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Humblefish

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Right today it looked more like ick, but I do still still see some fuzziness.

Only see spots on those two fish, I have two clowns, a fox face, and a file fish with no signs.

All of fish still eating like pigs. I fed 2 cubes today. All feedings have been supplemented with garlic extreme and zoecon

I got a Copperband a couple weeks back and found it stuck on the PH on Thursday last week after being in the tank for 12 days. I took it out of the display before it died in the sump later that night.

Also added a new Willow leather which was sliming a bit on Sunday.
Looks like Ich to me.

I would start dosing peroxide (as a temp fix) until you can catch all the fish & QT: How To - Peroxide (H2O2) dosing for parasites in reef tank
 
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No spots prior, all fish except one clown came previously QTed. Tank had been fallow for over 1 year prior to fish additions starting November/December.

The two tangs have been in the tank for 3 weeks. Both were clean before adding to tank. The Blue tang flashed for the first couple days with no ick, I attributed this behavior to new environment. Sailfin has shown no signs up until Monday night when I saw it constantly swimming in front of the vortech.

The last addition was the Copperband which passed, but also had no sign of ick. He did have a bump on the mouth which I researched and found to be a symptom of lymphocytes, no signs of ick. I kept it in a fresh water tub after removing from the aquarium to see if flukes or other parasites fall off, but still didn’t see the body deteriorate much over the next couple days.

None of the other fish have displayed any flashing behavior or erratic swimming etc. only the two tangs have been skittish when I make sudden moves in front of the tank but still come out and stay right in front every time I walk up in anticipation of getting fed along with all other fishes.
Yeah, it sounds like the new clown may have brought in ich. Doesn’t sound like velvet, other than they’re swimming in the flow. Could just be a coincidence. Just update if they start declining.
 
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Yeah, it sounds like the new clown may have brought in ich. Doesn’t sound like velvet, other than they’re swimming in the flow. Could just be a coincidence. Just update if they start declining.
I have just had very bad luck over the years with fish QT or not. I got super exited adding fish and corals to my tank again after a couple years.

I think I need to change the way I do things now and order grindal worm or white worm cultures.
 
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Thanks for pointing to the H2O2 thread @Humblefish . Is there any evidence of leathers/soft corals do not survive the H2O2 dosing? I do have only one Willow Coral which I can move to another tank. If I do move it though, what can I do to ensure I don’t end up infecting the other tank?
I don’t think it will harm the corals because it is a low dose, but do keep in mind that peroxide off the Walmart shelf is not going to be the best on purity so if it were me…I’d keep it out of the DT and only use in QT as a bath where it is great. I’m a little more conscious of purity standards though because I keep Acro’s and get bimonthly ICP’s. When you see just how many things can cause pollutants in a reef tank you start to really keep an eye on things. Just one pollutant (depending on what it is) can cause corals to pale, polyps to retract, slow or stop growth completely, and even RTN.
 
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Both looking a lot better today. No other fish have signs. Today is probably Day 5 from first time I noticed spots.
 

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Humblefish

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Thanks for pointing to the H2O2 thread @Humblefish . Is there any evidence of leathers/soft corals do not survive the H2O2 dosing? I do have only one Willow Coral which I can move to another tank. If I do move it though, what can I do to ensure I don’t end up infecting the other tank?
Most corals (even acros) tolerate the treatment well. It seems inverts which are most sensitive to changing water chemistry (e.g. snails, urchins, starfish) sometimes don't survive.

I don’t think it will harm the corals because it is a low dose, but do keep in mind that peroxide off the Walmart shelf is not going to be the best on purity so if it were me…I’d keep it out of the DT and only use in QT as a bath where it is great. I’m a little more conscious of purity standards though because I keep Acro’s and get bimonthly ICP’s. When you see just how many things can cause pollutants in a reef tank you start to really keep an eye on things. Just one pollutant (depending on what it is) can cause corals to pale, polyps to retract, slow or stop growth completely, and even RTN.
Perox-Aid (35% hydrogen peroxide) is aquaculture approved but difficult to buy unless you are a public aquarium: https://syndel.com/product/35-perox-aid/

This is probably the next best thing: 35% Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide 1 Gallon - Bulk Peroxide

In both cases, the dosing will need to be adjusted because all instructions on my website are for 3% hydrogen peroxide.
 
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Most corals (even acros) tolerate the treatment well. It seems inverts which are most sensitive to changing water chemistry (e.g. snails, urchins, starfish) sometimes don't survive.


Perox-Aid (35% hydrogen peroxide) is aquaculture approved but difficult to buy unless you are a public aquarium: https://syndel.com/product/35-perox-aid/

This is probably the next best thing: 35% Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide 1 Gallon - Bulk Peroxide

In both cases, the dosing will need to be adjusted because all instructions on my website are for 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Yeah, it is much better for a reef if you try to source a quality product. However, if only treating a QT…Walmart it is baby! :) Although I quit shopping there…so Target for me.
 
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Thanks everyone for help identifying and offers for meds.

For now I didn’t take the fish out due to freezing weather over that last couple days and both of them appear to have shed the ick, showing no spots at all, neither is any of the other fish.

I’ll continue to observe if any appear over the next few days.
 
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