Gents,
yes this "zero Nitrates and zero Phosphates believe" is the first thing that DIESEL taught me back few years ago, to keep my hands OFF from ;-)
Basically the fear of people to have a huge algae outbreak when Po4 is detectable is part of the reason why so many still shoot for zero levels of nutrients.
Currently #1 problem in many reef tank issues I got consulted with.
Almost every Reefer coming to me asking these days about why their tank look so badly, it's related to Po4 and No3..................
Keep in mind to maintain a minimum of those nutrients!
Use a Hanna ULR Phosporus checker, since this guy will provide you the required ultra low range tolerance needed ;-)
Keep the checker and glasses always "dry and cleaned under tapwater" with the tank water in it, prior putting it into the Checker!
Make sure the 3 minute countdown is activated and you should be set !!!
To convert phosphorus ppb, to phosphate ppm, you multiply the measured ppb by 3.066 and then as the phosphorus is in ppb divide it by 1000.
The multiplication factor of 3.0061 is the ratio between the different molecular masses of PO4 and P. (94.971Da and 30.974Da = 3.0661)
When setting up your nitrates and phosphates, make sure you are in the Redfield ratio, which provides the lowest risk of algae issues.
Changes from outside to the ideal balance will take about 1-2 weeks until full in effect, so be patient.
A full grown sand bed full of diatoms to a white bed, took me multiple times up to 4 weeks with slow progress.
Here is an old thread with some instructions to the Nitrate dosing solution which comes quite handy:
http://www.marsh-reef.org/marine-and-reef-general-discussion/48808-no3.html
-Andre
