Keith's 75g Algae Box. (now with less algae!) (1 Viewer)

[kgk]

Yeah but imagine that the chiller going on all day in the summer months when it’s almost 100 degrees in the garage. These days the cost of electricity consumption is a big issue for reefers.

That was where I was thinking ... lighting + pumps + 100 degree garage ... must take a beefy chiller!

 

[Slayer311]

not realy, running a 1/4hp teco on my 180, never got above 81 and didn't run full time either.

 

[RR-MAN]

not realy, running a 1/4hp teco on my 180, never got above 81 and didn't run full time either.

Yeah but what was the electric bill like for those months?

 

[Slayer311]

Having had the garage insulated, not terrible, summer is not uncommon to get $500 electric bills :/ a lot of that is ac though.

 

[djreef]

It's actually kind of a cool setup.

Quoc keeps his tank in the garage.

DJ

Yeah but imagine that the chiller going on all day in the summer months when it’s almost 100 degrees in the garage. These days the cost of electricity consumption is a big issue for reefers.

True, Quoc is filthy rich though, so he can afford it.

DJ

 

[djreef]

Wow I would've figured it would've been alot higher than 81.

DJ

 

[kgk]

I am adding to the CUC this Friday. John at ReefCleaners was quite helpful via email, and their prices are certainly good.

80 Dwarf Ceriths
12 Nassarius
10 Florida Ceriths
25 Blue Legs
12 Small to medium Nerites

I have a bunch of hermits & snails in there already, but with this algae, nobody is going to starve anytime soon.

 

[djreef]

U may want to rethink the Nerite order. Those guys like to stroll out of the tank. I'd get more of the others.

DJ

 

[Slayer311]

never had them myself, my preferance of snails in order is, trochus snails, astrea snails, cerith snails, colunista snails(dibs turbos), dwarf nasarius snails.

Only ones other than pests that I hate are mexican turbos, they bulldoze everything!! stupid snails and margaritta snails, our tanks aren't cold enough for them so they eventualy all die off.

 

[kgk]

The new light bulbs went in tonight. What a difference! And it was easy ... what a cool, visible difference. The colors really stand out.

And my algae is really starting to die back. I have large areas of the aforementioned "grey mush" that can only be algae die-back. What's the easiest way to clean the rocks? I could use a turkey baster, but do you think it's safe to use a small powerhead to "blow" off the rocks? Seems reasonable but maybe someone has a tale of horror to tell before I try. I seem to find new and creative ways to make things harder than they have to be lately.

My RO/DI filter is in & making water now, too, so no more distilled water! And no more trips to Wal-Mart at 10 pm for water. That's enough to make a grown man smile.

 

[djreef]

Do a water change and siphon that crap outta the system. The best form of nutrient export involves a hose and bucket.

DJ

 

[Slayer311]

Grats on the new ro/di. Do you have a TDS on it? In the beginning its not too important unless something isn't installed right and the TDS will be a huge help because it will show you that your numbers are off. I would recommend getting one after about the 3month mark. As the numbers climb you can tell when its time to replace the sediment filter and carbon blocks. If you wait to long you risk damaging your ro membrane, the more expensive filter to replace.

As for algae blasting, go for it with the pump, will be just fine.

Also grats on the new lights, I miss my T5 setup, some people are die hard halide fans, but imo they are over-rated. The flexability of the t5's is paramount to none and I loved the color pop from my corals. However the hallides do have the leg up in coral growth, but I miss the colors a bit.

 

[kgk]

Grats on the new ro/di. Do you have a TDS on it? In the beginning its not too important unless something isn't installed right and the TDS will be a huge help because it will show you that your numbers are off. I would recommend getting one after about the 3month mark. As the numbers climb you can tell when its time to replace the sediment filter and carbon blocks. If you wait to long you risk damaging your ro membrane, the more expensive filter to replace.

As for algae blasting, go for it with the pump, will be just fine.

Also grats on the new lights, I miss my T5 setup, some people are die hard halide fans, but imo they are over-rated. The flexability of the t5's is paramount to none and I loved the color pop from my corals. However the hallides do have the leg up in coral growth, but I miss the colors a bit.

I got the Buckeye Premium system (great support BTW), and it came with a TDS meter. I am sure I shouldn't measure it in the bucket I am pumping the water into - I mix salt in there (doing a water change) - so I haven't measured yet. Is there a "best" way to do the measurement? I had planned on researching that around here tonight but I haven't gotten to it yet.

I am going to siphon "10 gallons of water" worth of the stuff out, and see how it looks, then I'll probably try the power head. What size hose do you guys use for this?

 

[djreef]

I'd go with a smaller diameter 3/4" or so that way you can target specific areas and not suck out too much water too fast. It helps too if u can attach some rigid tubing to the business end so you can get into corners and crevases.

DJ

 

[Slayer311]

As far as the handheld tds meeter goes, you can measure the water coming out in a clean class, however I would suggest investing in a $30 dual inline tds meeter. It splices into the existing tubing on your ro/di and tells you want the TDS is coming into the unit and what it is before the ro membrane, or before ro membrane and after di ressin etc.. many differant install options. Basically gives you confirmation of when your sediment / carbon block filters are exhausted so you can replace them before you damage your ro/membrane.

 

[kgk]

As far as the handheld tds meeter goes, you can measure the water coming out in a clean class, however I would suggest investing in a $30 dual inline tds meeter. It splices into the existing tubing on your ro/di and tells you want the TDS is coming into the unit and what it is before the ro membrane, or before ro membrane and after di ressin etc.. many differant install options. Basically gives you confirmation of when your sediment / carbon block filters are exhausted so you can replace them before you damage your ro/membrane.

0 TDS with a handheld in a clean glass.

 

[Slayer311]

Perfect!!

 

[kgk]

I don't like my sump setup - it basically only has 2 chambers, and inlet that is a refugium, and a return section. I want to put a bigger in-sump skimmer in there, but that means new sump! More research to do.

 

[Slayer311]

What size is the area below the tank? a simple sump can be made easily out of a stock 20long to accomodate most skimmers.

 

[kgk]

What size is the area below the tank? a simple sump can be made easily out of a stock 20long to accomodate most skimmers.

It's a 4' long stand ... I figure I have about 14" in width and about 30" in length to play with & be able to comfortably fit it through the front doors of the stand.