Noisy Durso (1 Viewer)

[Pure Magic]

My reef tanks have been 40 gallons and 55 gallons with HOB hardware. RR tanks are new to me but I will never go back to HOB.

With that said, I really need some help. I upgraded my sump pump. The new pump is pushing 150 gph than the old one. However, my flow from my tank to sump was not enough so I had to enlarge my hole on my duro to about 3/16s size. I have a good flow from my sump to my tank and back to the sump now but I have the toilet flushing sound constantly from my durso.

Do I need to drill the hole out bigger on top of my durso? Please let me know what to do. Thank you in advance.

 

[fredG]

I think you're supposed to insert airline tubing into the hole and move it up and down until the durso becomes quiet.

 

[zeek]

Check this out How to Silence Quiet Your Overflow Box ( Stockman Standpipe ) - YouTube about a third into the video he sticks a tubeline with a small regulator that should help you.

Also... you made the hole bigger to increase the flow? Insert from the Durso page itself says bigger hole is lower flow.... Air Hole & Water Level - Page 3


Standpipe Air Hole

A very small, as small as I could make it (thickness of a toothpick), hole is drilled in the top of the End-Cap fitting. This allows some air to enter into the standpipe. This size air hole worked well for my setup, you will likely need to tinker with it. I would suggest starting with a 1/16 inch drill bit for the air hole in the End-Cap. If you find the water level in the chamber fluctuates quickly then the standpipe needs to suck in more air. Try a 5/64 inch drill bit to make the hole slightly larger — increasing the size if needed. Do not be surprised if you need to go as large as ¼ inch with the hole size. The lower the flow rate between display tank and sump the larger the hole size needed.

The hole on the top of the standpipe (in the End-Cap) is very important. Without the hole, a full siphon will be created and water will be sucked out of the overflow chamber too fast. The water level will drop below the intake and you will get a terrible air sucking noise. If you drill a hole and the water level still drops to far (making a sucking noise) then the hole is to small. Just make it slightly larger (see above) and the water level will raise. If you make the hole to large then the water level will be to high. (It should not overflow the tank as it will not get that high, but keep an eye on it). If the water level is too high you may need to replace the end-cap (they are cheap). Many people report that it is easier to tune with several smaller holes than a single larger hole.

 

[BiGPiNK]

Another trick i used on my durso is to drill a couple of holes in the drain pipe right above the waterline in the sump, that way any air pockets which get pushed down the drain with the water have somewhere to vent out rather than trying to push their way all the way along, but do what everybody else says first and increase the size of the airhole on top, you are essentially looking for the sweet spot where the drain is sucking in roughly equal quantities of both air and water so it doesn't create any back pressure along the lines.

 

[Chaz D]

Those Maggie Mufflers look pretty cool if you don't want to go the DIY route.

 

[Pure Magic]

I think you're supposed to insert airline tubing into the hole and move it up and down until the durso becomes quiet.

Thank you Fred for the tip. This did the trick. I tried different sizes and 3 1/2" was the magic size. Any longer and my tank would start to back up.

 

[Pure Magic]

Check this out How to Silence Quiet Your Overflow Box ( Stockman Standpipe ) - YouTube about a third into the video he sticks a tubeline with a small regulator that should help you.

Also... you made the hole bigger to increase the flow? Insert from the Durso page itself says bigger hole is lower flow.... Air Hole & Water Level - Page 3


Standpipe Air Hole

A very small, as small as I could make it (thickness of a toothpick), hole is drilled in the top of the End-Cap fitting. This allows some air to enter into the standpipe. This size air hole worked well for my setup, you will likely need to tinker with it. I would suggest starting with a 1/16 inch drill bit for the air hole in the End-Cap. If you find the water level in the chamber fluctuates quickly then the standpipe needs to suck in more air. Try a 5/64 inch drill bit to make the hole slightly larger — increasing the size if needed. Do not be surprised if you need to go as large as ¼ inch with the hole size. The lower the flow rate between display tank and sump the larger the hole size needed.

The hole on the top of the standpipe (in the End-Cap) is very important. Without the hole, a full siphon will be created and water will be sucked out of the overflow chamber too fast. The water level will drop below the intake and you will get a terrible air sucking noise. If you drill a hole and the water level still drops to far (making a sucking noise) then the hole is to small. Just make it slightly larger (see above) and the water level will raise. If you make the hole to large then the water level will be to high. (It should not overflow the tank as it will not get that high, but keep an eye on it). If the water level is too high you may need to replace the end-cap (they are cheap). Many people report that it is easier to tune with several smaller holes than a single larger hole.

I would have to disagree with this post for what I am doing. My pump is too strong but I like the high flow for my SPS. More GPH the better. I can already tell the difference with polyp extension. Too small of a hole was creating a static head. Must have been too big of a bubble clogging the drain. I tried to stop and restart the pump several times as I made the hole in my durso bigger. However, once the static head/ bubble was not created it started sounding like a toliet was (flushing constantly) but the flow was awesome!

Fred G's trick was it. However, thank you for posting.

Another trick i used on my durso is to drill a couple of holes in the drain pipe right above the waterline in the sump, that way any air pockets which get pushed down the drain with the water have somewhere to vent out rather than trying to push their way all the way along, but do what everybody else says first and increase the size of the airhole on top, you are essentially looking for the sweet spot where the drain is sucking in roughly equal quantities of both air and water so it doesn't create any back pressure along the lines.

I will get a valve for this and try it. Thank you BigPink.

Those Maggie Mufflers look pretty cool if you don't want to go the DIY route.

Will keep this in mind for my FOWLR 280+ gallon tank I am planning on building. Thank you for posting Chaz.