

After the tank is glued together you just run the needle bottle full of cement down each edge that you are gluing. You will see that the space between the two pieces of plastic becomes clear as the cement melts the plastic.
Be very careful that you do not get any glue on the rest of the plastic because it will damage the surface. If you are making a tank with a sump it is better to practice on the sump first. The sump will not be veiwed so any mistakes you make on it can be corrected on the main tank.

It is better if you do not need the thick cement, but I often run a bead of it inside of all seams. This extra cement will fill any leaks that are caused by the uneven edges. If I am making a show tank I do not use this thick cement. The joints will very strong if all of edges are water tight.



This picture shows how we build the light rack for these coral farming units. These Racks are made of clear acrylic Plexiglass. We drill holes for the light bulbs with a Forstner bit. We make the supports for the racks from 2 pieces of one-quarter inch clear plastic. We glue these 2 pieces of plastic into T shaped bars and we slot the side racks to receive the bottom of the T. When we put the Oak stand together we found a very simple way to hinge the light rack. We drilled a 3/4 inch hole in each of the pieces of plastic that we used to hold the Bulbs. By drilling a 1 in. hole in each of the back legs of the tank stand we were able to insert a piece of three quarter inch PVC pipe between the back legs to act as a hinge for the light rack. In the top view of the plastic light rack you can see how we insert it.

During the next semester we will be building two more of these units. As we construct these new units we will make several videos. These plastic light racks work very well because it is important to have the lights as close to the water surface as possible. We will be experimenting with reflectors that will fit over the Bulbs. On this unit that we are using polished aluminum.
We are using the new electronic 3 bulb -40 W ballasts because they put out so much light with inexpensive 40 W bulbs. By drilling 6 pair of holes in each light rack we can adjust the number of Bulbs that we use above the tank.

 

[Guest]

This picture it shows another way that we make plastic light racks. This design consists of 1/4 inch plastic I beams with holes drilled for the light bulbs. This design works very well with six-foot Bulbs because of the added strength. We use the other method because we want to have as little plastic below the Bulbs blocking the light as possible.
During the next 2 semesters here GARF we will be constructing several different coral farming systems so that we can develop a complete system that can be shipped anywhere in the world. We believe that this 3 tank unit that measures 4 ft. by 2 ft. will make the best use of the space in many homes.
Each of these units has 6 - 40 watt bulbs over them. I made a plastic rack to hold the lights. I am just finishing the second pulley system that allows Sally Jo to lift the lights out of the way and lock them open.



I have been building several different types of systems to lift the lights out of the way. I will show some pictures of the ones that work the best. This pulley system works very well, but I need to find a stronger cable to attach to the handles.
I used the nylon line from our weed eater for the first unit. It stretched and broke after several months. I have been looking for some stainless steel cables that is encased in a plastic cover. I have seen this used to hang stereo speakers. The light racks that I am building now are designed to give us as much space as possible for working in the cutting unit.

I have found out while watching Sally Jo work on this unit that it is often necessary to have all three lights up at once. She is often moving corals from one layer to the next. I am working on a method of lifting all three lights with a push button.

When the tank is sealed I add a piece of plastic that is one and one half inches wide around the top. This piece of plastic makes the sides stronger so they do not bow when the tank is filled. You can see this top molding in the pictures of the finished tank.
There are several ways to finish the edges of the tank. Sand paper is the safest way to round the outside edges. I use 200 grit and then finish with a 400 grit wet and dry paper. You can also finish the edges with a blow torch, but I am sure you will want to practice on some scraps first.

Let the tank dry in a warm room for 24 hours before you fill it with fresh water. If there are any leaks you can apply a bead of thick cement to the inside seam.

When we set up this coral firming unit at the foundation we placed it next to one of our oldest systems. This sps system consists of the 6 ft. long 135 gal. reef tank. We built an overflow box for this 135 gal. reef tank from plastic. The cutting unit is set up with a 12 in. by 48 in. Eco-Sand Plenum in the bottom tank. We used a magnetic drive water pump and we are drawing the water through several inches of course aragonite Gravel. The Eco-Sand Plenum will not clog up because of the course black nylon mesh that covers this Plenum.

We used a large magnetic drive pump and the majority of the water flow is directed back into the bottom tank. We chose to use a gravel filter because when we are propagating soft corals there are often small pieces of coral and Xenia polyps that get caught on pump intakes and wasted. We use the 3 quarter inch ball valves to regulate the amount of water that flows through the 2 upper cutting units and the 135 gal. reef tank.
By placing this system next to an established brood stock aquarium we were able to utilize the filtration and stability of the 135 gal. aquarium. After the water levels had been adjusted we were able to start producing corals within 24 hours. We are now planning to install these coral farming units near each of our other large brood stock reef systems

 

[Guest]

This picture it shows another way that we make plastic light racks. This design consists of 1/4 inch plastic I beams with holes drilled for the light bulbs. This design works very well with six-foot Bulbs because of the added strength. We use the other method because we want to have as little plastic below the Bulbs blocking the light as possible.
During the next 2 semesters here GARF we will be constructing several different coral farming systems so that we can develop a complete system that can be shipped anywhere in the world. We believe that this 3 tank unit that measures 4 ft. by 2 ft. will make the best use of the space in many homes.
Each of these units has 6 - 40 watt bulbs over them. I made a plastic rack to hold the lights. I am just finishing the second pulley system that allows Sally Jo to lift the lights out of the way and lock them open.



I have been building several different types of systems to lift the lights out of the way. I will show some pictures of the ones that work the best. This pulley system works very well, but I need to find a stronger cable to attach to the handles.
I used the nylon line from our weed eater for the first unit. It stretched and broke after several months. I have been looking for some stainless steel cables that is encased in a plastic cover. I have seen this used to hang stereo speakers. The light racks that I am building now are designed to give us as much space as possible for working in the cutting unit.

I have found out while watching Sally Jo work on this unit that it is often necessary to have all three lights up at once. She is often moving corals from one layer to the next. I am working on a method of lifting all three lights with a push button.

When the tank is sealed I add a piece of plastic that is one and one half inches wide around the top. This piece of plastic makes the sides stronger so they do not bow when the tank is filled. You can see this top molding in the pictures of the finished tank.
There are several ways to finish the edges of the tank. Sand paper is the safest way to round the outside edges. I use 200 grit and then finish with a 400 grit wet and dry paper. You can also finish the edges with a blow torch, but I am sure you will want to practice on some scraps first.

Let the tank dry in a warm room for 24 hours before you fill it with fresh water. If there are any leaks you can apply a bead of thick cement to the inside seam.

When we set up this coral firming unit at the foundation we placed it next to one of our oldest systems. This sps system consists of the 6 ft. long 135 gal. reef tank. We built an overflow box for this 135 gal. reef tank from plastic. The cutting unit is set up with a 12 in. by 48 in. Eco-Sand Plenum in the bottom tank. We used a magnetic drive water pump and we are drawing the water through several inches of course aragonite Gravel. The Eco-Sand Plenum will not clog up because of the course black nylon mesh that covers this Plenum.

We used a large magnetic drive pump and the majority of the water flow is directed back into the bottom tank. We chose to use a gravel filter because when we are propagating soft corals there are often small pieces of coral and Xenia polyps that get caught on pump intakes and wasted. We use the 3 quarter inch ball valves to regulate the amount of water that flows through the 2 upper cutting units and the 135 gal. reef tank.
By placing this system next to an established brood stock aquarium we were able to utilize the filtration and stability of the 135 gal. aquarium. After the water levels had been adjusted we were able to start producing corals within 24 hours. We are now planning to install these coral farming units near each of our other large brood stock reef systems

At GARF we believe that the best way to design a new system is to actually build it and then work with it for several years. Hopefully by the time you are ready to construct your coral farm we will have been able to work out many of the details.
One of the things that we have been working with is a rotating water return. By using maxi jet 1200 power heads in the corners of each layer we are able to increase the water flow. If we were to attempt to utilize the water flow from the magnetic drive pump to create adequate circulation we would need to use at least three 2 in. drains on each level. By using the maxi jet power heads we can adjust the flow around the inside of the tank and we do not have to worry about drainage.

This picture shows a very simple overflow box that we used to return the water from the 135 gal. reef tank to the sump. We construct these overflow boxes from 1/4 inch Plexiglass. We make the siphon tubes from three quarter inch PVC pipe. We utilize the venturri water return on the Maxi Jet 1200 pumps to draw air through the one-way air valve on top of the return tube.

I hope this new set of drawings give you some great ideas on how to build coral farming units. We are very interested in any pictures you may have of your coral farming systems. Please send us any information that you want to share. Each month one person is awarded seven very rare collector corals from our personal collection. Often this winner has sent us an interesting article or picture.