RO/DI set up (1 Viewer)

[jeremy]

I have had my RO/DI set up for a long time now. I bought it from a member here. I have changed filters in it before. I now have a TDS meter. I tested my water and it was high (30ppm). This past week I bought new sediment filter, carbon filter, and color changing DI resin. This was the first time I bought the color changing resin. After running only about 10 - 15 gallons my resin has already turned brown and the water coming out tested at 22ppm now. I tested the water coming from the membrane and it's at 50ppm so I know I need to replace it. After looking at my set up I think I have had the order of the stages wrong all this time. My current set up enters the sediment filter, then goes to the carbon filter, then to the DI resin, then through the RO membrane, from the RO membrane to my storage container. My question is... " is this the correct order"?? This is how it was set up when I bought it and I am now thinking it was wrong. Any help is appreciated!!

 

[tektite]

No, wow you must have been burning through the DI! The correct order is sediment, carbon, membrane, DI. The DI just polishes off the final TDS the membrane misses.

 

[jeremy]

Ok that's what I figured... Next question what's the proper inlet and exit for the DI canister?? Does it matter which side I hook up as the exit?? Reason I ask is I was messing with the configuration earlier and when I hook it up the water doesn't fill the canister all the way but seems to still go through the resin and make water.

 

[tektite]

The canister's ports should be marked IN and OUT somewhere. There is a difference, so when you find the markings you'll be good. The DI canister will often not be fully filled with water, that's perfectly normal.

 

[jeremy]

Ok... I guess I didn't pay close enough attention to that.... Thanks so much for the help!!!!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

When you have the DI ports plumbed correctly the water will come in the DI housing, dribble down betweeen the DI cartridge and the housing wall, and then exit by entering the bottom of the DI cartridge and exiting out the top.

You're going to have to do a little replumbing to change the order of water flow on your system. You'll need two new fittings:
1/4" mnpt x 1/4" qc

One will get screwed into the carbon block "out" port, and one will get screwed into the DI housing "in" port.

But before you tackle this, make sure you don't have chloramines in your water. If you do, then use two carbon stages, and get a stand alone housing for your DI cartrige. Feel free to give us a call if you need help thinking through all this.

We have some instructions already put together tho help people retrofit ebay systems - this might help in your case too.

Russ

 

[Mark L.]

Also as a side note you can "burp" you DI canister to get rid of the air in it. While the unit is running and making water put the canister wrench on the DI housing. Give it a very slight turn to open it. Watch the water rise in the housing. Once it reaches the top by the threads twist it closed to seal. Presto!No more air.

 

[TiAg]

When you have the DI ports plumbed correctly the water will come in the DI housing, dribble down betweeen the DI cartridge and the housing wall, and then exit by entering the bottom of the DI cartridge and exiting out the top.

You're going to have to do a little replumbing to change the order of water flow on your system. You'll need two new fittings:
1/4" mnpt x 1/4" qc

One will get screwed into the carbon block "out" port, and one will get screwed into the DI housing "in" port.

But before you tackle this, make sure you don't have chloramines in your water. If you do, then use two carbon stages, and get a stand alone housing for your DI cartrige. Feel free to give us a call if you need help thinking through all this.

We have some instructions already put together tho help people retrofit ebay systems - this might help in your case too.

Russ

Listen to this guy he knows his RODI