Project "mo' flo'" (1 Viewer)

[malira]

In short the issue I have is my return plumbing is vinyl tubing. I seems to keep shrinking, with use of saltwater, thus cutting off the flow.

I have a DC pump that can put out up to 1500 gph at 4 ft head pressure, but with 3/4 inch tubing the max output is just under 700 gph. The problem is the vinyl tubing shrinks to under 5/8 over time, 6 months, so I am now getting under 400 gph in a 90 gallon DT with an added 35 gallons in the sump.

I wanted to increase the return to at least the original 3/4 but increase if I could. I found out that the overflow bulkheads can increase to 1 1/4 inches. So I will be increasing both return and drain to 1 1/4". This should give me more than enough flow. I will be using Spa Flex (flexible PVC) to solve the shrinking problem. I will also put a ball valve to help control the flow amount. I also plan on diverting a little flow back into the sump to agitate the dead spots in the sump.

If my calculations are correct this will increase my flow up to 1100 gph, more than enough. I will not need that much turnover. Actually that would be way too much turnover, but I like the ability to have options.

Pics will follow when I start

Steps
Cut Access. (Hard Part)
Clean out overflow.
Dismantle drain and return.
Change bulkheads.
Run and form SpaFlex. (Very Hard part)
Plumb the ball valves, splitter and homemade spray bar.
Adjust settings.
Pour Bourbon & Coke and enjoy.

Let me know if I missed anything?

 

[BrAin]

Spaflex can be heated and bent if necessary. I put the ends in hot water to fit barb fittings easier and then hose clamp. Also, cheap ball valves get sticky and are hard to make fine adjustments.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[Clownfish Chris]

I glued spa flex just like regular PVC. I also only used it for curves to replace abrupt angles and make connections smoothly. Im sure you know, avoid horizontal runs and abrupt angles. Otherwise, straight rigid pipe is not a bad thing.

 

[malira]

Spaflex can be heated and bent if necessary. I put the ends in hot water to fit barb fittings easier and then hose clamp. Also, cheap ball valves get sticky and are hard to make fine adjustments.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

The issue with my lines are the run parallel to the bottom of the tank and into the closet behind and to the side. I will probably have to put it together in sections. I plan on only 1 90° on the return and 2 on the drain. Every thing else is a curve or a gentle turn.

Who makes good ball valves?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[Kingb4c0]

The issue with my lines are the run parallel to the bottom of the tank and into the closet behind and to the side. I will probably have to put it together in sections. I plan on only 1 90° on the return and 2 on the drain. Every thing else is a curve or a gentle turn.

Who makes good ball valves?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Spears ... but not Britney

 

[BrAin]

I used gate valves due to price but BRS has some good ball valves made by Cepex.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[malira]

I glued spa flex just like regular PVC. I also only used it for curves to replace abrupt angles and make connections smoothly. Im sure you know, avoid horizontal runs and abrupt angles. Otherwise, straight rigid pipe is not a bad thing.

I shouldn't have said parallel, it has a 4 inch drop in the run at the bottom of the tank. Then it turns into the closet and drops another 6 to 7 inch in a 2 foot run into the sump.

The reason I'm using spaflex is because it's easier to plumb where I need to get to and not using 90's.
It's cheeper to buy 25 ftof spa flex than 5 or 6 and hardline.

 

[flipside]

Just be cautious of your flow through the sump due to your upgrade. Sumps with too high of flow are virtually useless. I mean... Some people like that! Don't get me wrong. It's just more effective in nutrient absorption of the flow is slower. IMO, of course.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[malira]

Just be cautious of your flow through the sump due to your upgrade. Sumps with too high of flow are virtually useless. I mean... Some people like that! Don't get me wrong. It's just more effective in nutrient absorption of the flow is slower. IMO, of course.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I totally agree. My target flow is around 650 to 700 gph. I'll let my skimmer dictate my flow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[flipside]

Cool. Just as long as you have a good feeling about it. If you see too much algae in the DT after awhile, at least you'll have the option to dial your flow back a little... If you like. I have my flow set between 300-400gph through the sump. I used a 5g bucket and some tubing to make sure (time how long it took to fill up the bucket, then some simple math). I run some decent mechanical filtration, and contact time is essential with it, as well as any biological filtration you may have. The key is contact time, but every tank is different. What you plan to do makes total sense to me... Just for the simple fact that you'll have more options in dialing in your flow-thru (sump).

Often overlooked.

I'm the offroading world we have this saying, that I believe applies here. 'Low, slow, and in control'

Low gph
Slow flow
Control your algae

Low and slow seem interchangeable. LOL

Sorry... I'm ranting.... Good luck with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[malira]

Cool. Just as long as you have a good feeling about it. If you see too much algae in the DT after awhile, at least you'll have the option to dial your flow back a little... If you like. I have my flow set between 300-400gph through the sump. I used a 5g bucket and some tubing to make sure (time how long it took to fill up the bucket, then some simple math). I run some decent mechanical filtration, and contact time is essential with it, as well as any biological filtration you may have. The key is contact time, but every tank is different. What you plan to do makes total sense to me... Just for the simple fact that you'll have more options in dialing in your flow-thru (sump).

Often overlooked.

I'm the offroading world we have this saying, that I believe applies here. 'Low, slow, and in control'

Low gph
Slow flow
Control your algae

Low and slow seem interchangeable. LOL

Sorry... I'm ranting.... Good luck with it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I appreciate the perspective. I didn't even think about algae and flow. It's something to think about.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[malira]

Plumbing questions

I plan on using a T connector to divert some of the return flow back into the sump. I will glue this connector in. I also plan on putting ball joints on the two return lines (1 to the tank and 1 to the sump).

Question - Should I glue the ball valves in or should I glue threaded ends to the line and screw the ball valves in? I'm thinking of screwing at least the sump line in so I can have some control over the angle of the spray to the sump.

 

[billw]

I plan on using a T connector to divert some of the return flow back into the sump. I will glue this connector in. I also plan on putting ball joints on the two return lines (1 to the tank and 1 to the sump).

Question - Should I glue the ball valves in or should I glue threaded ends to the line and screw the ball valves in? I'm thinking of screwing at least the sump line in so I can have some control over the angle of the spray to the sump.

How about true union ball valves?

 

[malira]

How about true union ball valves?

I had to look up what you were talking about but I was unknowing going to use them. Specifically Cepex valves.

My question is should i use the slip fit or the threaded?

 

[billw]

I had to look up what you were talking about but I was unknowing going to use them. Specifically Cepex valves.

My question is should i use the slip fit or the threaded?

Ah, sorry for misinterpreting. I always prefer to use glued joints, less chance of leaks, but that's just my penny and a half (my plumbing skills aren't worth 2 cents ). It would be worthwhile to collect other opinions.

 

[ReefMaster32787]

Also consider how much you restrict your pump. To much and it might start vibrating and making funny sounds...obviously can't be good. I learned from experience decided to use my old quiet one 4000 on my modded 40-45 gallon bio cube with 3 foot of head.

 

[malira]

Also consider how much you restrict your pump. To much and it might start vibrating and making funny sounds...obviously can't be good. I learned from experience decided to use my old quiet one 4000 on my modded 40-45 gallon bio cube with 3 foot of head.

I have a DC pump that has 10 speeds. The valves are going to be the safety catch. In case the pump malfunctions. Right now the pump is on 10 and putting out less than half of its capabilities with a 3/4 inch bulkhead and it's very quiet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[BrAin]

Don't forget the union's so you can take it all apart when necessary. Those Cepex have union's built in.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[malira]

Don't forget the union's so you can take it all apart when necessary. Those Cepex have union's built in.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Do you you mean union joints instead of plain slip couplers?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[BrAin]

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk