When to change DI resin? (1 Viewer)

[Cody]

Are you asking if the media will "go bad" in the canister after a while even if it's not exhausted?
(I don't know the answer, but this is a good question for those of us who maybe don't use our RODI as frequently)

That’s exactly what I’m asking.

 

[Reefahholic]

My middle canister (Anion) is exhausting first. Not sure why. Seems like the first Cation stage would go first.

 

[Cody]

My middle canister (Anion) is exhausting first. Not sure why. Seems like the first Cation stage would go first.

Not to talk crap but do you have a tank? Notoriously, you set them up then break them down quickly so I never know where you’re at on the phase.

 

[Reefahholic]

Not to talk crap but do you have a tank? Notoriously, you set them up then break them down quickly so I never know where you’re at on the phase.

I don’t have a tank. Sold it all. Just keep the RODI on the wall for good vibes.

 

[foos]

2 years and I think that is the 7th anion (middle) while the others are original.

 

[Reefahholic]

2 years and I think that is the 7th anion (middle) while the others are original.

Any idea why the Anion is the first to go?

 

[Seaworthy Aquatics]

Any idea why the Anion is the first to go?

This is because of a few reasons. One being our water treatment systems around here use lots of chloramine, which is removed by anion resin. We also tend to have a lot of nitrates and phosphates on and off which is also removed by it. Another big reason is the nature of DI resins. The cation resin swaps all incoming positively charged ions for H+. An identical number of OH- are then released by the anion bed, which combine to form H2O, so the cation resin burns through the anion resin even if there isn't other things to remove. Chloramine seems to be the biggest killer though. We have so much that the resin beds don't always fully remove it. I've considered adding additional carbon chambers before and after the resin chambers because of this. You can occasionally smell it in the finished product water, like a swimming pool, it's so bad.

 

[soymilk]

I heard dissolved co2 burns thru anion resin as well. I don't know enough to refute this.

i want to say a brand new full anion is lasting me about 500-700 gallons. How much are yall getting?

TDS IN = 560
After RO = 5
After Cation = 11
After Anion = 0
After mixed bed = 0

are yall getting about this?

 

[foos]

I'm like a block from a treatment plant so could be chloramine. Mud7 if anyone cares enough to call and get details from them.

 

[Erin]

Chloramine seems to be the biggest killer though. We have so much that the resin beds don't always fully remove it. I've considered adding additional carbon chambers before and after the resin chambers because of this. You can occasionally smell it in the finished product water, like a swimming pool, it's so bad.

Are you ONLY running DI and not RO? It's my understanding that chlorine damages RO membranes (as will chloramine which is chlorine plus ammonia). The general advice for RO is to have enough carbon ahead of the membrane to completely remove chlorine... the DI resin shouldn't have to remove any.

 

[Team Turtle]

That’s exactly what I’m asking.

I make 80 gallons of water every few weeks. Then my system sits idel. I run 2 RO membranes and 2 mixed beds. My tds coming from RO is 7 on average. I also right the dates on painters tape when i replace anything on system. My 1st DI usually burns up and i replace after 2 months. Longest i have let it sit and seen it start to deplete without being used was 2 1/2 weeks.

 

[Seaworthy Aquatics]

Are you ONLY running DI and not RO? It's my understanding that chlorine damages RO membranes (as will chloramine which is chlorine plus ammonia). The general advice for RO is to have enough carbon ahead of the membrane to completely remove chlorine... the DI resin shouldn't have to remove any.

I run an 8 stage RODI with two carbon blocks before the membrane. It should only damage the membrane when the ph of your tap water is 9 or higher, which ours is usually in the 7s, when the membrane swells. It depends on the types of chloramines, but many are too small and pass through the pores of RO membranes before they can damage it. Free chlorine will definitely hurt the membrane though either way and yes should be removed by the carbon ahead of time. Carbon is not as good at removing chloramines because of the bond between chlorine and ammonia. Good, fine carbon will break some of the bonds and remove the chlorine before hand but not all of it. Even good carbon will stop breaking chloramine bonds after about 2000 gallons. Then your DI resin will need to remove the excess ammonia created by breaking the bonds and more of the chloramines. Randy Holmes wrote an article about it and basically no system will fully remove chloramines, just remove most of it if you're lucky.

 

[Seaworthy Aquatics]

I heard dissolved co2 burns thru anion resin as well. I don't know enough to refute this.

i want to say a brand new full anion is lasting me about 500-700 gallons. How much are yall getting?

TDS IN = 560
After RO = 5
After Cation = 11
After Anion = 0
After mixed bed = 0

are yall getting about this?

This sounds about right.

 

[soymilk]

I'm like a block from a treatment plant so could be chloramine. Mud7 if anyone cares enough to call and get details from them.

https://www.wdmtexas.com/wp-content/uploads/WestHCMUD7_2021.pdf

 

[Cody]

So here's what I'm thinking so far. The board would be 24" wide and 48" tall. This is just the front part that would attach to a back part. The front part will be on hinges on one side so you can open it up and see inside the little box that I'm making. Every chamber will have 90 degree elbows going back behind the main board, where the birds nest of tubes will be hidden. The lip of the front board will have blue LEDs to backlight it and make it look like it's floating. When the booster pump is turned on, aka making water, a red string will kick on too to turn the light purple. Not sure how I want to do the back bracket yet though.

The TDS meters will all be triple meters and measure the TDS as it leaves every stage.

On a side not, they make stainless steel canister to add to an RO unit, which it would be amazing looking to replace them all with considering you don't really need to see inside to begin with. However, they're about $80-90 a pop, and at six chambers, that wouldn't be cheap.

 

[Illusiveman]

So here's what I'm thinking so far. The board would be 24" wide and 48" tall. This is just the front part that would attach to a back part. The front part will be on hinges on one side so you can open it up and see inside the little box that I'm making. Every chamber will have 90 degree elbows going back behind the main board, where the birds nest of tubes will be hidden. The lip of the front board will have blue LEDs to backlight it and make it look like it's floating. When the booster pump is turned on, aka making water, a red string will kick on too to turn the light purple. Not sure how I want to do the back bracket yet though.

The TDS meters will all be triple meters and measure the TDS as it leaves every stage.

On a side not, they make stainless steel canister to add to an RO unit, which it would be amazing looking to replace them all with considering you don't really need to see inside to begin with. However, they're about $80-90 a pop, and at six chambers, that wouldn't be cheap.

I'm not sure the order of your plumbing, but I would assume you are going to have the Anion before the Cation. I think its best to have the Cation before the Anion. It's something to do with the ion exchanging.

 

[soymilk]

I assume it’s gonna be plumbed correctly cation to anion but just having the anion on the far left makes it easier to swap out.

Looks better than my setup lol

 

[Illusiveman]

I assume it’s gonna be plumbed correctly cation to anion but just having the anion on the far left makes it easier to swap out.

Looks better than my setup lol

Yea, just like reading, top to bottom, left to right. I hope Cody can read .

 

[Cody]

I'm not sure the order of your plumbing, but I would assume you are going to have the Anion before the Cation. I think its best to have the Cation before the Anion. It's something to do with the ion exchanging.

Yeah I wasn't paying attention to the order. Whichever came to mind first went first on the labeling. I could always switch them up on the back end with how it's plumbed, like @soymilk said.

 

[Reefahholic]

This is because of a few reasons. One being our water treatment systems around here use lots of chloramine, which is removed by anion resin. We also tend to have a lot of nitrates and phosphates on and off which is also removed by it. Another big reason is the nature of DI resins. The cation resin swaps all incoming positively charged ions for H+. An identical number of OH- are then released by the anion bed, which combine to form H2O, so the cation resin burns through the anion resin even if there isn't other things to remove. Chloramine seems to be the biggest killer though. We have so much that the resin beds don't always fully remove it. I've considered adding additional carbon chambers before and after the resin chambers because of this. You can occasionally smell it in the finished product water, like a swimming pool, it's so bad.

Well that makes perfect sense. I’m fixing to test Chlorine and add a few carbon stages as preventative. My chlorine test got delivered today, but apparently not to me. Lol.