I set up my bio pellets about 7 months ago because I wanted to see if it would help the overall production of the tank. I have not really seen any improvments and infact probably less over all growth of my corals? If I turn off the bio pellets will it throw everything else off like my Cal and Alk?
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Should I take my bio pellets off line? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dayton
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No, but you may experience a cyano and/or diatom bloom. The true way to tell if it's working is to check your phosphates and nitrates. I use mine to get my parameters as low as possible, then the GFO sweeps up the remaining phosphates. Been working well for me and coral growth has been great.
What kind of corals do you have? If mostly SPS, you should see better overall health of the coral (coloration, PE, etc...). I have. SPS "hate" phosphates which was my primary concern when onlining my reactor. My corals have colored up nicely since going with a bp reactor, and my phosphates and nitrates are finally in-check. I guess it could be tank maturity, as well... who knows...
What kind of corals do you have? If mostly SPS, you should see better overall health of the coral (coloration, PE, etc...). I have. SPS "hate" phosphates which was my primary concern when onlining my reactor. My corals have colored up nicely since going with a bp reactor, and my phosphates and nitrates are finally in-check. I guess it could be tank maturity, as well... who knows...
I dont 100% agree with that statement flipside. I saw my best growth in my sps when I kept phos between .02 and .04. All living organisms chemically need Phosphate to survive. It is a basic building block in organic chemistry. Now do you need to keep them low yes, if they get too high then you will definitely see a negative effect on corals, and if they are zero the same. Bacteria break down nitrogen faster in the aquarium then they do phosphate hince why some people still run gfo to remove the remaining phosphate from the tank. Since all that the pellets are doing is providing a carbon source and breeding ground for bacteria cultures.
Well, I guess we can agree to disagree, then. I'm more into the corals coloration than I am the growth. When I first installed my bio pellet reactor I monitored my phosphates and nitrates daily. When the phosphates got to 0, my colors came back FAST! Of course, I can't sustain a 0 phosphate reading due to the way my tanks are setup, but I aim for it.
Bottom line, if you yank the reactor quickly, you may experience some stuff that you may not like. Maybe offline it slowly by removing a small amount of pellets at a time? Not really sure...
I'm more into the corals coloration than I am the growth. When I first installed my bio pellet reactor I monitored my phosphates and nitrates daily. When the phosphates got to 0, my colors came back FAST! Of course, I can't sustain a 0 phosphate reading due to the way my tanks are setup, but I aim for it.Bottom line, if you yank the reactor quickly, you may experience some stuff that you may not like. Maybe offline it slowly by removing a small amount of pellets at a time? Not really sure...
My best coloration was in the .02 range also. Any lower the colors would start to get pastelly and pale. But every tank is different. But in this hobby everything good happens over time, not quickly. I do agree with making any major changes slowly.
I do have low phosphates however I have noticed everything is growing but I don't have to awesome Polyp extension on my milli's. Its weird, I have great PE on some acros and the others are next to nothing but still growing? This makes me know something is off but I cant find what it is. I had dennis check my water last week and my mag was a little low (1200) and I have since corrected that. Everything else he said was "fine", now I do have the bio pellets running and phosphate guard running. To much? My alk is stable at 10, im not sure where calcium is. Any ideas on why the PE wouldn't be there?
madehtsobi
Guest
Interesting....
I've been running bio and rox and gfo for about week or so now and my phos is still like at around .14...
Nitrate is around 15-20ppm as well.
Some milli and sps are ok while some just don't do well.
Don't know what else to do..
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I've been running bio and rox and gfo for about week or so now and my phos is still like at around .14...
Nitrate is around 15-20ppm as well.
Some milli and sps are ok while some just don't do well.
Don't know what else to do..
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It takes longer than a week, man. Took my tank 4 weeks then the phosphates and nitrates plummeted! Still had around a .07 phosphate reading around week 6, so I started the gfo regime to bring it down. I was only at .00 for a couple/few weeks, thereafter.
They've worked really well for me so far...
Jason-very true, bro. Very true.
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They've worked really well for me so far...
Jason-very true, bro. Very true.
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madehtsobi
Guest
Yeh I know I'm just impatient! Lol
LOL! Well, this hobby will teach you that.
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madehtsobi
Guest
Yep!! =)
Just hope these pellets work!
Just hope these pellets work!
rlpardue
Supporting Member
I don't like changing things if I don't have to - I would suggest keeping the biopellets online, if only because they "may" be contributing to lower nutrient levels and you don't know it. Biopellets are cheap, right? The possible downsides to taking them offline are many; the downsides of keeping them are few.
I'm currently rejoicing in my new tank's low nutrient levels although I'm sure that I'll have to worry about nitrates eventually.
One thing that stood out to me is that your alk is at 10. That *may* be on the high side if you're dosing an organic carbon source like bio-pellets, but if your corals aren't stripping/bleaching then I wouldn't change it.
I'm currently rejoicing in my new tank's low nutrient levels although I'm sure that I'll have to worry about nitrates eventually.
One thing that stood out to me is that your alk is at 10. That *may* be on the high side if you're dosing an organic carbon source like bio-pellets, but if your corals aren't stripping/bleaching then I wouldn't change it.
dKH of 10 isn't that bad, but 8-9 is what he should be aiming for, for sure. Yes, biopellets and the reactor are cheap, and they last a long time, bro.
You'll never have want to run a tank at 0.00 phosphates, IMO. It's sort-of like a lot of ULNS that we all read about or have seen. It's not hard to conclude (well, again, IMO) that you're starving your corals. I feed cyclops 2 times a week, and at night when PE is at its best (in my tank). If you see extensive PE during lights on (with most corals, anyway) it could mean that your corals are starving and want something to eat. That's where AV Fuel, Cyclops, etc... come into play. Guess what? When you feed your tank and inhabitants, you are adding phosphates. No way around that one... But, I kind-of think that's a whole different discussion. Best thing to do is research your eyes out!
But, back onto the OP's question, I think it's fair to say that the general consensus here is that if you really want to offline the biopellets, do it slowly. Definitely increase the amount of times you test when you do it, too. You may notice a steady increase in phosphates... theoretically.
You'll never have want to run a tank at 0.00 phosphates, IMO. It's sort-of like a lot of ULNS that we all read about or have seen. It's not hard to conclude (well, again, IMO) that you're starving your corals. I feed cyclops 2 times a week, and at night when PE is at its best (in my tank). If you see extensive PE during lights on (with most corals, anyway) it could mean that your corals are starving and want something to eat. That's where AV Fuel, Cyclops, etc... come into play. Guess what? When you feed your tank and inhabitants, you are adding phosphates. No way around that one... But, I kind-of think that's a whole different discussion. Best thing to do is research your eyes out!
But, back onto the OP's question, I think it's fair to say that the general consensus here is that if you really want to offline the biopellets, do it slowly. Definitely increase the amount of times you test when you do it, too. You may notice a steady increase in phosphates... theoretically.
Ok great info and thank you.
To touch on the Alk, about a year ago I ran my tank at 11DKH which is more on the high end BUT everything was encrusting very well and my colors were also very good. However it crashed easily and I lost most of my sps colonies. I ran it at a lower dkh of 9 and things were ok but not really growing that well. I have noticed again as I creep up into the 10DKH im getting better growth but less PE. Less PE in reality means that they are full and not trying to get more food correct?
To touch on the Alk, about a year ago I ran my tank at 11DKH which is more on the high end BUT everything was encrusting very well and my colors were also very good. However it crashed easily and I lost most of my sps colonies. I ran it at a lower dkh of 9 and things were ok but not really growing that well. I have noticed again as I creep up into the 10DKH im getting better growth but less PE. Less PE in reality means that they are full and not trying to get more food correct?
Correct. If the polyps are super "out there," than they normally are, they are starving. If they are "normal" (only you know what this is in your own tank), you are doing well.
However, some corals are just opportunistic gluttons! They really take on a life of their own, after you get to "know them."
I run my tank in the 9-10dKH range as well... I'd rather be slightly high on the alkalinity. Alkalinity is "so" underrated/stated in regards to coral health/growth.
However, some corals are just opportunistic gluttons!
They really take on a life of their own, after you get to "know them."I run my tank in the 9-10dKH range as well... I'd rather be slightly high on the alkalinity. Alkalinity is "so" underrated/stated in regards to coral health/growth.
Im just kinda lost I guess. I have a few of my acros that are fully extended and some (for example my "hairy green milli") that have very little PE. I have noticed my alk fluctuating slightly as I am doing the final dial in from the 8.5 rang on alk up to 10 (I may even bring it back down to 9.5) would this trigger them to not come out?
It shouldn't really be that noticeable to the corals at that range. Especially SPS.
Mille's? Ha! I know you can't be comparing polyp extension on them with you're other SPS! LOL!
There should be a little PE and good natural colors with you're corals. Really can't ask for more with just pellets.
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Mille's? Ha! I know you can't be comparing polyp extension on them with you're other SPS! LOL!
There should be a little PE and good natural colors with you're corals. Really can't ask for more with just pellets.
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