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Noob question im sure... (1 Viewer)

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Hes talking about getting rid of the HoB and just drill the tank and use bulkheads and plumbing to run water to the sump and have a return.
 
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yep ive had the same questions all answered here too!!! you can take your tank somewhere like local fish stores or "LFS" and get a hole drilled and then make a box or corner overflow box there are links all over marsh on the best place for an overflow
 
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gware

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lol "laughing out loud" ha I understand computer lingo just not fish lingo yet ;)


Thanks for the links, will update with a new picture of the attempt of what I have going on here lol.
 
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gware

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Update:

I have water and sand in. Have sump running and water draining fine. Now I need equipment help really bad. Priorities first minus someone is buying me an Aqualife T5 48" with the LED moon lighting. Is that good? Don't have a list of the sps or lps I want to grow.

All advice on the order of what I should get would be excellent.

Also the head from the sump sprays some serious distance and seems kind of violent... Can I replace that head? Other options?

Is everything I have set up in proper order so far?

Thanks, I included new pictures.

img0488rh.jpg

img0489s.jpg

img0490pk.jpg

img0487hq.jpg
 

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Original author requested that I offer my advice.

Looks like you've gotten the overflow box situation handled well.

Looks like you understand the concept of getting water from the sump back to the display.

the feirce spraying directional utube(you called it a head) is spraying out very fast & heavy because you are probably using clear plastic semi flexible tubing instead of PVC piping.

In YOUR situation: this is a good thing.

Try to point that directional head in an opposite direction of your overflow box. The last thing you want is the water that JUST came from the sump to be directly returned back TO the sump. You want the new water(water that's been through a skimmer & other such equipment commonly found in your sump) to have the chance to displace the water in your display that hasn't yet taken the path of cleansing yet.

Also try and remember, just because saltwater has fallen down into the sump doesn't mean it touched the skimmer or touched any cheato. We put those things down I'm our sumps to INCREASE the chance of water around it to be cleaned.

There are some people who might argue the following point.

The equipment we buy and use (skimmers, phosban reactors, denitrators, uv sterilizers, ozonators, calcium reactors etc) are only there to help keep the chore of water changes down to a minimum.

Water changes, by most reef keepers, continue to be the ultimate source and reason why our livestock thrives. These pieces of equipment merely make our water changes less frequent by working hard to HELP remove some of the nasties that build up in our systems.

In gods beautiful ocean, this process occurs naturally in that nitrates, nitrites & ammonia are either removed by current from nearby waves or transformed into something else entirely. Calcium is added from acidic low oxygen conditions deep within sand beds and also from dead organisms which contain bones(calcium based).

In our tiny closed systems, we are basically farming. We add the food, we add the calcium, we add the phosphates & nitrates.

Forget about the idea of SPS(small polyp stony) corals for now. Spend this new experience of yours gathering the family or simplyjust yourself and looking for new developments in the tank. Buy some fully established live rock and watch for what comes out of it 2 hours after the lights go off.

Get yourself some mushrooms & zoanthids. Watch them thrive or die. Start slow and soak it all in. Spend time getting to know your equipment. Ask TONS of questions here in the forums. (that's what they are here for)

Take pictures of everything. We all enjoy those! Learn about macro photography.

1. Get some rock.
2. Get some softy corals
3. Go crazy watching it all & posting your findings.

We'll all be along for the ride - I promise!
 
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gware

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So which soft corals are the most vibrant in color?

Going with your suggestion on the bulbs and will hopefully have rock soon as I just got a new job.

Thanks always for the help!
 

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gware said:
So which soft corals are the most vibrant in color?

That's the fun part, finding them.

Visit: Fishland(they use heavy actinic lighting to make corals look fantastic. but then again, that's what you'll be doing anyway), Fish Gallery(a little more expensive, but good selection), City Pets(they have a $5 frag tank that used to be very popular), T & T Fish(amazing colors in their corals), Bay Area Aquarium(another good color store), Global Leader Aquatics(simply amazing looking corals - this guy knows his stuff).

Or better still: attend the next public frag swap (you'll see these posted in the General Reefkeeping forum) and get stuff dirt cheap.

Or even better still: look at the pictures on HERE of corals you like and make deals with their owners to come pick them up at decent prices!

As far as WHICH corals end up being the best in color. Well that's gonna depend heavily upon what kind of light history the coral has had, it's geographic location in the world and how long it's been alive. Some corals have been known to expel their inner algae in favor of another set.

Ease of care without compromising color tend to lean heavily towards: mushrooms, ricordia mushrooms, zoanthids, frogspawn & hammer corals, pulsing xenia coral, toadstool leather corals, brain corals, candy cane corals

Going with your suggestion on the bulbs and will hopefully have rock soon as I just got a new job.

Thanks always for the help!

Anytime.

Gware is referring to our txt msg conversation we had early that day. I recommended that for his 4bulb T5 setup, he invest in 3 pure actinic bulbs and 1 50/50 bulb for white balance.
 
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