New Reef Red Sea Max 34G (1 Viewer)

[jdeveaux]

Established 5-12-2007

First of all this tank is very well constructed and I really like it so far. I'll let you know what I think of it after I've been running it for awhile.

I have a few questions if anybody else reading this has been running a Max.
1. Have you had a problem with heat in the tank? Room temp is 74-75 and the tank is stable at 82(assuming my thermometer is working). I plan to add a fan to the space they provided on the back of the hood. Not sure why the tank doesn't just come with the fan given the price.
2. Have you had problems with micro airbubbles spitting out of the return. There are not alot of them but enough to be annoying. I'm hoping it is just new tank start up and it will work itself out. I get them with or without the skimmer running.

I'm attaching a few pictures.

I also want exentd a big thanks to Cameron at Fish Gallery he has been very helpful in helping me get caught up with some of the changes in reef keeping since my last tank was 8 years ago.

Base – 2.5” Sand Mix
22 lbs Aragonite Red Sea
5 lbs Ocean Direct Carib-Sea
20 lbs Arag-Alive Carib-Sea Fiji Pink Sand
One Big scoop from LFS tank with a couple of hitchhikers
Live Rock – 90% Cured (I haven’t found anything dead on it yet)
33 lbs Fiji (I believe) with nice purple Coraline Algae
(Need to aquascape still)

T5 Factory lighting 10k/420nm x 2
110Watt total

Factory Filtration:
4” Foam filter
1/2” Poly
1” Poly added whenever I stir up the base
Protein Skimmer
~1lb Ceramic BIO media
~1lb Carbon media
Livestock: (still planning and researching)
Current game plan
Mostly inverts, soft corals, might try a SPS near the top
2 Dwarf/Pygmy Angels (flame/Coral Beauty)
2 True Percula Clowns Paired
Blenny or Goby
Maybe a Damsel to start things off

 

[Guest]

I would ditch all the sponges that come with the tank....fill those compartments with LR rubble!

 

[jdeveaux]

Do you think I should replace the ceramic media with LR rubble as well? I’ve read posts on other sites that people are running floss in front of the skimmer and then just rubble after the skimmer. No other filter media. I am personally all for that idea since changing that carbon is going to be a real pain. You have to take out the 2 primary pumps to get to it.
Does the carbon do any good in a nano considering all of the water is RO?
This evening I installed a FAN in to the back of the canopy and was able to wire it into the system seamlessly so hopefully that will help get the temps down under 82 degrees.

I am still digging around the site so if some of these questions are redundant I appoligize in advance. ;-)

 

[ShaneV]

If its a pain to change out the carbon, over the long term it probably wont be done consistentlly (I know it wouldnt with me ) Id say ditch the carbon there and put rubble in. Carbon works to remove a lot of things from a reef tank, and I think its a good idea to use it, but it only works for a limited time and needs to be changed out occasionally.

 

[Guest]

I have only rubble and chaeto in my back chambers.... had a bag of chem-pure elite for a short period of time but it's gone now. The only thing I did keep back there is a bag of Seachem Purigen.

 

[jdeveaux]

I have only rubble and chaeto in my back chambers.... had a bag of chem-pure elite for a short period of time but it's gone now. The only thing I did keep back there is a bag of Seachem Purigen.

Doesn't chaeto need a light source? If so I'm not sure how I would keep light on it but I will definitely see if I can rig a light in there ;-) Nothing like challenges to work on to help get the mind off of stocking the aquarium.

 

[jdeveaux]

If its a pain to change out the carbon, over the long term it probably wont be done consistentlly (I know it wouldnt with me ) Id say ditch the carbon there and put rubble in. Carbon works to remove a lot of things from a reef tank, and I think its a good idea to use it, but it only works for a limited time and needs to be changed out occasionally.

I'm pretty detailed when it comes to taking care of my tanks so I'm sure it would get changed but I definitely wouldn't mind finding an easier way to do it. It may just be the price of trying to run a all-in-one tank. It looks really nice but it definitely makes me miss using a sump.

Right now that section is ceramic bio pieces and then the carbon. Would the LR be better than keeping the ceramic media?

Thank you for the input.

 

[Guest]

On my NC12g the back is covered with a black stick-on plastic and the rear pane of the tank is clear so I just cut the square out and have a PC light mounted behind the tank so the light shines into the chamber with the chaeto.

 

[jdeveaux]

Aquascaping complete

Finally got my LR setup the way I like it and believe will work best for the future tenants.


John

 

[Guest]

Looks cool!

 

[jdeveaux]

Update

4 weeks, 4 20% water changes, a little bio-spira, and the tank is doing great and running very well.

I started the tank with RO+salt Red Sea mix, LR, Live Sand, and pure ammonia then monitored the ammonia levels. After the spike started I dumped 3oz of bio-spira in and the ammonia zero'd out and the nitrates started. I then started water changes and monitoring levels. I still have not seen an ammonia spike with daily testing. All LR was cured and the sand came from lots of sources. 22lbs argonite, 25lbs Carib-Sea- 5lbs-tank donations.

I do have one funky growth that has started on my glass but I'll post that in the general area for identification.

I did have to add the extra cooling fan to the MAX to keep the temp. at 78 degrees.

Here are some pics. Regards,

John

 

[dollarz81]

You may wanna do some research on those anemones. They require alot of light.

 

[jdeveaux]

You may wanna do some research on those anemones. They require alot of light.

Right now they are sitting under 110watts of T5 power compacts. Do you think they'll need more? I'm planning on getting the upgrade kit from nanotuners to convet it to 150 Watt HQI.

Thanks,

John

 

[dollarz81]

Yea, that would help. Even though it is only a 40 watt difference, the MH bulb is much more intense.

 

[jdeveaux]

Yea, that would help. Even though it is only a 40 watt difference, the MH bulb is much more intense.

The only thing I'm still trying to determine and maybe you can help with the decision. Would the 12500k or the 20000k bulb be better? This will be my research project for tonight

 

[dollarz81]

I am a huge fan of 20K bulbs. I think 20K would be perfect for a nano since everything is right under the light.

 

[Guest]

I have the 14k Ushio bulbs on my 12g and it's like a white ice type color....wish it was a bit more blue but it's a real nice color that still allows for good viewing.

I might jump to the astralux 14k next which is suppose to be a bit more blue.

 

[jdeveaux]

Well I took the plunge and it was a very long day of delicate lip bitting work but I managed to pull apart the hood on my max and cram the following kit into it from Nanotunners...

1 150w HQI 20k bulb
2 18w PC Actinic bulbs
2 5w R2 Moon lights

I am probably going to replace the 18w Actinic bulbs with 18w 10k bulbs. All of the colors pop nicely with just the 20k bulb and the extra 36w of 10k can't hurt ;-)

I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Regards,

John

 

[Guest]

Do post pictures!!!!

I am debating on upgrading my 70w to a 150w on my Nanocube.

 

[Wiggy]

Tank pics are excellent. Very clean looking tank. Been a few weeks since I checked out the nano threads. I don't know if your plans in the original posts have changed at all but if you still plan on messing around with sps (especially now that you have the halides) along with softies, running carbon might not be a bad idea. It would help absorb some of the organic chemicle compounds given off by the softies. Several such as the sarcophytons, and lobophytums can be fairly toxic (particularly to sps's).