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My Ph is too low (1 Viewer)

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BP

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I took some water in to get tested at Neptunes Garden today and received news that I did not want to hear. After doing the test for Ph, the guy told me that it was way too low, approx. 7.6 or so. It was low in the past so I've been using a ph/alkalinity buffer to help bring it up. He also tested the calcium and came up with 900 ppm for my 20G tank, which is also too high.Could one have something to do with the other? All things considered, the tank looks well, just too many aiptasia and my xenia from Kevin(reefalot) still refuses to pulse. Any suggestions besides the obvious" do a water change" that I received from the store?

Thanks in advance,
BP
 

Trey

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Hello BP,

My first thought is to ask what is your alkylinity. This is a measure of the buffering capacity of your tank. A properly buffered tank should manage its pH, more or less on its own. Inexpensive alkylinity tests are available at your LFS and IMO this should be measured weekly at least.

The second question is do you use a calcium additive such as Kent's Liquid Calcium? There is nothing wrong with the additive, but it does consume alkalinity and can therefore cause your pH to swing.

As for the Ca level that you report, it is technically impossible to have that much calcium soluble at typical salt levels. I would say that in fact something is interfering with the Ca test.

If you have the time, add a response here that speaks to the general set-up of your tank and typical additives and maintenance that you use. This might help us narrow down your problem.

Later,
Trey
 
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BP

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Thanks for the quick response Trey.

According to the 5 in 1 dip test that was done prior to the Ph test, the alkalinity was around 300 ppm? ( this is a Jungle brand test strip) and it also said that my Ph was about normal so I'm not trusting that test. I do use kalkwasser solution but not very often. Water change was done last week, 5.5 gallons on a 20 gallon tank, prior to this it was about 2 months. The tank has been running about 3 years if that matters, I'm using a Tetra W/D 4000 for filtration and 2 301's for circulation. There's about 20 pounds of sand and about 30 pounds of live rock. Lighting is a coralife 65W 50/50 strip. ( Yes I know this is not one of the better setups in this society but it was working good for a long time)

Anything else you need to know just let me know, and thanks for the help.
Brandon
 

Trey

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Hello Brandon,

Thanks for the additional information. My first thought is that you would do well to make a small investment in reputable test kits for alkalinity, pH, and calcium. I think that these are minimum weekly testing requirements for any salt water tank. I believe the results from such test kits would allow you to properly maintain your tank. Such kits should be used to define kalkwasser addition requirements and buffer addition requirements.

One other issue that interests me is the possibility that you may have excess CO2 soluble in your tank. This is most typically caused by excess CO2 in the air in your house. You could try opening the windows on your house or apartment on a mild spring day (like today) and see if your pH rises. Of course you will need a test kit to know.

I suggest that you start with water testing and then address the problem from a position of knowledge.

Later,
Trey
 

lesd

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IMO pH test kits are just about worthless. You would do much better to save your $$ for a decent pH meter. I'm sure if you search around you can find one for a reasonable price online.

However, I agree that the calcium and alkalinity test kits are essential. Take care of calcium and alkalinity and pH usually takes care of itself.

-- Les
 

djreef

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I'm with Les. pH kits are extremely unreliable, and are a major pain to use. It's so much easier to just stick a probe in the water, and know instantly what the pH is. Besides the meter will allow you to observe changes in the system pH as you're making them. Extremely important as pH shock can literally obliterate a system.

DJ
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K

Kabuto

Also you pH can fall at night, so the lowest point for testing would be right before lights come on. I have a little PH pointed to the top of the water to keep my pH stable. Without it my pH will drop to 7.8 from 8.2 in the morning.
 

aqua-nut

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Kabuto, your description of what you do to stabilize your pH is baffling, but it sounds interesting. Could you repost with some detail? What's a "little PH pointed to the top"?
 

AggieBrandon

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Yeah my guess it is helps a lot with oxygen exchange to keep the CO2 out of the water therefore keeping pH higher. Large surface area, a protein skimmer, etc all help to add oxygen to the water which also helps keep pH higher. Most people already know this but I figured I would post it anyway :)
 
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BP

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Yeah, the two powerheads that are in my tank are upper level, pointed at the front glass. This provides rippling across the water surface. I did not want to get too turbulent as the tank is in my bedroom and my wife HATES noise of any kind, including my sleep breathing. I'm going to pick up a simple test kit this week, any preferences? I stopped in T&T and they have a Tetra kit for 19.99, an Aquarium Pharmaceutical(sp?) for 25.99, and a Fastest for 39.99. Just don't know which is more reliable.

BP
 
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BP

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Well, untill I get my test kit, (hopefully a reliable one) I raised the powerheads so that the nozzles are about 2" from the surface. This is really helping with breaking the surface tension now, hope it helps bring more oxygen into the tank. Also added a small air pump and line into the back of the Whisper to provide turbulence there also. Not sure if that will help but we'll see. Now if I could only get a peppermint shrimp or two, my aiptasia is starting to spread like crazy. Anyone know when they come into season?

Thanks,
BP
 
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