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What’s up with my rodi (1 Viewer)

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As long as the pump is AFTER the prefilter housings, you should be safe cranking it up past 85. I'd check the plumbing on that Vertex to be sure.
 

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Yes with MUD water quality is a little better...TDS of 200-250 ppm but we are City of Pearland (No MUD) so horrible quality TDS in the incoming water ~400s.

OLA same situation, City of Houston so no MUD. Yeah I saw the giant Di Resin filter.


I'm in Fort Bend Mud 50, so far so good hear. OLA installed an insane filter to combat that ammonia issue the rest of the are seems to be facing.
 
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I have not measured incoming tds but post RO it is 7-8ppm.

I pack my own resin.




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Buy a handheld TDS meter off Amazon. If you were close I'd let you barrow mine. You could add a T-fitting and ball valve for easy sample to check when things are getting crazy. Or just grab some water from the tap. :)
 
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I'm in Fort Bend Mud 50, so far so good hear. OLA installed an insane filter to combat that ammonia issue the rest of the are seems to be facing.

You could also buy an extra RO canister and send the incoming through some Brightwell Purit. Apparently it's like carbon on steroids. This would be worth a try to see if it changes the numbers.

 

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Just buy the 3 prong tds meter it’s worth it! I think it was less than $30 BRS

You can monitor
Incoming water
After RO
after DI

9ae4966f8809b509122dce2e97be2db9.jpg
 
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steveb

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I can measure the incoming tds. I’m just not sure of the “value” in that other than determining the true rejection rate of my RO filters.

The RO output tds is typically 8, sometimes it will show 7.

So is the ammonia everyone is talking about showing up after the RO stage?

Is it hurting the RO filter?

I believe cation resin removes ammonia. So is the fix to run a cation resin cartridge before the mixed bed resin?

Could zeolite be used before or after the RO stage to remove ammonia?


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Just buy the 3 prong tds meter it’s worth it! I think it was less than $30 BRS

You can monitor
Incoming water
After RO
after DI

9ae4966f8809b509122dce2e97be2db9.jpg
No legitimate vendor will sell that meter for "less than $30" as the manufacturer specifies a minimum price:

Russ
 

RR-MAN

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No legitimate vendor will sell that meter for "less than $30" as the manufacturer specifies a minimum price:

Russ

Haha good one Russ. I round numbers. How much ro di components we buy it’s hard to remember all prices. [emoji4]
 
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steveb

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Regardless I don't think it addresses my dilemma :1zhelp:

I have now made about another 200g and the 1st resin cartridge is pretty much shot.
 
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Steve - as always... we are available to help any Marsh members troubleshoot - just give us a call when you are in front of the system

Russ
513-312-2343
 
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Thanks Russ. What time are y’all open until? I get off work at 4pm central.


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The high ammonia in the incoming water is destroying di resin-it’s all over Houston.

I have the same issue-just changing the di resin more often


Please correct me if I’m wrong here, but that’s nonsense.. by the time water exits the RO membrane there should be no ammonia at all hitting the di resin. If that is truly the case there is a setup problem.

My guess is with the high output rates and high pressure pumps would be not enough contact time. Either way, ammonia / chloramine issues would be resolved with carbon. Some carbon works better than other, additional cartridges increase contact time and contamination removal.
 
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The ammonia comes from the chloramine.
If the water pH is < 7.2 the ammonia will be the ammonium ion (NH4+) which is rejected by the RO membrane, and acted upon by the cation resin.
As pH increases > 7.2, the ammonia will be more common as ammonium hydroxide (ammonia gas dissolved in water). The dissolved gas is not rejected by the membrane. Because RO removes water hardness (primarily calcium and magnesium), it decreases the pH, so in most cases post RO the ammonia should be in the ammonium ion. You might want to consider going to separate bed resins followed by a mixed bed resin.

Russ
 
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